Engine Removal proceedure

RoyLuke

Well-known member
Apr 18, 2007
261
11
Hi All:
This time I threw a rod in my Discover 1. Ruined the lower block but I have another one.

I am pulling out the engine. There are bolts around the edge of the flywheel but I seem to remember those are not the ones that release it from the torque converter.
There are 4 recessed bolts closer to the crankshaft. I seem to remember those are the ones that release the converter.
Do I need to remove the outer bolts and/or the 4 inner bolts?

I should remember because this is the fourth engine change. Whew !!!!

TNX
Roy
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
Thanks a bunch.
To R&R this engine is a major pain in the neck.
Roy
Careful. Your truck is not the one pictured in that post. That's a Bosch engine in a Disco2. Your correct about the 4 bolts nearer the center are the ones you need to remove. Once those bolts are out push the converter into the trans and make sure it doesn't come out of the pump.
 
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RoyLuke

Well-known member
Apr 18, 2007
261
11
Careful. Your truck is not the one pictured in that post. That's a Bosch engine in a Disco2. Your correct about the 4 bolts nearer the center are the ones you need to remove. Once those bolts are out push the converter into the trans and make sure it doesn't come out of the pump.

Those bolts are really hard to get to. They are 13mm but getting a wench on it is awkward. The oil pan is in the way.
The Manual I have for my Disco 1 says the bolts are accessible thru the round opening at the bottom of the bell housing. Tomorrow I am going to do some closer looking.
BTW, when it thew the rod, it really did some damage to the lower block. I have aluminium fragments everywhere.
thanks a bunch
Roy
 

Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
1,402
212
52
St. Louis
Those bolts are really hard to get to. They are 13mm but getting a wench on it is awkward. The oil pan is in the way.
The Manual I have for my Disco 1 says the bolts are accessible thru the round opening at the bottom of the bell housing. Tomorrow I am going to do some closer looking.
BTW, when it thew the rod, it really did some damage to the lower block. I have aluminium fragments everywhere.
thanks a bunch
Roy
It’s tight but a regular 3/8 socket works great. And for best access, you’ll want to orient the bolts to roughly the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock position.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
I always take them out after the pan is off. I know it's extra work if your not planning on pulling it, but those tabs your working close to are the reluctor your crank sensor . With the pan off you can get an air ratchet and a semi deep socket on them no problem.
 

RoyLuke

Well-known member
Apr 18, 2007
261
11
Finally got the bolts out. It fought me all the way.
There is a huge amount of damage to this engine. The Rod that broke was the one most aft. There is even damage to the flywheel and oil pan. There are chunks of engine crankcase falling as I am trying to get it ready for removal.
I once ran into a woman at the Petrol stand who had a Disco 2 and she had the engine and Tany swapped out with a Chevy. That may end up as an option.
 

RoyLuke

Well-known member
Apr 18, 2007
261
11
As you can see, the rod punctured both sides of the engine block. Whew !!!!!!
it also damaged the flywheel and oil pan.
 

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RoyLuke

Well-known member
Apr 18, 2007
261
11
Was there any warning before it happened?
Negative. I was only going about 40mph when it gave a series of "thuds" and shut off. Coasted into a petrol stand and there was oil leaking but not all of the oil (it turns out that was a bad sign).
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
Finally got the bolts out. It fought me all the way.
There is a huge amount of damage to this engine. The Rod that broke was the one most aft. There is even damage to the flywheel and oil pan. There are chunks of engine crankcase falling as I am trying to get it ready for removal.
I once ran into a woman at the Petrol stand who had a Disco 2 and she had the engine and Tany swapped out with a Chevy. That may end up as an option.
A few people have installed Chevy six with adaptor plate into Defenders. Gentleman is usually on NAS-ROW site. I’ll look it up and post it for you.
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
thank you
I'll check it out. I would love to get an engine that doesn't leak as much oil. hehehehehe
TNX
Roy
There is a ‘94 RRC with RPi 4.6 and a ‘96 D1 with 4.0 in the garage. The RRC is bone dry under it while the D1 likes to mark its territory. Constantly tightening the oil pan bolts. Good luck on your engine hunt.
 
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RoyLuke

Well-known member
Apr 18, 2007
261
11
The deeper I get into the engine, the more damage I am finding. The head has a valve that looks bent and stuck open.
This poor engine is ruined. I may not be able to salvage much.
Even the pushrods for the valves were bent when the rod broke.
Whew !!!
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
The deeper I get into the engine, the more damage I am finding. The head has a valve that looks bent and stuck open.
This poor engine is ruined. I may not be able to salvage much.
Even the pushrods for the valves were bent when the rod broke.
Whew !!!
Sounds like it. You might want to contact Will Tillery to see what he has for complete used engines. Let us know if you need his contact info.
 
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