GM 8.2 I Believe, and How Would You Finish Cleaning It?

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
Looks great!

Over the years I’ve kept records of the work performed on my vehicles, yet, before / after pics would have been nice.

A binder should be appreciated by the potential buyer and eventual new owner.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Looks great!

Over the years I’ve kept records of the work performed on my vehicles, yet, before / after pics would have been nice.

A binder should be appreciated by the potential buyer and eventual new owner.

Yeah, I think they'll like having every single specification, what vehicles the parts came from, and all the pictures. It really does add value, and given this is likely to end up as a father/son or father/daughter project, it'll help. It's not as if it's taken too much effort to keep track.

The housing is off for blasting as of today. I couldn't get it any cleaner without spending too much or taking it completely apart, and they only wanted fifty bucks to get it in the white. When it's done, there will be a brief period of some idle jobs I want to do there, and then I'll clear off any flash rust, etch it, and get busy with the red oxide so it can spend some time curing inside.

I'm looking forward to seeing it back together. That's going to be a hell of a before and after shot. I still have to order the stainless line for the brakes, but I want to practice bending some first. I'm ordering straight tube rather than coiled, and obviously it's a shit-load more expensive, so I don't want to screw it up.

It'll look much better than the coiled stuff when done, though. Even with a tubing straightener that stuff never really gets right; and you can tell from behind a car. Eh. I'm probably going to fuck it up and have to order more anyway, so I'd better get some extra pieces and just bite the cost.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Well, I did decide to try the POR 15, considering if anyone had prepped the metal properly it was me; degreased (hours of the process), pressure washed at 2.8GPM and 3,000PSI with a needle nozzle, wire brushed, sanded, heated, torched with wide dispersion propane, acetone, and then media blasted from screw compressors (shockingly powerful) before being etched and then treated with their own prep product.

It's going to be curing for a while, but aside from the whole light coat thing that just wasn't possible, it went on quite nicely. We'll see what it's like when it fully hardens, as I'll need to scuff it up a bit for top coating. That's going to be satin black.

POR seems to brush on perfectly well. I didn't end up with any brush marks at all. It is glossier than a factory body paint job, though. You have to top coat it anyway, but I figured I'd point that out. It does make it a touch difficult to see if you've missed a tiny spot, but coverage is nice.

I'm still not sure I trust it, but we'll find out in the next couple of days how it hardens, and the scuffing will certainly be a decent test for the finish. If it took, it should be fine. If it didn't, it should be obvious almost immediately.

I feel I should point out that if you just stir it a little, like you would anything else, it probably would be as watery as people say. If you stir it all the way, though, it's thick. That may be where people are having problems; not getting enough solids on the part.

That little tiny can in the kit you can buy at Autozone, Amazon, and all is indeed enough to do the entire axle. I would not have believed it for a second if I hadn't just done it myself. Worry not. If you're considering using it on your solid axle, the $29.95 kit contains everything you need.

WEAR GLOVES! I forgot. We will see how long I look like I've had my hands in a tar pit.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Here's a preview, after the POR 15 coating, but before the primer and top coats. POR 15 is not a finish so much as it is another layer of preparation before finish is applied. I'll point out again that it's going to be satin when finished.

I also blued the shock and track rod mounts.

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I managed to get every single spot easily with that stuff; even right into the tiniest, deepest welds on the mounting tabs. Given the care taken in preparation, those areas won't be corroding any time soon at all, and should be very easy to clean. I'm not sure whether I finished it as well as possible, but I got that stuff in places GM didn't know it had. It's not thin, but it still manages to creep everywhere and fill the tiniest of voids.

To paraphrase The Tick: POR 15 has it's mitts all up in that housing's puppet. :LOL:

I already can tell it bonded well, and it's hardening at a solid, steady rate. This stuff is going to last. Test applications were extremely durable, taking abuse that would easily strip factory paint and even damage an average powder finish.

