How to Reseal a DII Power Steering Pump

I HATE PONIES

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2006
4,864
0
I did the reseal on mine before this thread was around. I couldn't find any info or the gaskets. As a result I did a bit of trial and error.

To clean up the pump I plugged off the holes and put it in the blast box to clean it up. DO NOT DO THIS! I think I got all the sand out after a complete teardown.:banghead:

It is fairly simple to take apart and put back together if you have the gaskets. I put some RTV on mine but never installed it as the replacement quit leaking.
 

jafir

Well-known member
May 4, 2011
1,628
0
Northwest Arkansas
KyleT said:
Oh and running ATf instead of ace fluid kills those pumps fast.

RAVE says you can use ATF instead of ACE fluid.

ACE fluid
Where ambient temperature falls below -20? C (-4?
F), use only Texaco cold climate power assisted
steering fluid PSF 14315. Where ambient
temperature remains above -20? C (-4? F), use either
Texaco cold climate power assisted steering fluid ,
Dexron 11 or Dexron 111 non-synthetic fluid
 

Keanan

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2010
219
1
Redlands, CA
ATF probably works just fine. I have just been using basic Power Steering Fluid, it hasn't presented any problems so far.
 

KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
39
Fort Worth, TEXAS
ok.... my version says:
"PAS/ACE fluid
Use Texaco cold climate power assisted steering
fluid 14315"

i have seen quite a few leaking that had atf. and not alot leaking that still had ace fluid. the detergents in the ATF eat the seals. this is from land rover.

gm corvette cold climate fluid is still texaco. iirc the "new" ace fluid isnt texaco. also the CHF11S(? Gem knows which one)) is a replacement for ace fluid as well.
 

jafir

Well-known member
May 4, 2011
1,628
0
Northwest Arkansas
KyleT said:
ok.... my version says:
"PAS/ACE fluid
Use Texaco cold climate power assisted steering
fluid 14315"

Well and what is funny is that it says you can use ATF for ACE, but you have to use ACE fluid ie cold climate whatever for PS.
 

KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
39
Fort Worth, TEXAS
jafir said:
In person or in the manual?
Manual. But ya in person too I guess. Oh not talking about the owners manual. It's not reliable. When there is a tsb because the owners manual is wrong, throw it out.
 

turbodave

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2008
325
3
KY
Thank you so much for the how-to. I did not know there were some kind of seal kits available.
Front bearing is a 6303. I know because in my 300Tdi RRC my ZF power steering pump exploded (2 yr old gen-you-wine one) so the axle came out complete with pulley, ear and bearing, leaving just the seal behind

There could be a chance to heat up the flange and take it out using a press, being able to renew the bearing and seal thus ending with an almost brand new pump.

That pump is made by Hoburn eaton, in 2 halves, easier to rebuild than the ZF all aluminum one
Best regards and thanks again
Robert

For reference, The front bearing in the D2 pumps is 42od x 15id x 13 wd, making it a 6302. I have checked two separate D2 pumps; both are the same.
 

CBRacerX

New member
Dec 12, 2013
1
0
New Hope, PA
Excellent write up, I'm about to tackle the job and this is just what I was looking for.

And the amusement factor for the writing I'll put at a 10 - very funny :)
 

turbodave

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2008
325
3
KY
FWIW, I'd go ahead and change the bearing if doing this job. Purchase a good quality SKF / KOYO / FAG bearing and make it a lifetime repair. It is important to measure the reference height of the shaft before pressing it out however...
 
Sigh.

For those of you who remember back to the time when I was banned, you'll know I earned Cheap Bastard of the Year award three years running for a reason.

After having spent more time than I'd like working in dealerships (Rover and others) I have about been completely cured of Cheap Bastard-itis. The first symptom that goes away when one is cured is that one no longer carries a trailer full of spare parts when wheeling and the inventory of used parts dwindles significantly.

It takes exactly the same amount of time to R&R the pump whether one is replacing seals or merely replacing the entire pump. The time spent replacing the seals is (IMO) better spent earning the $261 price difference between the pump and the seals. If you were to buy the pump from me and it should fail within the first 12 months after I shipped it to you, the worst you'd experience would be my "no questions asked, but please be patient while I wait for another one to be shipped in to me" parts warranty. And, for the record, this policy existed long before I started slinging Chrome with Snap-On.

W/R/T the front shaft bearing: I am more than a little hesitant to suggest one do this and really don't want to share how the tool was built because I have seen the shafts shear and I am still amazed that the carnage was not far more severe than what I've observed.

W/R/T ATF versus PS fluid: Early DII and P38s both had owners manuals that indicated that unless one was regularly in an environment where ambient temps fell well below what we'd typically experience in the US, ATF was an acceptable substitute for both PAS and SLABS. I have observed more problems with leaking and pump failures where folks used "Power Steering Fluid" intended for other marques where they really did have more specific needs-my wife's old Acura comes to mind where they specified some exotic PAS fluid and woe be unto you if you strayed.

Also, if you have a reman PAS box, be aware that if you have a warranty claim, make sure you only indicate that you have a stock pump and use ATF as your fluid, otherwise you run a risk of having your warranty claim denied. It only happened once, but I had a steering box warranty declined for a client who had done the GM pump swap. When the box warranty was declined, I installed an aftermarket OE style pump and a new gearbox and that vehicle is in my forecourt right now where we have just done yet another periodic maintenance/service and this client has been a returning client for going on 12 years now. A beautiful '95 Classic that I'm proud to be keeping on the road still.
 

bendts

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2015
277
18
Farmland
While my motor was in 100's of parts i did order this gasket kit - Did the rebuild of the PS pump in about 20 minutes - So far so good, no leaks yet and the groaning is gone.

Used this fluid -
Pentosin CHF 11S power steering fluid​
 

gundog

New member
Sep 2, 2015
1
0
Salt Lake City
One question - I used the same kit to rebuild my pump, got it put back in and running. However, I dont seem to have any power assist. I have primed using the turn-the-wheel priming method and the fluid is swirling in the tank, but still no assist. I have seen a video where the author resets the spring valve with a screwdriver. Please explain what that does and could that be my problem? I don't recall messing with that when I had it apart.

2001 Disco II SE 156k miles, stock
 

ubuntu

Well-known member
Apr 16, 2014
225
1
Mosquito Alley
That video shows the person assembling a pump, the spring needs to be compressed to reassemble the thing, that's all.
That kit was a failure for me, $30 wasted.
 

JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
767
95
Suffolkshire, UK
Reviving an oldie but goodie...
Has anyone tried to drill out the 27mm HP outlet fitting in the PAS pump from the 3.2mm ID to a larger ID?
This guy Bowie69 did it on his swapped P38 PAS pump ...
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/70934-opening-up-a-power-steering-pump-or-box/#elControls_609216_menu
photo+4%281%29.JPG
 
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