GM 8.2 I Believe, and How Would You Finish Cleaning It?

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
please do!

I'll get right on it.

I just placed an order for an LPW Ultra rear cover. They said it'll fit under the track bar.

There is no need for it from a performance perspective, but it'll add a nice finishing touch visually when combined with the stainless brake hard lines. Figured I'd paint or powder it with a tinted clear to give it a cast iron look after a while. I just think the style combined with the color will really add a cool "industrial" aesthetic.

It may be worth coating the brake lines to match, but I have to order and bend the tube first. I don't want to be straightening a coil, as it rarely turns out good unless you have a dedicated straightener, and I'm not buying one just to use it twice. I'll pay a little more for straight tube sections and keep it easy.

I'm excited to get to cleaning that 12 bolt up. This part of a project is a lot of fun. I won't be rebuilding it, but that's just because I don't have the stuff to do it conveniently. It'll probably be fine, and if there's an issue, I'll handle it at that time. So, it's just cleaning and cosmetically restoring; plus rebuilding the brakes, obviously.

Picked up some chrome center caps with the Cragar logo on them in dark blue or black. I don't really care which it is. I'm just used to seeing a logo on a center cap at this point, and I didn't want plain chrome. I will put up some before and after pictures for fun.

It won't be perfect, as I'm not completely stripping the thing, but it'll be nice. If I were to strip it, I'd want to rebuild it, and then I'd want to add a traction aid, and then... Fuck, may as well order a custom 9 inch, at that point. So, let's just hope it doesn't clunk. :)

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Just picked up a Milwaukee M18 angle grinder and an M12 rotary tool. I'm sick of cords on those damned things, and this will allow me to clean the axle up wherever the hell I want. It'll be nice when I get to the body, as well. It may not have much in the way of rust, but there are some things to do nonetheless.

The only section that looks it's age is the trunk floor. It was replaced a while back after a collision, from the looks of things, and I suspect it came from another vehicle rather than a body shop or a catalog. That's really why I got the grinder, but I wanted it soon enough to have a more convenient time on the axle.

Good thing I've already got the batteries.

No more Dremel nonsense. Ever. I hate those things with a passion. I don't like non-adjustable die grinders, either; not for what I do, anyway. That's for the big boys. That M12 rotary tool has some juice, though. It's only going to be limited by the... Whatever you call the brushes, cut-off discs and things you put in there. What are those called, anyway? Expensive little fuckers.

I've only now just realized that if there's a word for them, don't know it. :ROFLMAO:

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
The axle hasn't shown up yet, but I just ordered my bearings, seals, dust caps, and things of that nature. I won't be rebuilding it, but I'll certainly replace the easy stuff. Brake lines come once I've done the other stuff.

If it shows up this week, that will give me all weekend to pull the stuff apart and clean it up. I'm not so sure about using POR 15 on the case, but I'll make that decision after a few tests. I'll hit the drum backing plates with either caliper paint or powder. I went ahead and ordered the brake rebuild parts just to get free shipping on the rest.

I doubt I'll have it all done in an efficient amount of time, but in a perfect world I could actually have that paint setting next week on an axle ready for installation. I'll probably be a week late.

Haven't ordered new lug nuts yet. I'm sick of chrome nuts. I haven't found lugs nuts that don't peel yet, so I think I'll pick up some of those Gorilla lifetime units. Maybe they won't suck. I won't know what to buy until I drop a wheel on the axle, though.

The Cragar center caps showed up, and they're certainly much higher quality than the others I'd been considering. Maybe they've kept their quality up over the years. I was never a huge fan of their wheel designs, but they weren't crap like most. I think the chrome on the caps will out-shine my wheels, actually...

Whatever. It'll look nice. I'm deliberately not being a perfectionist, here... Well, I'm trying.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
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kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Got the differential cover in today. I was jut fucking around with lighting, so I had to edit out some color here and there, but this is legitimately what it looks like:

EDIT: Picture moved to "before and after" post below.

I'm going to head to the powder shop and see if they can tint it a little to look like the pictures on the website. Apparently, they took them years ago, and it looks like cast iron up there. I knew what I was getting, but I really dig that look. Never really liked the way cast aluminum looks.

It's not a big deal if I can't or won't get it tinted, but I'm going to check to see what they have in stock, anyway. I'd rather use something translucent to still get the grain structure of the metal under there, but I don't know what's available these days. If they have tinted clear and don't need to order a whole bag, and if it's not stupid expensive, I'll do it.

These covers are made in Pennsylvania. It's not the absolute best finish quality in the world, but I know they've been making them a long time. The price wasn't too bad, and at least it's not made in China. I just think it looks cool. It's different than all the finned stuff out there, and has a bit more of an "industrial" look than a "I'm pretending I can go fast" look.