The POR will be left to harden until Tuesday, when I will scuff it down well enough to prime it with their own product. Waiting allows me to control the high humidity events POR 15 requires to harden in order to more evenly and thoroughly cure the finish. That also removes any risk of finishes curing at different rates and weakening their bonds.

After that, it'll be painted satin black. I am likely to choose Rustoleum Professional enamel for that. That's not actually the best rust resistant paint, but it's not bad, and it's job is only to protect the POR 15, anyway. If damaged, it is quite good at keeping it localized, and is very easy to repair. It also cures harder than other top coats, and yet maintains a fair amount of flexibility. The high amount of solids adds a tendency to smooth over a rough surface, which (along with the satin texture) will help reduce the visibility of pitting.

Flat would hide it even more, but it's difficult to clean and touch up. I prefer having the history visible, anyway. The axle is 53 years old. It's earned that pitting, damn it.

Yes, I coated over the hardware for the shock mounts and track rod mount. Having removed those on the other axle, I found that the metal under them was perfect, and the way they are mounted prevents slipping and finish flex. Weighing the certain finish damage of applying that much torque in their reattachment if removed before painting (and the fact that they are unlikely to be removed) against the benefits of full encapsulation, I determined that was the best course of action.

This was accomplished on jack stands supporting the axle via long bolts through the backplate mount flanges. The case wasn't touching the stands at all, and was easily rotated. As such, I was able to get the entire tube in one shot, with only a tiny amount of support area in two small holes at either end. Those will be sealed when the axle is ready to support it's weight without the risk of finish transfer.

I can't vouch for any long-term durability or age issues with POR 15, as that can only be determined after several months of use, but I can certainly say it stuck to every single spot it touched... And it touched all the spots, without any hassle at all.

Here's another shot:

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That is a close-up of the condition of the metal during the acid etch after all that degreasing, blasting, and cleaning/drying, before the POR 15 application. It's quite solid, and there are no little hidden away spots that didn't get the full treatment.

I also remembered to spray out, clean, and fill any factory casting voids, such as those common around the spot welds. I want this to hold up as well as possible, and that sort of thing bugs me, anyway.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
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kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Here are the backing plates after coating. That's the phosphate etch results you're seeing, not undesirable rust. When they're mounted I'll seal that and the hardware with caliper paint.

I didn't want to crack or grind away the coating when torquing them back onto the housing. Better to treat and seal over it with another finish when the hardware has already been cranked down.

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Somehow, they actually managed to coat between the plates and the edge guards without bridging. I never thought they'd be able to do it, but that means what was once just cosmetic is now a proper, long-lasting, solidly protective finish. These were prepped as well as the rest of the stuff.

You'll note I again finished over some hardware; specifically on the back side of whatever the pivot pin thing is called. This was for the same reason as the hardware on the axle tube; it was simply the correct choice in this application.

What looks like spatter in the right depression in the left plate is actually an imperfection in the metal. The coat is solid and well-applied.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Well, I'm probably about to swap bearings and seals, now.

It's frustrating to have to do it after the POR coat, but I needed to use that torch to get the metal right, and it doesn't take much to melt seals like that. Didn't want to do it in the white, because that metal is like a sponge, at that point. Here's hoping I don't crack anything. That coating is hard as hell.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Well, I got those bearings and seals out, and I got lucky again.

When I plugged the holes for all that prep, bought two rubber stoppers; deciding I'd rely on the seals and stoppers to protect the innards. Well, one stopper was smaller than the other by 1/16 of an inch. It popped in and stuck in a wheel bearing. Fuck. No drilling that out easily, right? Thought I'd have to melt a hook in there to pull it, but as it turns out, that bearing was nearly seized, anyway. It came out with no trouble.

I think the inner bearings are fine. It looks like the sand just got in that one axle bearing because the plug went in too far, as it was crunchy, but not totally locked, and no signs of screwing up were present. Didn't make it past there, though.

The bearings seemed to be a looming headache after all those years, but again they came out without much of a hassle. The seals were more difficult, actually; as they kept pulling apart, but they were removed within five minutes. The bearings may well have been original, as they were made by Hyatt. At the very least, they've been in there since the '70s.

