Everyone With 35"+ Tyres
- Thread starter RoverRideAlong
- Start date
ptschram
Well-known member
It's not mine, but I built it...
RTE 5", 35" Dunlop Mud Rovers, Pro-Comp rims, wings/fenders and sliders trimmed to fit.
Sadly, this truck has eaten four rear diffs and three front diffs, stock front axles, GBRs rear.
RTE 5", 35" Dunlop Mud Rovers, Pro-Comp rims, wings/fenders and sliders trimmed to fit.
Sadly, this truck has eaten four rear diffs and three front diffs, stock front axles, GBRs rear.
D
DiscoDino
Guest
On 35s and 36s, my truck was running OMEs (2.5" lift) springs and shocks, RTE body lift, and the ECR/LRA flares...in all honesty, the body lift is not necessary for 35s and you can get away with 2-3" lift, flares and that's that...
My philosophy is to keep things simple...flex is over-rated, and for <37" tires, 10-14" shocks are the max, that's why i stick to off the shelf items like the OME...no custom driveshafts, and steering geometery is somewhat sustained...
Can provide you with more info if needed...
My philosophy is to keep things simple...flex is over-rated, and for <37" tires, 10-14" shocks are the max, that's why i stick to off the shelf items like the OME...no custom driveshafts, and steering geometery is somewhat sustained...
Can provide you with more info if needed...
DiscoDino said:
You have presented great information to me and thanks. You replyed to the toy conversion thread for me also.
What my plans are is doing to toy conversion first then adding a lift when done so I can fit 35s. I had intended on the RTE 5" but just wanted to check with others who are running big.
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D Chapman
Guest
I've got the 3" RTE springs (retained) and a body lift. I would not do the body lift again.
It took a little trimming on the rear fender on the back sides, but the front was fine (trimmed the slider a little).
....I've also got a 1" spacer in the rear with the rubber isolators top and bottom.
This was for 35x13.50 Krawlers on a 10" rim.
It took a little trimming on the rear fender on the back sides, but the front was fine (trimmed the slider a little).
....I've also got a 1" spacer in the rear with the rubber isolators top and bottom.
This was for 35x13.50 Krawlers on a 10" rim.
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DiscoDino
Guest
Yeah, Toy conversion first, then bigger tires...
If I were to run 36s on a stock Disco again, I'd do the following:
1. OME 3" lift (shocks and springs, retained)
2. Flares (they are fugly, but they work...the rubber ones from innovation 4x4 in the UK will solve the "fiber glass" issues of the early flares)
3. Redo steering, hydro assist, rear links, A-Arm extension (RTE, as rear 3rd is low pinion), kinked from arms (you an do this in a press, no need for uber bling ones)
4. Brake extended lines
5. If you want to run beadlocks, H1 16.5"s are DOT approved (or at least you can get away with them) and you can find my favorite tire in the right flavor (36x13.5x16.5, Bias)
no need for body lift...worst case you can trim the flares for full stuff...
If I were to run 36s on a stock Disco again, I'd do the following:
1. OME 3" lift (shocks and springs, retained)
2. Flares (they are fugly, but they work...the rubber ones from innovation 4x4 in the UK will solve the "fiber glass" issues of the early flares)
3. Redo steering, hydro assist, rear links, A-Arm extension (RTE, as rear 3rd is low pinion), kinked from arms (you an do this in a press, no need for uber bling ones)
4. Brake extended lines
5. If you want to run beadlocks, H1 16.5"s are DOT approved (or at least you can get away with them) and you can find my favorite tire in the right flavor (36x13.5x16.5, Bias)
no need for body lift...worst case you can trim the flares for full stuff...
I'm running RTE 2" springs with RTE 2" spacers with some Paddock flares, but if I had some hindsight I would of started w/ 3" springs and cut to fit the 35's.
