High beam +12v wire color?

Some Dude

Well-known member
Feb 12, 2009
1,590
0
Boise, ID
I'm trying to tap into the 12v wire that runs the high beams to use it as a trigger for some rack lights. I'm working on the passenger side. Before I cut into that bad boy, I wanted to run it by the committee to make sure I'm cutting the right wire. By my math it's blue with an orange stripe. Anyone see a reason I can't splice into that wire and run my lead back to the relays to fire my rack lights?

Gracias.
 
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cosmic88

Well-known member
Sep 15, 2010
436
0
Florida
yes sir, rave sez...

feed from fuse 22 to the RH high beam is the blue with orange trace (UO).

I sez... the splice / signal wire goes to the 86 pin on the relay if it is a bosch or Hella lamp relay.
 

jgdisco2

Well-known member
Feb 24, 2006
890
23
Goldsboro, NC
Some Dude said:
. Anyone see a reason I can't splice into that wire and run my lead back to the relays to fire my rack lights?

Gracias.
There's no problem with doing that but you will only be able to run your rack lights with the brights on, not anytime you want
 

cosmic88

Well-known member
Sep 15, 2010
436
0
Florida
Huh? I think he just wants the rack lights to come on everytime he switches the highbeam lights on. That uo wire is just acting as a switch trigger and not the lamp supply.
 
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MR.T

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
119
0
chapel hill
a word of caution, but it only applies when you have your daytime running lights programmed to come on, which i do. i just mounted two hella 1000's behind the grill and for the time being, i did this exact splice. they work great, when i switch to my high beams they come right on and light up the night. but when i'm just riding around in the daytime with my headlights switched off, the hellas will stay illuminated. my guess is that the daytime running lights must be powered by the high beam positive, but there only seems to be barely enough voltage to activate the hella relay. i say this because sometimes they come on during the day (about 90% of the time) and every once in awhile they won't.

that splice was just temporary though. i'll be doing a proper distribution block and new battery soon enough. just waiting to get the parts.
 

MR.T

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
119
0
chapel hill
Some Dude said:
I'm trying to tap into the 12v wire that runs the high beams to use it as a trigger for some rack lights. I'm working on the passenger side. Before I cut into that bad boy, I wanted to run it by the committee to make sure I'm cutting the right wire. By my math it's blue with an orange stripe. Anyone see a reason I can't splice into that wire and run my lead back to the relays to fire my rack lights?

Gracias.
that is definitely the right wire. if you don't have a multimeter, you should go buy a cheap one.

pull the socket plug off of the connection at the headlight bulb. switch your brights on and stick one end of the multimeter in one of the three female connections, eenie meenie miney moe. stick the other probe to a ground (socket ground, truck body or chassis) whichever wire is your positive high beam should be evident when you get the 14V on the meter.

if this is a permanent job use a solder gun and some heat shrink. good luck
 

Some Dude

Well-known member
Feb 12, 2009
1,590
0
Boise, ID
I used a butt splice and some electrical tape. It's not a permanent job in that I want it to last more than a couple months. I don't have the switch setup I want yet, but wanted to be able to activate the lights for the time being.

I cut into the blue/orange wire at the headlight connector. My relays are mounted in the battery box near the jack, so that made the most sense. I would have preferred to go in at the fuse, but that wire is fused in the passenger compartment and I didn't want to run feet of wire to the relay when inches would suffice if I tapped it closer to the battery.

Everything is working exactly as expected at this point. I will eventually throw some aux switches in the mix so I can run the lights independent of the high beams, but I've spent enough on this project for this month. Running them with the brights works for now. On that note they're bright as fuck. I'm running 4x Hella 4ks. I took them out and ran 35 miles off road last night and I absolutely can't believe how bright they are. Money well spent.

Thanks for the advice guys.
 

cosmic88

Well-known member
Sep 15, 2010
436
0
Florida
Just be cautious when using your high beams as a signal to other drivers when you want them to move or go or whatever. If cop sees those rack lights come on in traffic you may get pulled over for a little "conversation" depending on local laws and his mood at that moment.

Also, how many relays are you using to power those 4 x 4K hellas? And what did you use as the power supply for the lamps? Straight from batt to an inline fuse then to the 30 pin on the relays?
 

Some Dude

Well-known member
Feb 12, 2009
1,590
0
Boise, ID
I don't regularly flash high beams at anyone for any reason. The only thing I can think of is when a semi is trying to get in my lane and I can see the driver checking his rearview to see if it's clear. I've got the white covers on them. If I accidentally hit the bright switch, I won't blind anyone.

You nailed it on the wiring. Two 5-pin Bosch relays, two 30 amp inline fuses. One relay for the pencils, one for the corners. 12 guauge wire all around. The circuit is independent of anyting else and goes straight to the accessory post on my battery.

All I have left to do is figure out a permanent switch setup and build a quick disconnect into my wiring at the top of the windshield in case I ever need to take the rack off.
 
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MR.T

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
119
0
chapel hill
Some Dude said:
I don't regularly flash high beams at anyone for any reason. The only thing I can think of is when a semi is trying to get in my lane and I can see the driver checking his rearview to see if it's clear. I've got the white covers on them. If I accidentally hit the bright switch, I won't blind anyone.

You nailed it on the wiring. Two 5-pin Bosch relays, two 30 amp inline fuses. One relay for the pencils, one for the corners. 12 guauge wire all around. The circuit is independent of anyting else and goes straight to the accessary post on my battery.

All I have left to do is figure out a permanent switch setup and build a quick disconnect into my wiring at the top of the windshield in case I ever need to take the rack off.

i read this a while back. pretty helpful. he has the roof rack quick disconnect you referred to.

http://www.discovery2.co.uk/roofracklights.html