Head gasket delima!!!

[jprover2]

Last winter I had cylinder heads worked by a local machine shop and replaced head gaskets with AB's hg kit. I replaced every gasket from the deck of the block up. A machinist from said shop came and helped me clean up the face of the engine block. I used elgin hg and the new head bolts, I chased the threads in the block, cleaned the threads and oiled bolts. The mating surface was cleaned excessively, the heads were placed on smoothly and in one shot. Torqueing went smoothly with the bolts and block marked for each 90 deg. turn. It's been almost a year and 6,000 miles no leaks anywhere until yesterday. I saw some ugly orange on the front corner of the driver side head. Upon further inspection the front of the passenger head right in the center is damp. I'm going to tear into passenger side at least to inspect gasket. My question is, are the hg leaks ever around the front of the cylinder head? should I throw out the stretch bolts? Replace with ARP studs? I'm going to do a coolant system pressure test tomorrow when I have a chance. At the same time of the hg job I also installed new timing chain, timing gears, front cover gasket, oil pump, water pump, radiator, thermostat. Thanks in advance.

 

[WILL.TILLERY]

d2?

 

[Maximumwarp]

Have you checked your lower manifold bolts?

 

[jprover2]

Yes, 2002 D2. I have not checked manifold bolts yet.

 

[jymmiejamz]

If you followed the factory torque spec for the intake bolts, they are probably loose by now.

 

[WILL.TILLERY]

The o-ring on the passenger side for the water pipe is a spot to check as well as the underside of the throttle body on the driver side.

 

[jprover2]

If you followed the factory torque spec for the intake bolts, they are probably loose by now.

I did use the factory manual, if these have loosened what would be a recommended re-torque?

 

[ezzzzzzz]

Torque should be around 36-38 psi. That said, the intake valley gasket should have sealant applied at install. If it is leaking then a re-torque is not likely to stop the leak fully.

 

[jprover2]

Torque should be around 36-38 psi. That said, the intake valley gasket should have sealant applied at install. If it is leaking then a re-torque is not likely to stop the leak fully.

I did place sealant at the four corners of the valley pan gasket and a thin bead across the lip of the block. I'm not saying this is not what's leaking. I'm going to at least remove the a/c compressor to have a look this afternoon. I just drove about 15 miles and no sign of leakage, it may happen on cool down. I do know the coolant level in the reservoir has dropped slightly the last few times I've driven it. This being said I realize the vehicle is 15 years old, and a Land Rover.

 

[jprover2]

Ok, I removed the a/c compressor and slid the power steering bracket forward. It appears the coolant is coming from the front corner of the lower intake on drivers side. I'll remove upper intake and re-torque lower next weekend.

 

[Flyfish]

The valley pan gasket is a crush gasket. I would do nothing except for re-doing full torque sequence like a normal installation.

Then if that doesn?t work, you can start from scratch pulling the intake for a new valley gasket and sealant around the coolant passages etc.

 

[discostew]

Make sure you don't let the end clamp get in the way of the manifold.Back in the day Rover wanted us to grind the ends of the clamps to make them a little shorter. Then when I put them together I just finger tighten the end clamp bolts so that it can move around a little. Then I torque the end clamp bolts when i do the first pass torque on the lower intake.

When we worked on these things in the dealerships (Like 6 or 8 years ago)I saw this happen a lot. Make sure you have a V stamped in the top of the intake bolt or replace them. They stretch because the torque spec for them is pretty high when you consider the size of the bolt.

 

[discostew]

I don't think you should put sealant around the coolant passages. It's got that black stuff on the metal gasket. You should actually let the stuff bed in for about 5 min. before you final torque the thing.

 

[jprover2]

I've checked the leak after driving a few times and it's apparently not bad enough for me to pull the upper intake. My friends transmission shop has a coolant system pressure pump, but none of his adaptors will fit the discovery ii reservoir. If anyone knows where to purchase the adaptor for the discovery ii please let me know. I would love to have one.

 

[jymmiejamz]

The adapter is the same as BMW and should be available from Snap On, Mac, Matco, ect..

 

[jprover2]

The adapter is the same as BMW and should be available from Snap On, Mac, Matco, ect..

Thanks

 

[Flyfish]

I don't think you should put sealant around the coolant passages. It's got that black stuff on the metal gasket. You should actually let the stuff bed in for about 5 min. before you final torque the thing.

X2

 

[discostew]

I just follow service procedures. I have a high school diploma. I don't try to rethink shit for engineers.