I don't think this axle has 150,000 miles on it. I think it's got 15,000 miles on it. Either way, I get to clean up those mounting surfaces and tap some new bearings and seals in, then I'll mask them and get to priming. I might be able to get them pretty clean tonight.

I'll photograph the old bearings and the current condition of their mounting areas before cleaning them up. The new stuff is Timken on both accounts, so it'll be ready to go.

EDIT:

Well, that seems to have gone smoothly. An Amazon bearing installer popped it all right in with no hassle and the precise sizes I needed for the bearings and seals. There's a first time for everything, I suppose.

I will note, however, that a Harbor Freight slide hammer and bearing puller I bought were not compatible with one another. I didn't have that laying around, and figured it would be a cheap solution that would work once or twice. Nope. Don't buy that thing. You won't get much out with what it includes, and that's all you can use it with. It only works with what comes in the box.

A rented slide hammer from Advance Auto did the job just fine, and it was better. It was made fairly well for the price they'd have charged for purchase.

Now it's on to priming the backing plate flanges in a trash bag inside, letting it cure a bit, and installing them. That area doesn't need a real top coat, but for simplicity I want to just roll it outside on the wheels for the rest of the spraying. So, I have to get that little bit protected well enough for the long haul, when the backing plates are bolted on.

I may use a very, very thin film of sealant in there just to be sure it's isolated pretty much forever. They may not be particularly interesting, but I'll toss up some pictures of this little stuff for entertainment value and reference. Buyers will appreciate the steps taken for longevity and photographic records.

I'll be spraying out any accumulations and contaminants with CRC electronics cleaner. It doesn't hurt anything, and it's a good way to get stuff out of the pumpkin before sealing it up.

So, it's get to the point of mounting the wheels, clean up the cover mating surface, paint, spray it out, and get it put back together and ready to install the brakes.

It looks like I can just order pre-bent stainless brake hard-lines for less than bending them myself. Hopefully that's accurate, because it would save a bunch of headache.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
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kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Here are the old and new bearings.

I can't seem to get a shot of the POR 15 without terrible reflections. It's not all runny like it looks in the shots, and it's not rubbed off or chipped. The stuff is just plain too glossy for quick photography in that room. It survived the bearing removal and installation just fine.

Obviously I'm still headed toward primer, but I want to spray out the differential housing just a bit before sliding the axles back in, just in case. I need to dig up the torque values for that pin retaining screw, anyway.

Like I said, though; it looks better in person. I can't wait to take a shot in primer. That POR 15 gloss is obscene.

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Yay! Those pictures are precisely what people want to see. :ROFLMAO:

It may be a bit boring, but it's obviously one of the more important parts of the process. Damn those reflections, though. It looks like there's a big drip going on there, but it's nearly imperceptible in person. If you ever want something shiny as fuck, you know how to make it happen now. Just buy some POR 15.

Whatever. It's not bad for my first time with the stuff and using a brush.

None of it chipped. Those are just reflections from something nearby. That stuff is quite hard, and yet very forgiving once cured.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
God damn it all. Fucking yuppies.

I can't get the damned hardware I need in town to install those backing plates. That area should really be grade 8, but I can't even get 3/8-24 hardware in grade 5 here. The world sucks now.

Bah. I've just had to order them.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
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Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
Well, I did decide to try the POR 15, considering if anyone had prepped the metal properly it was me; degreased (hours of the process), pressure washed at 2.8GPM and 3,000PSI with a needle nozzle, wire brushed, sanded, heated, torched with wide dispersion propane, acetone, and then media blasted from screw compressors (shockingly powerful) before being etched and then treated with their own prep product.

It's going to be curing for a while, but aside from the whole light coat thing that just wasn't possible, it went on quite nicely. We'll see what it's like when it fully hardens, as I'll need to scuff it up a bit for top coating. That's going to be satin black.

