Fitting a TJM T15 bumper and winch tray

A

africanpete

Guest
Hello all

Have finally got all the bits together i.e. TJM T15 winch bumper, winch tray, superwinch Ep9i and a couple of the TJM tow hooks (similar to the Curt type)

All this is going on an 03 D2 so, any tips you may have regarding removal of old bumper and installation of new kit would be really helpful.

What steering guard do you guys recommend for this set-up?

Thanks

Pete
 

leeawalden

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2005
2,401
1
Atlanta, GA
connect all the wires to your winch when you put the tray/winch in BEFORE you put the bumper over top of it...if not its really hard to get your hands in there to connect all the wires.
 
A

africanpete

Guest
Thanks Leeawalden

That's the sort of info I need

Peter
 

flyfisher11

Well-known member
May 25, 2005
8,676
2
61
Wolf Laurel NC
BFH "dead blow" for pounding the tray into the frame crossmember and I'd suggest you don't drill through it for that center bolt. That thing hangs so low I'd suggest you get some RTE heavy duty tie rod and drag link instead of skid.

Cheers,

Mike
 

Roach

Well-known member
Sep 5, 2007
383
0
west of the city...
flyfisher11 said:
That thing hangs so low I'd suggest you get some RTE heavy duty tie rod and drag link instead of skid.

Cheers,

Mike

Not to hi-jack too much, Mike, but I see a lot of advise about using a heavy duty tie rod / drag link as opposed to a bash plate. I understand the benefit of using heavy duty replacement parts, but what about ingress off-road from stumps, branches, rocks, etc? Most of my experience is w/blazer setups, which had skid plates, so I would be apprecative of some schooling on this thought process.
Thanks,
 
A

africanpete

Guest
Thanks Mike, already have BFH as am used to working on Landies.:)

Roach, no proplem, I am also interested in theories and experiences on skid plates/guards.
 

leeawalden

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2005
2,401
1
Atlanta, GA
don't know if this is the same thing that mike is talking about but...

there is a long bolt that goes in vertically on the backside of the winch plate. If you can't get it in there don't worry. I never could figure out how to get mine in there so just left it out. I have never had a problem winching. Also, the more sets of hands you have the easier its going to be. Really a straightforward install.
 

jhmover

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
5,571
3
California
africanpete said:
Thanks Mike, already have BFH as am used to working on Landies.:)

Roach, no proplem, I am also interested in theories and experiences on skid plates/guards.

This should get interesting.
 

flyfisher11

Well-known member
May 25, 2005
8,676
2
61
Wolf Laurel NC
Roach said:
Not to hi-jack too much, Mike, but I see a lot of advise about using a heavy duty tie rod / drag link as opposed to a bash plate. I understand the benefit of using heavy duty replacement parts, but what about ingress off-road from stumps, branches, rocks, etc? Most of my experience is w/blazer setups, which had skid plates, so I would be apprecative of some schooling on this thought process.
Thanks,

Okay let me see if I can explain. As he mentioned in the OP this has to do with the TJM. Several years ago I had a TJM. I sold the whole shootin' match and switched over to RTE front and rear including the RTE skid. The way the RTE sits up it is IMO a good idea to have the RTE skid for maximum protection. The TJM sits lower and has the winch tray down on the bottom. The tray is the only place to put recovery hooks with confidence in their ability to not pull loose. The TJM winch tray itself acts a bit as a skid. It is solid and provides a good bit of protection. If you put a traditional skid up under there you will likely loose the ability to reach your recovery hooks on the winch tray. At the very least it will make it hard. Since pictures speak louder than words, I will post and old pic of my rig with TJM from years back and one with RTE more recently. With the RTE you have more/better options for skid protection.

Cheers,

Mike
 

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Roach

Well-known member
Sep 5, 2007
383
0
west of the city...
Mike, I understand what you are saying, and it makes more sense to me now. Ididn't realize the issue w/ the TJM winch tray. Thanks!:cheers:
 
A

africanpete

Guest
Thanks for the input so far, will look at HD bars. Is it possible to get the winch and tray fitted without the TJM bumper, was told today that bumper will only arrive next week but I would still like to fit the tray and then refit original bumper, is this possible?