96 disco 15" Pro-Comp rims 35" pro-comp extreme mud terrain, fender flares, RTE body lift.RTE 5" lift Bilstein 7100's
GBR front and rear diffs 4.75 gears Detroit in rear trutrac front GBR HD rear axles GBR drive shafts double double car-den RTE ,sliders, front ,and, rear bumper warn xd 9000i
GBR front and rear diffs 4.75 gears Detroit in rear trutrac front GBR HD rear axles GBR drive shafts double double car-den RTE ,sliders, front ,and, rear bumper warn xd 9000i
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DiscoDino
Guest
fordbuilder98 said:
i'm sure you can fit 37-38 with that set-up...not sure about the drivetrain though...
I debated this quiet a bit when I setup mine as well. Here is what I have ended up with.
3" RTE springs- retained
12" Bilstien short body shocks all the way around
RTE rear lower arms
Toy conversion- 4.56's and elockers
35x12.5" MTR's- on 8x15" rims with 3.75" backspacing
Lots of trimming and flares- I would not recommend the fiberglass, they where cracked when I got them.
5" RTE front arms- They gave me the correct driveline angle for the toy high pinion diff with a CV driveshaft and moved front axle ahead slightly so the tires clear the firewall
This setup works well for me. The only thing I am looking to change yet is to get a CV rear drive shaft for the rear so I can tip the rear pinion up and get it out of the rocks.
3" RTE springs- retained
12" Bilstien short body shocks all the way around
RTE rear lower arms
Toy conversion- 4.56's and elockers
35x12.5" MTR's- on 8x15" rims with 3.75" backspacing
Lots of trimming and flares- I would not recommend the fiberglass, they where cracked when I got them.
5" RTE front arms- They gave me the correct driveline angle for the toy high pinion diff with a CV driveshaft and moved front axle ahead slightly so the tires clear the firewall
This setup works well for me. The only thing I am looking to change yet is to get a CV rear drive shaft for the rear so I can tip the rear pinion up and get it out of the rocks.
D
D Chapman
Guest
Thanks everyone.
What I am looking at is getting the full RTE 5" kit with Bilsteins 7100s, front and rear toy conversion with 4.88, elockers, and maybe 8x15 steelies with 35x12.5s......
What I am looking at is getting the full RTE 5" kit with Bilsteins 7100s, front and rear toy conversion with 4.88, elockers, and maybe 8x15 steelies with 35x12.5s......
RoverRideAlong said:
I would recommend 10" wheels with that set up. More stable off road. even with the stiff 7100's you still need it IMO....
D Chapman said:
It's a low pinion rear diff and I am running RTE lowers with stock upper mount. With the pinion angle set parallel to the ground I do occasionally catch it. With a CV drive shaft I can tip the pinion up to get a little more clearance and I get the added benefits of pulling the rear tires ahead to help clear the inner fender and less vibes on the highway.
D
D Chapman
Guest
D Chapman said:
the toy 8" isn't a hp that's why you have to use the cruiser hp for the front to clear the tie rod.
I thought about the HP rear when I did it but decided on the low pinion for the higher gear strength and I could get one cheaper that was setup with factory gears. No vehicles had 5.56?s stock in a HP diff.
Looking back at it now it really didn?t save that much as I chipped the teeth on the factory ring gear second time out and ended buying a gear set anyway.
Looking back at it now it really didn?t save that much as I chipped the teeth on the factory ring gear second time out and ended buying a gear set anyway.
D
DiscoDino
Guest
Would not recommend the hi pinion rear - stick to the low pinion...you need all the strength you can get in the rear of the 8" ring gear...
Simply put RTE's A-Arm extension and your pinion will point more upwards...you won't need a new drive line with <3" lift...
RoverRideAlong - would not suggest you go 5"...that's my personal preference...2-3" and the new rubber flares that don't crack...it'll keep your geometery closer to stock, hence less things to change/go wrong in the future, and, your COG will be 2" lower...which would help a lot...
Simply put RTE's A-Arm extension and your pinion will point more upwards...you won't need a new drive line with <3" lift...
RoverRideAlong - would not suggest you go 5"...that's my personal preference...2-3" and the new rubber flares that don't crack...it'll keep your geometery closer to stock, hence less things to change/go wrong in the future, and, your COG will be 2" lower...which would help a lot...
DiscoDino said:
So you think that the 3" lift kit will do me more good than the 5" along with the rubber flares to get the most out of my flex?
What are the opinions on rims then?