POR seems to brush on perfectly well. I didn't end up with any brush marks at all. It is glossier than a factory body paint job, though. You have to top coat it anyway, but I figured I'd point that out. It does make it a touch difficult to see if you've missed a tiny spot, but coverage is nice.

I'm still not sure I trust it, but we'll find out in the next couple of days how it hardens, and the scuffing will certainly be a decent test for the finish. If it took, it should be fine. If it didn't, it should be obvious almost immediately.

I feel I should point out that if you just stir it a little, like you would anything else, it probably would be as watery as people say. If you stir it all the way, though, it's thick. That may be where people are having problems; not getting enough solids on the part.

That little tiny can in the kit you can buy at Autozone, Amazon, and all is indeed enough to do the entire axle. I would not have believed it for a second if I hadn't just done it myself. Worry not. If you're considering using it on your solid axle, the $29.95 kit contains everything you need.

WEAR GLOVES! I forgot. We will see how long I look like I've had my hands in a tar pit.

Cheers,

Kennith
Great to hear your POR experience went well. I’ve had good success with it too. Have not used a top coat as the part covered isn’t in the sun.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Great to hear your POR experience went well. I’ve had good success with it too. Have not used a top coat as the part covered isn’t in the sun.

I've got to do it either way, given the gloss. That level of shiny doesn't play well with all the surface imperfections. I'll bet if someone actually sprayed it onto new metal it would be interesting. It's supposed to be pretty dangerous, though, and I don't have any of the stuff to spray with at the moment.

If I hadn't needed to order that stupid hardware, it would have been put back together to roll around and primed yesterday. That's the best way to do a good job of it; installing the wheels so I can get it all at once with no support at all on the housing.

So, there's nothing to do but wait until tomorrow, assuming they actually show up when they're supposed to.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

SGaynor

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2006
7,148
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52
Bristol, TN
The
I've got to do it either way, given the gloss. That level of shiny doesn't play well with all the surface imperfections. I'll bet if someone actually sprayed it onto new metal it would be interesting. It's supposed to be pretty dangerous, though, and I don't have any of the stuff to spray with at the moment.
I've heard of people thinning it out a bit and using the Preval sprayers (if they get gummed up, you toss it). I've used them for other things and they are pretty slick little homemade aerosol sprayers.
https://preval.com/diy-pro-products/preval-sprayer/

Definitely would use a respirator/goggles in a well ventilated area, though.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
The backing plates have been installed after that hardware finally showed up.

I coated the mating surface with the housing flange to prevent corrosion over time with caliper paint, and then followed up with a very thin film of high temperature sealant. The hardware is 3/8X24 grade 8, with split lock washers. I also used Blue Loctite, and torqued them in the appropriate pattern to 61lb/ft.

This is essentially splitting the difference in every suggestion I've seen, and then moving up a few just to be on the safe side. The fine threads, split washers, thread locker, and erring slightly higher on the average torque value used should keep them in place for another fifty years.

Before the hardware was installed, I cleaned it thoroughly and gave it a touch of brushing to ensure the thread locker was able to cure properly. That stuff doesn't like oily films and plating. It still works, but not quite as well. These are brake backing plates... I'm not taking chances.

On the side upon which the brakes will actually be installed, the surrounding phosphate will be blued, sealed, and coated to prevent corrosion, with a thin film of appropriate grease.

Obviously the housing surface is nearly prepped for priming and top coats in the photographs. Just a little 400 grit pad and an electronics cleaner wipe-down before I can mask off the backing plates and go to town. Only the areas near the flanges have been wiped in those shots, which is why you see all that scuffing so easily.

Here again I will be painting over fasteners. It makes sense here because there's no way those fasteners wouldn't score through a finish, so it was better to torque them down and paint over them to seal it all. It's not as if anyone will be removing them, but it's a shame the hardware can't shine through, as that would have looked pretty neat.

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The only reason that torque wrench is in the shot is because I wanted it at least hinted that I did torque them properly, and I used a precise tool to do it.

That's the only Snap-On tool I have, minus a socket I picked up off a truck when I needed one, because it was right across the street and I didn't feel like driving all the way to Sears.