I'd rather not have the support bolts I don't need, but whatever. Can't do much about that within reason, and they serve a purpose for other people.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
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kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
I'm now considering keeping that TH350 transmission. I'd like four gears, but I'm not keen on moving to anything electronically controlled, and options there really kick the price up. I've still got options, but this isn't a bad setup given my gearing and expected output range.

I've been a little surprised at what it costs to rebuild one now, even locally, but it looks like most of the industry wants to charge around $700-$1,000 to get it done. If I handle it locally, I can get the shifts like I want them. For the same price just ordering one, I get whatever they send me and have to adjust it myself.

A shop nearby gave me a tentative quote for the numbers above, to include getting it shifting the way I like, fully rebuilt tip to taint, and including a torque converter. The price would be the same even if my case won't pass muster, apparently. He can source another, according to his own words.

I'm just not sure, yet. I haven't looked, but it probably doesn't have the bracket to fit a TH400, as it came with a Powerglide and a 327 from the factory. I'm assuming the TH350 in there is hung on the factory cross-member. I'll get to that when I have it on jack stands again.

Keeping those internals a touch lighter could be a good thing. I'm not sure how much of a difference it will make, though.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Yeah, it's here and it'll work.

I really would like a fourth gear, but I'm not paying several grand or re-imagining anything for the privilege.

It's a gamble, though. A fourth ratio makes a big difference in an old car when it comes to modern convenience, comfort, and even mileage. If I had four gears and a lock-up converter, it would go a long way in regard to the "feel" of the vehicle on the highway.

There's just no way to keep it in the same financial, labor, and time ballpark, though. May as well rebuild the TH350. That will be done much more quickly.

I'll still ask the shop one way or another, as you never know what someone is willing to do, but I don't expect good news on a four speed.

Honestly, I expect they'll do a shit job on the TH350. Everyone else does shit jobs in the area, but I just plain can't rebuild a transmission here.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
It looks like $1,500 for a factory brand spanking new rebuild of everything in, on, or about the transmission (supposedly). $300 more will have them tow the thing over there (running or not) and save me all the headache of removing and installing a transmission. That's including a shift kit. I'm not sure if it's just a cheap plate or more extensive work.

I have a choice of warranty, and can shave $100 moving from 18 month to 12 month. Same rebuild, apparently, and they didn't seem too concerned about it, and didn't try to up-sell me. They do have lots of good reviews, but people are morons and I never believe them, at this point.

Eh. Not a fan of decisions like this.

The fucked up thing is a 700R4 is $2,200, including the towing, conversion (cross-member and everything; I wouldn't even have to touch it), and shift kit as well.

That 10 bolt may sell when I get it cleaned up, but I don't expect more than $200 out of it, even though it's tight and in good shape. It'll look new when I put it on the market.

Got the old suspension for sale, as well. We'll see if anyone bites. I'd let it all go, including the center steering link, upper and lower rear arms, upper and lower front arms, and springs (I think I've got all four) for $400.

God damn that overdrive gear would be nice to have in there. That a fucking selling point, and it's a big one. Nobody wants to buy a car and swap a rebuilt transmission out immediately, and if it's already got overdrive, they don't even have to consider how nice it would be if it did.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Fuck it. I want four gears. I'm going to let them haul it down there and look, to be sure it's not going to be a nightmare with the mis-matched engine upper end and the jack-leg linkages. I'm not overly concerned with the gauges at the moment, as the smart, simple move is Dakota Digital.

I don't know where that important cable on the 700R4 connects, anyway. I could look it up, but I may as well let the guy do his thing.

So long as there isn't some obscene incompatibility, I'll roll with the 700R4. People say they are weak, but people say lots of things are weak, and people drive like idiots. If it's another $200 to get it all connected up and shifting properly, so be it. Much more than that, though, and I'll need to re-evaluate.

I may want this a certain way, but I also might sell it toward a new car. That means I need to stick to my budget. I don't like losing money.

Clearly, it's time to clean out my keyboard in this smoking area. It's missing characters, and I'm not noticing them all.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
The early Vettes only had 2 speeds. 😁

Actually, this car was equipped with that two-speed from the factory. I don't see how the heck that was a good fit for what's clearly the 1967 equivalent of a minivan with factory spinners, but whatever. I mean, let's face it; that's what a sport sedan is, in the end. It's a worse sedan that looks like a coupe. I ain't done putting lipstick on this pig just yet, though. :ROFLMAO:

The axle showed up last night, so I'll be getting started cleaning it up later. This is the really, really fun part, because a little bit of labor and a few bucks in hardware and brake lines will have this thing looking pretty damned sweet.