How easy it to roll the cable onto the drum once the TJM bumper is fitted?
 

leeawalden

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2005
2,401
1
Atlanta, GA
you could do some cutting and get to to fit maybe, I would just wait a week for the bumper to get there and save the hassle and headaches.

If you are talking about buying synthethic cable or new cable and changing the cable while the bumper is on, I would take the bumper off. Those little holes on the bumper are just enough to reach your hand in to put the winch in freespool. If you are talking about putting the cable on the drum after winching, its not a huge deal. Not as easy as if you were using a Safari Gard, Rovertym, Rockware, or any other bumper where the winch mounts up higher. Its harder to see the winch behind the bumper, but its not a huge deal.
 

cboy903

Well-known member
Nov 4, 2004
117
0
NJ
www.choyboy.com
africanpete said:
Thanks for the input so far, will look at HD bars. Is it possible to get the winch and tray fitted without the TJM bumper, was told today that bumper will only arrive next week but I would still like to fit the tray and then refit original bumper, is this possible?

How easy it to roll the cable onto the drum once the TJM bumper is fitted?

I wouldn't bother with the tray without the bumper. The tray uses the same bolts as the crush cans so when you go to do the TJm bumper, you'll have to take it out anyways. Just wait the extra week.
 
A

africanpete

Guest
Ok, update time + I think I have a few more problems...

1) My EPi9 is very tight in the winch tray, going to have to take the plasma cutter to the RHS of the tray so that I can get the winch centred with rollers.

2) Even if it did fit into the tray, I would still not be able to get the bottom bolts in (the ones that go in the chassis rails). I can get the one at the back and the two top ones in okay, is this suffecient? Was thinking I could add two more either side of the rear central bolt?

3) If that's not enough, looks like I'm not gonna get my winch in due to it having an integral (over head) solenoid pack, what are your experiences with this? Will it go or will I need to relocate it?

4) looking at the tow hooks, the way they are mounted on the EE website, have any of you had problems with them digging in or catching on something? They seem to be much stronger than the winch tray they are fixed to and looks to me like they could twist the tray?? Any alternative mounting ideas.

Thanks
Pete

I'll post some pics of the install when I'm finished with it all and also explain what I've had to do as the TJM installation guide is not that clear, well to me anyway.
 

leeawalden

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2005
2,401
1
Atlanta, GA
pete,

I just put the two bolts that run through the frame and didn't put the long bolt that ran through the back center (the vertical bolt correct?) and I never had an problems while winching. I would rather have the two that run through the frame rails in because it is what secures the bumper as well since it is secured by the crush cans and the crush cans are secured by those two bolts.

I know a lot of people use those tow hooks where they mounted them in the EE pictures...I never did have any because I figured "well I have a winch if I get stuck"

The winch tray is not designed to accomodate an integrated solenoid winch...since you have a plasma cutter, you might be able to do some cutting and make it fit, but I don't know of anyone who has fit an integrated solenoid winch in the TJM tray/bumper combo...but maybe someone will speak up.

Good Luck!
 
A

africanpete

Guest
Thanks Lee, for some reason it didnt even cross my mind that the bottom bolts also hold the crush cans to the rails, must be tired:yawn:

Looks like I'm gonna have to do alot more modifying than I origanally thought:banghead:

thanks for the sound advice so far

Pete
 

nrene

Well-known member
Dec 16, 2006
759
0
Lovettsville, VA
photobucket.com
I mounted the tow hooks in a similar way to EE's site... I angled them down just slightly, and they are only 1/2" lower than the front lip of the bumper.

IMO, you should have at least one hook up front... what happens if your winch battery dies, or cable snaps, or whatever?

I got all 5 bolts to fit on my tray, with minor widening of the rear / vertical one. To get that one to fit, I reamed out the lower hole to correct for an angle issue dropping the long bolt in from the top.

If you are worried, just tack weld the back of the tray to the frame in a couple spots, more than enough.

It's tight in there in any case, even a standard X9 with remote solenoid barely fits with enough room to operate the spool release.
 
A

africanpete

Guest
I've been onto Goodwinch (suppliers) and, well, there isn't enough height to get my winch in with the solenoid so they have very kindly sold me a set of stainless tie bars which replace the solenoid bridge on the EP9i allowing me to put the pack where ever I please (easiest place!)

I'll let you know how I get on

Pete