I may have to replace the pinion seal, after all. I gave it a bottle of fluid and let it sit for a few days with the pinion facing down, and when I tipped it a bit to be able to apply the torque, some started dripping a bit. I wouldn't have been able to let that go, anyway. It was bugging me, so I'd have done it either way.

It probably wouldn't show on the car, but I want to be sure it's nice and dry down there. Being able to say it has no leaks will be valuable, and I can't let shit like that slide regardless.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
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kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
The

I've heard of people thinning it out a bit and using the Preval sprayers (if they get gummed up, you toss it). I've used them for other things and they are pretty slick little homemade aerosol sprayers.
https://preval.com/diy-pro-products/preval-sprayer/

Definitely would use a respirator/goggles in a well ventilated area, though.

I was looking for those damned things for some time, but forgot what they were called.

I'll be ordering some to play around with. There are some jobs on this car where they will allow me to do things that I'd otherwise have to pay someone else or wait until they are free to get done; such as spraying behind the dash and all that with the appropriate colors.

That's the first place I like to spray on cars, because it lets me get the dash back together before I start to forget how it all connects. and allows much nicer wiring and installation of the A/C system more easily on this particular car. This stuff has to be right. The body will be dented and not receive the greatest paint job, but it'll be as solid and tight as a new vehicle.

Well, I don't know about appropriate. I'm probably going to go with a slightly textured dark, potentially pearl or metallic satin gray or black, as I never liked the unfinished paint look those dashboards received from the factory. It'll also be easy for someone to paint over, and make it feel a little more modern than the factory colors.

I won't be doing an "accurate" restoration in there. I'll be simplifying and giving modern touches that replicate what people are used to seeing and feeling nowadays. I'm not giving myself the budget to take it too far, anyway, and inside I'm mainly concerned about sealing, mustiness, and every control you touch feeling smooth and tight.

Door handle areas will be deadened and adjusted for tension, as well. No high frequency clicks and clinks or dead spots.

That means a fair bit of money will likely go into an iDidIt steering column and cable shift linkage; as well as new, better-feeling dash switches and a Dakota Digital "analog" cluster with LED lighting and some ambient lighting to make it feel alive when you open the door.

It's just a shame I have to scrap the entire interior. I'm not looking forward to rebuilding those benches from scratch, or buying over a thousand dollars in body seals, but by all that may or may not be holy, that stuff is what's going to matter, here.

I just hope the current engine is up to the task without too much work. Just because it's a hodge-podge doesn't mean it can't be smoothed out and made reliable.

EDIT: Hopefully today I can get around to reinstalling the axles themselves and getting it off those jack stands so I can roll it out and finish the paint, but it's time to clean up the cover mounting surface properly.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
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kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Well, I'm chasing the threads now for the rear cover. I may have to replace one of the two Heli-Coils, but aside from that they are all sparkling up without an issue. The axles are back in, and I've been rotating those gears in the pumpkin filled with a mixture of Seafoam and cheap differential fluid. Every so often, I tip it, let it drain, and spray the housing out with Seafoam again.

That won't actually dry anything, so it's decent for this purpose and under pressure. It allows me to blast stuff out I can't otherwise reach without flash rust, and is good at creeping into bearings and cleaning things out. It's making all the right noises now, which are nearly silent, and it's smooth as silk.

There will be a few more pictures soon as I prep for the primer, but I need to see if I can straighten out just the top part of that coil. The bolt goes in fine, but the tap is binding just a touch near the break-off top. I'd rather that not happen. For now it will be fine, but I'll probably order a replacement coil before final assembly on the vehicle.

The tapped holes that don't pass all the way through the housing are in great shape, but are still going to be thoroughly cleaned out and chased as far as I can manage. The others now thread in like it's all brand spanking new, and the tap removed no visible metal shavings. It's hard to imagine why two Heli-Coils are present, given the condition of the rest of the threads. They're doing the job just fine, though.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
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kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Well, she's primed. Minus a few touch ups, it's ready to top coat.

