Help with exhaust manifold flange gasket. Please

[kade]

I searched but no infor on this gasket I could see.

2000 D2 4.0.

So guys I’ve located a exhaust leak on the passenger side exhaust manifold flange where it attaches to the down pipe.

I ordered the gaskets and attempted to remove the studs tonight. I got one out but the other just had the nut come off. I assume I can get the other stud out tomorrow with pliers or vice grips to start loosing it. BUT.... I have some questions

I had a hard time tightening the side I got ou whenreplacing it. It kept wanting to back out.

Any tricks on getting these studs to go in and tighten up properly?

Really any useful info regarding this swap would be appreciated

 

[jymmiejamz]

Why do you want to remove the studs and not just the nuts?

 

[kade]

I can’t change the gasket without taking the studs out right? It’s the little studs that are threaded on both ends. One end screws the two pieces together and the other end allows the nut to snug them up I guess.

It’s where the manifold meets the y pipe

I tried again yesterday after spraying the stud a couple of Times. But no dice.

I guess I should order replacement studs and just prepare for battle on the rogue one.

 

[jymmiejamz]

There is no need to replace the studs unless they are broken.

Remove the six downpipe nuts and you can lower the downpipe enough to replace the gaskets. You can use a light dab of grease or RTV to hold it in place while you reinstall everything (it will smoke a lot as it burns off).

 

[Friday Night Disco]

There is no need to remove, however, if you need to remove or replace them...use two nuts and put them on the stud and tighten the nuts against each other. use the bottom nut to tighten stud and the upper nut to loosen stud

I had to replace mine because they snapped off when trying to remove the flange nuts.

 

[kade]

Thanks guys.

I’ll report back if I can’t get it changed.

There is only two nuts where the gasket is. I’ll look for the six bolts you speak of and try to do it that way.

 

[Friday Night Disco]

Thanks guys.

I’ll report back if I can’t get it changed.

There is only two nuts where the gasket is. I’ll look for the six bolts you speak of and try to do it that way.

There are 3 studs on each side of the Y pipe requiring 3 nuts per side.

 

[fishEH]

Are we betting how many studs shear off?
Use an impact and zip the nuts off. My guess is you'll shear two, walk two studs out, and get two nuts off.

 

[ptschram]

Sigh.

Any more, I just expect to shear them all off and plan for it.

My mill is just barely big enough to fit an exhaust manifold on the table to allow me mill the broken stud out and fly cut the mating surface true.

If new manifolds didn't cost an arm, a leg and a house payment, I wouldn't bother.


If you need head to manifold gaskets, I have them in stock, but beware, exhaust manifold bolts is how I got really good at installing heli-coils LOL

 

[Tugela]

Minor thread resurrection. Last week I replaced the passenger side exhaust manifold to cylinder head gaskets and the cat-back exhaust. So far, so good, although reinstallation of the exhaust manifold bolts took lots of patience and delicacy to avoid stripping threads. I don't want to repeat that process.

The final piece in my exhaust puzzle is the Y-pipe to exhaust manifold gasket. I have new gaskets, studs, and nuts. From reading this (and other threads here) it sounds like the best approach will be to leave the exhaust manifold tight in place against the cylinder head instead of loosening those bolts to get more wiggle room at the Y-pipe junction. The only other material it sounds like I should have on hand is hi-temp sealant.

Any other strategy tips? The challenges I anticipate include:

1. Accessing the nuts on the flange studs - any special tools or techniques to get at these? Advance soaking is a given.
2. Having enough play in the y-pipe to separate the flange to remove the old gasket and insert the new one.
3. Replacing the studs: should I bother? New nuts are a given.
4. Keeping the Y-pipe flange mating surface even with the exhaust manifold surface when re-tightening. I don't want to go through all this only to find a gap (and leak) when I turn the engine on at the end of the project. Tighten opposing nuts incrementally, alternating nuts to keep surfaces even?

Any suggestions or lessons from prior experience appreciated. I'd like to do this with the minimum of rearranging other components if possible.

 

[fishEH]

6pt socket, some extensions, and an impact gun. Either the nut will come off, or the stud will.

