Heater, O-Ring or Pipe or Core Replacement 01-Disco II

nolift911

Well-known member
Feb 19, 2006
403
0
Have done the research and have a question - seems the core is not "usually" the culprit rather the pipes or the o-rings at the core - OR - the pipes through the firewall.

I just know I am losing coolant and have wet carpet on passenger side, have not "dug in" - which I plan on doing (even though I just had back surgery and have the flexibility of a rigid 2X4)

All that aside I see O-ring "kits" I see heater core pipe "kits" and of course heater cores.

None of it seem ridiculously expensive in the grand scheme of Rover ownership - so what to buy? Most likley culprit as I would like to have the parts instead of having to order while truck is apart and be without the truck waiting on parts....

I have seen videos and instructions on the "full dash removal method", the "partial dash removal method" which includes the cut the pipe method.

My question revolves around if I get the heater core pipe kit does that mean full dash removal? I assume these go out into the engine bay or are there other o-ring junctions?
If I get the o-rings is that possible without damaging the aluminum pipes? Have people done this with success?

Please advise - winter is coming.

Thanks in advance -



Thanks
 

Friday Night Disco

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2018
60
7
Fall City
Have done the research and have a question - seems the core is not "usually" the culprit rather the pipes or the o-rings at the core - OR - the pipes through the firewall.

I just know I am losing coolant and have wet carpet on passenger side, have not "dug in" - which I plan on doing (even though I just had back surgery and have the flexibility of a rigid 2X4)

All that aside I see O-ring "kits" I see heater core pipe "kits" and of course heater cores.

None of it seem ridiculously expensive in the grand scheme of Rover ownership - so what to buy? Most likley culprit as I would like to have the parts instead of having to order while truck is apart and be without the truck waiting on parts....

I have seen videos and instructions on the "full dash removal method", the "partial dash removal method" which includes the cut the pipe method.

My question revolves around if I get the heater core pipe kit does that mean full dash removal? I assume these go out into the engine bay or are there other o-ring junctions?
If I get the o-rings is that possible without damaging the aluminum pipes? Have people done this with success?

Please advise - winter is coming.

Thanks in advance -



Thanks

I did the heater core replacement -> https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/tricky-dick-no-hot-air-83856/page2/

You do not have to tear the dash apart, just remove the center console, glove box, and a metal bracket. You will see how I solved the aluminum pipes
 

nolift911

Well-known member
Feb 19, 2006
403
0
Thanks for the reply - I saw another write up on that as well - I think if I need to replace the core that is the way to go.

But "if" its jut leaking at the pipes and not the core is it possible to do o-rings and or pipes or is that a non starter? Sounds like yours was clogged?
 

Friday Night Disco

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2018
60
7
Fall City
Thanks for the reply - I saw another write up on that as well - I think if I need to replace the core that is the way to go.

But "if" its jut leaking at the pipes and not the core is it possible to do o-rings and or pipes or is that a non starter? Sounds like yours was clogged?

It is possible to just do the O-rings and a new clamp but, you will still need to pull the center console, glove box, and brackets to get to the clamp to release the pipes. If you have tiny hands, maybe you can leave the center console in place. But, those O-rings and clamp is a bit challenging with little to no room.

The aluminum pipe goes from the firewall to the core, you COULD wrap the pipe at the firewall connects with a paper towel and see if the towel gets wet, just to rule that out but, I suspect the leak is probably at the O-rings.

Also - be prepared to get coolant all over the passenger side.

I had all kinds of issues with my cooling system and have basically replaced every items with the exception of the expansion tank and radiator. I can say that replacing the heater core did resolve the no heat issue so it must have been clogged.
 

nolift911

Well-known member
Feb 19, 2006
403
0
It is possible to just do the O-rings and a new clamp but, you will still need to pull the center console, glove box, and brackets to get to the clamp to release the pipes. If you have tiny hands, maybe you can leave the center console in place. But, those O-rings and clamp is a bit challenging with little to no room.

The aluminum pipe goes from the firewall to the core, you COULD wrap the pipe at the firewall connects with a paper towel and see if the towel gets wet, just to rule that out but, I suspect the leak is probably at the O-rings.

Also - be prepared to get coolant all over the passenger side.

I had all kinds of issues with my cooling system and have basically replaced every items with the exception of the expansion tank and radiator. I can say that replacing the heater core did resolve the no heat issue so it must have been clogged.

Cool, thanks so much for the response. I am at 320,000 miles, not really have cooling issues and have plenty of heat. I have never used any kind of stop leak in the rad and have always kept on top of coolant flush/changes so most likely culprit is just the o rings at the core.

Is there any value in buying the "hose pipe kit" in case I butcher/bend the pipes trying to get the o-rings replaced? I have no issue removing the center console, glove box or anything else so that is fine, BTDT, just never took the whole dash completely out.

Is there an issue getting the pipes out of the firewall where they come through the engine compartment? I think I read that for that approach the dash needs to come out due to the brackets holding the pipes on the firewall and that is why folks use the cut and join method

In my mind the ideal fix is replace the pipes with new o-rings if possible with the methods you mention above - if not will just shoot for o-rings.

One more thing - assume a full drain of the cooling system correct? Are there any hoses to disconnect in the engine bay that help with less coolant mess on the passenger side?

Thanks again so much -
 

Friday Night Disco

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2018
60
7
Fall City
Cool, thanks so much for the response. I am at 320,000 miles, not really have cooling issues and have plenty of heat. I have never used any kind of stop leak in the rad and have always kept on top of coolant flush/changes so most likely culprit is just the o rings at the core.

Is there any value in buying the "hose pipe kit" in case I butcher/bend the pipes trying to get the o-rings replaced? I have no issue removing the center console, glove box or anything else so that is fine, BTDT, just never took the whole dash completely out.

Is there an issue getting the pipes out of the firewall where they come through the engine compartment? I think I read that for that approach the dash needs to come out due to the brackets holding the pipes on the firewall and that is why folks use the cut and join method

In my mind the ideal fix is replace the pipes with new o-rings if possible with the methods you mention above - if not will just shoot for o-rings.

One more thing - assume a full drain of the cooling system correct? Are there any hoses to disconnect in the engine bay that help with less coolant mess on the passenger side?

Thanks again so much -

I did not attempt to pull out the pipes because they have angles and figured I would bend the crap out of them and never be able to get the new pipes in. Please note the aluminum pipes will bend easy so be careful.

I would say try the O-rings first and make sure you get new clamps for the fittings. Do not over tighten.

If you have some kind of hose clamp, put them on the two hoses going to the heater core and do not worry about draining the whole system. Even if you drain the system, the heater core is the lowest point and can not be drained. You can pick some clamps pretty cheap.

Once you get the hose clamps in place, disconnect one of the hoses at the heater core and drain the core with some towels and maybe a small bucket.
 
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