56389

I should be picking up the differential cover today, as well. I forgot to tell them there was an axle delay, but they don't seem intent on charging me to shoot the drum backing plates at a separate time. That's very nice of them. I'll have the cover shot up later, probably.

I'll be taking lots of pictures of it for the build reference, but the next one you see here should be the axle finished, unless I find something interesting to photograph in there.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Had to do the same lighting and editing again to make it a fair comparison, and got a bit lazy. Whatever.

Here's the before and after on the differential cover.

Before:

56399

After:

56400

Now I think it looks like it's made of something. It's got a bit more visual "meat" than just the dainty-looking cast aluminum that would end up absorbing something and staining, or just aging poorly anyway.

I like it, regardless.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
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kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Looks great!

Thanks.

The axle shafts are out, and they look great. The ring, pinion, and differential are nice, as well. I've got one drum stripped, and once I get the actual retention hardware off in a couple of hours or so, I'll remove those backing plates. They'll get that same finish to cross-pollinate the color a bit.

In the meantime, I'll be finishing up the cleaning and brushing, and getting that housing dry until there's not a single spot that doesn't flash rust, and replacing the axle bearings and seals.

Then, treatment, stabilization, priming, and painting.... Unless I try POR 15, but honestly I'm a bit scared of that stuff. On one hand, they want it clean, but on the other hand, they want it rusty. Then they want you to spray it with their cleaner and prep, which I would imagine is phosphate or something; I haven't checked.

I've got the stuff, but man, I'm not sure if I shouldn't just hit it with tractor paint, or several coats of red oxide after etching and then some Rustoleum Professional satin black. I've got some time to decide. My dyslexic ass putting drum brakes back together from scratch is going to be... Interesting.

Good thing I've got another axle under the car that's supposed to have an identical setup. I still took tons of pictures, though.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
Have used POR 15 on a few applications.

It does like non flaking “clean” rust.

Usually just wire brush the area, then rinse with water, let dry, and then apply.

Have only used it in non UV places so haven’t applied a top coat.

It is very thin when brushing it.

Good luck with the project.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Well, I just finished the back coat of paint on the axle flanges. My word those were a pain in the ass to clean.

I've got to be very careful in regard to humidity with the bearing surfaces exposed, so I'm doing one side at a time. When I'm satisfied that's dried well enough, I'll clean up the lugs a bit, mask them, and paint the face before using a heat gun to set the stuff a little better.

Instead of a normal mask, I used a rag slightly damp with oil going from tight up top to loose near the "paint line" to allow a bit of a fade; avoiding a hard line anywhere near the actual axle shaft. I don't know how much those twist, but let's face it... They won't exactly be the highest alloy in the world. The fade should prevent cracking.

Anything could have been used, here, but it seemed that for axle flanges caliper paint would be the best bet, and I had a can of gloss black already from another project. It tested good, so I used it.

Once I get both sides I'll have a before and after shot up. It's not powder, and I didn't spend six fucking years getting it perfect, but it'll hold, and it will look better than whatever the hell was on there before. I don't know what that stuff was, honestly, but it was ugly.

This stuff should resist various chemicals and road debris better than other options. POR might be better, but I'm just not feeling it. If course, if those flanges are prone to deflection, this harder coat might not be ideal. We shall see. They'll be fine either way. It's just cosmetic, and I figured it would be a waste of time not to clean them up as long as they were easily accessible.

Honestly, it might have been easier if they were still in the housing.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Before and after.

I decided to blue the studs because I couldn't find new units that were plated nicely and the right length.

I was hoping to get another quarter inch. Whatever. Maybe they will be fine. At least they are somewhat pretty, and slightly corrosion resistant.

No, that torque wrench isn't used on anything super important.

Before:

56460

After:

56461

EDIT: They're now standing up on the studs in the corner, and I've cleaned up the mess I made. I've got some G96 gun oil soaking into the bearing surfaces to protect them, pull out any staining I can't see, make it smell like Old Spice (great oil for a carry piece, if that's your thing) and will dry it out and re-oil with the proper stuff before installation.

I can't fucking wait until I can post a before and after of the whole housing. That's going to be a LOT of fun to see.

I'll probably use this thread a lot, because it's a great series of notes that I can just copy over to print out and put in a nice binder if I sell the car. I want people to see precisely what was used, what condition it was in, and the end result, as well as how I accomplished it with no bullshit. This keeps things organized, so there will probably be many more pictures here, unless that's a problem.

I'm trying to keep them fairly small, but still large enough for detail. Maybe some people will learn a few things from this thread that can be applied to their Rovers, or maybe I'll learn some new stuff if anyone comments. So, it's useful all around. I won't be boring anyone with detailed bodywork stuff, but little things like this can be interesting and useful.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
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