Minor thread resurrection. Last week I replaced the passenger side exhaust manifold to cylinder head gaskets and the cat-back exhaust. So far, so good, although reinstallation of the exhaust manifold bolts took lots of patience and delicacy to avoid stripping threads. I don't want to repeat that process.

The final piece in my exhaust puzzle is the Y-pipe to exhaust manifold gasket. I have new gaskets, studs, and nuts. From reading this (and other threads here) it sounds like the best approach will be to leave the exhaust manifold tight in place against the cylinder head instead of loosening those bolts to get more wiggle room at the Y-pipe junction. The only other material it sounds like I should have on hand is hi-temp sealant.

Any other strategy tips? The challenges I anticipate include:

1. Accessing the nuts on the flange studs - any special tools or techniques to get at these? Advance soaking is a given.
2. Having enough play in the y-pipe to separate the flange to remove the old gasket and insert the new one.
3. Replacing the studs: should I bother? New nuts are a given.
4. Keeping the Y-pipe flange mating surface even with the exhaust manifold surface when re-tightening. I don't want to go through all this only to find a gap (and leak) when I turn the engine on at the end of the project. Tighten opposing nuts incrementally, alternating nuts to keep surfaces even?

Any suggestions or lessons from prior experience appreciated. I'd like to do this with the minimum of rearranging other components if possible.

 

[WaltNYC]

soak it all in PB Blaster for a couple days prior to starting.

 

[jymmiejamz]

Only replace the studs if they come out when you try to remove the nuts. Unless you have a torch, you won't be able to replace the studs.

 

[ukoffroad]

Just did this, sheared two. Will Tillery has them at a good price with new studs.

 

[Tugela]

Just did this, sheared two. Will Tillery has them at a good price with new studs.

He does indeed, as I purchased a set myself a couple weeks ago.

 

[Tugela]

Project complete with no detours. Hardware removal was straightforward. 2 nuts came off with a little persuasion, the third was frozen to the stud and the stud came out with it. No shearing, no stripping, only hand tools used. Thank the Rover gods for west coast trucks. The biggest hassle was wrangling the Y-pipe back into position to align the holes with the studs on the exhaust manifold flange.

I lay under the truck and pulled the Y-pipe towards the ground, creating enough clearance for a friend to slot the new gasket onto the studs and hold it flush against the manifold surface. There isn't much room between the frame rail and front drive shaft to get a good grip on the Y-pipe, but I ended up pushing against the muffler with my foot while pulling/pushing with my hands to exert force in 2 dimensions simultaneously. It wasn't pretty and I'm sure that better mechanics than me have a more elegant technique, but the bottom line is this: I replaced the gasket and hardware with only having to remove the nuts/stud at the Y-pipe/manifold flange. Now I'm ready to be done with the Disco's exhaust for a while.

 

[discostew]

I heat the nuts up and blast them out with an impact. Get the nut red hot and it comes off.

 

[jymmiejamz]

I heat the nuts up and blast them out with an impact. Get the nut red hot and it comes off.

I always use an impact too. It seems like the guys in the shop who are always breaking exhaust studs are taking them out by hand.

 

[Tugela]

For argument's sake let's say you have a sheared stud in the manifold/Y-pipe flange. Orientation is too awkward for drilling it out. Which approach is less risky for extracting it?

1. Torch the stud where it sits, leaving everything else in place.
2. Remove the manifold and drill it out on the bench.

I've had the manifold off in the last couple months to replace the exhaust gasket and I reinstalled hardware to spec with antiseize on the threads so I'm confident the hardware will come out just fine. Last time I had a tough time reinstalling the hardware - getting all the bolts to align in just the right way to avoid cross-threading was a challenge. I'm leaning towards the torch since I don't want to repeat the hassle and stress of reinstalling the hardware again. What would DiscoWeb do?

 

[jymmiejamz]

If you had a tough time getting the manifold aligned to the cylinder head the manifolds have probably shrunk. It seems to be more common on 14CUX trucks from my experience. I usually just replace them with some used ones from Will.

I don't like drilling them out. A torch is the only way to do it in my opinion. I always pull the manifold to do that.