I installed the cover temporarily to ensure the masking was precisely where it needed to be, to both look good, prevent corrosion at the paint line, and get a nice, solid encapsulation around areas prone to peeling over time. Remember: You want to paint around corners; just a bit. Even half a millimeter will get the job done. If the paint line stops right at an edge, it is vulnerable.

It can be tricky to make that happen around sealing surfaces, but it's possible with patience.

The best way to get that right was to install the stuff and see what I could get away with. I only had a few issues.

Part of the problem was the tape was too old, and I used masking tape and grocery bags where I should have used electrical tape and some Glad Press and Seal. Regardless, it's now over-spray-free. I was able to clean the backing plates quickly enough, but I'll need to touch up where that tape failed and lifted to block the spray.

It's not a big deal. The electrical tape will sort the problem and get me that sharp line up to the edge.

So, now it's time to test the semi-gloss (couldn't find satin, but it may be the same thing these days) on some other pitted metal to be sure I don't want to go with something flat. It only takes a few minutes to see what the result will be.

These pictures are a perfect illustration of why the surface of the metal dictates the level of gloss you need to use.

Yup... Those are the original studs, restored for many more years of use. When you're doing stuff like that, just think about restoring small parts on a firearm, and take your time while you're watching a show or something. It does take a while to build up; and I'm not quite done yet.

You can do that after paint, though. Nothing required is particularly runny. It just stays where it's put.

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I'd rather not show the cover in the shot, to preserve the final reveal, but these shots are for records of the procedure.

EDIT:

I just came back with three cans of Dupli-Color VHT chassis/roll bar paint in a satin finish. I'm pretty sure that will give me the finish I want. The axle is already protected. This is the cosmetic coat. I was hoping to have it done tonight, but I think I'm too tired. At the least, I'll pop the wheels back on and get it masked elsewhere to roll out for the final finish coats tomorrow.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
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kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Looking awesome!!

Great attention to detail

Thanks. I'm masking stuff off and on today for the final coats in a few hours.

Brake hard lines have been ordered in pre-bent stainless, and I'm about to inspect that old three way manifold to see if it's brass or steel, and if it needs to be replaced. I just ripped it all off without checking and put it in a bag to clean up when needed.

After all that's done, I'll use the time I'm waiting for the lines to show up to clean up and finish the backs of the wheels so they're nice looking and easy to clean.

I also broke down and bought the expensive lug nuts. Nothing so far has held up more than a few days. I've got a bone to pick with Doorman about that.

Every time I touch one of those, more chrome peels and flakes. Quite a few are already down to bare metal. A couple rusted so bad I had to throw them away.

If that's what they call chrome, NEVER buy a Doorman product! EVER!

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
I'll post the housing up soon, once I'm sure the finish is done. I may go back over with something flatter. Someone must have fucked with the caps at the store, because that's still semi-gloss, when the cap was absolutely matte. Whatever.

Here's the little brass manifold for the rear brakes. I couldn't polish it all the way, as I wanted to clear coat it. As well, one of the new wheel cylinders is curing right now, as I hit it with some caliper paint to prevent corrosion over time.

The mounting tab for that manifold will be painted soon, but in the meantime I'm going to try to find a clip of some variety that holds the two together. It wasn't on the car, and there's no fucking way anyone will have posted that on the webernets.

I maintain that the average old Chevrolet enthusiast has no idea what's going on inside an old Chevrolet. Books written by experts are wrong, forums are full of total bullshit, nobody knows what the fuck is going on, and some parts that should be common are completely out of production or lost.

It's easier to restore a vintage Jaguar. Anyway, here's the part as removed, and just before clear coat. The clear just adds a touch of satin, but required me to leave some scuffing there so it would stick.

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Yes, I got inside on the threads and the mating surfaces, as well; but those weren't clear coated. It should look nice up there. I don't think those pre-bent brake lines fit properly, though. What's wrong with these people?

Chevrolets pretty much just suck, and so do the parts suppliers.

Cheers,

Kennith