This wiring setup drove me absolutely crazy. It only took me about 1 hour to hook up the PIAA 580 driving lights that I purchased for my ARB bumper and to run the wire into the cabin. However, it took me about 2 weeks to figure out how to hook them up to an OEM light switch inside the cabin. It is very complicated and it took forever to figure out what the pins inside the OEM switch did and how to hook them up to a relay. Hopefully, I can save you guys some of the anguish.
Parts needed:
1 Cruise control switch ($30)
1 Aux light switch ($12)
1 30A automotive 4 post relay ($4)
1 Wire harness for the 4 post relay ($5) (makes wiring easier but not absolutely necessary)
assorted crimp on connectors ($5)
First, go to an LR dealer and get a cruise control switch and an aux light switch. The auxiliary light switch has a headlight design stamped on it but with the number "2" written on it. My LR parts guy pulled one out of an aux lighting kit and simply ordered a new one to replace the part he took out of the kit. I think I paid 12 bucks for the switch. However, the switch is one of those "momentary" switches like the rear fog light switch. In other words, it's a pain in the ass to work with. The only way to use that original switch is to order the special relays that work with momentary switches, but that's more trouble than it's worth, in my opinoin. Take the button cover off of the aux light switch and replace the button cover on the cruise control switch. (If you don't really care about how the switch looks you can simply keep the cruise control switch as is and save 12 bucks. However, for those of us who are anal, you'll want each button to mark exactly what it does.) The cruise control switch is used instead of the original switch because it is a click on and click off switch that doesn't need any fancy relays to work.
I don't know where to get a wire harness to connect to the back of the switch. Personally, I used a wire harness from the park distance control switch that is an option that is not installed in my truck. I cut the wires that go back into the binnacle and I attached new crimp on connectors. If you had to, I suppose that you could solder the connections onto the switch or use special mini spade-type connectors. Any of you guys out there who installed new front bumpers don't need this switch anymore anyway because your parking distance sensors were elminated.
Install your aux lights as directed by the manufacturer. I installed PIAA lights, but I assume that most manufacturer's lights would be roughly the same. The provided PIAA light switch is ugly and the length of the provided wire is too short to go from the battery to the driver's side of the cabin, so you'll have to cut off the original switch and splice in a 3-wire cable to the end of the wire that comes out of the PIAA relay. Moreover, what engineering moron at PIAA decided to use a red LED when the light was "ON" and a green light when it was "OFF"? Shouldn't it be the other-way around? Anyway, I digress....
I found a cable with red/green/white wires so I matched up the corresponding red and white wires, and then connected the green wire to the PIAA black wire (ground). I ran this cable into the cabin via the grommet on the right-hand side of the hood (if you are looking up from the headlights towards the passenger cabin). The grommet looks like a large rubber oval that has a big hose sticking out of it. Most of the electrical connections into the cabin come into the fusebox via this path.
Assuming you found a way to get the 3-wire cable from the headlight relay into the cabin and out of the binnacle switch opening you would next need to run the wires from the relay wire harness from inside the dash back out through the same binnacle switch opening. You should have 7 wires sticking out of the binnacle switch opening (4 from the relay and 3 from the 3-wire cable).
OK...time to splice into two different wires. First, find an adjacent switch and pull it out. Using a multimeter, find which lead energizes when you turn on the light switch on the stalk. This will be the lead that you need to splice into to run power to the aux light switch so that it lights up green at night. I found that most of the switches have the same configuration...so look for a red wire (maybe with a stripe) running into the #2 pin on the back of the adjacent switch. Second, tap into the high power feed coming out of the 30A relay (yellow wire) and run this into the #5 pin on the back of the switch. This wire will energize when the lights are on and will turn on the orange LED on the switch.
Connect the #1 pin on the switch to the white wire on the relay (85). This is the wire that actually sends the signal out of the switch for the lights to turn on. Connect the #4 pin on the switch to the ground wire coming from the AUX lighting relay (in my pictures it is green instead of black).
Splice the black and blue lines coming from the relay (30 & 86) together and connect these to the red wire coming from the AUX lighting relay.
Lastly, connect the yellow wire on the relay (87) to the white wire coming from the AUX lighting relay. This last wire is the one that sends the signal to the PIAA relay under the hood to turn on the lights when the switch is depressed.
Got it so far?
It should look like this before you push everything back into the binnacle switch opening.
Note: I used a 5 post relay but did not use the red lead (87a). That's why there is a little stub of red wire sticking out of the relay in the picture. Also it is a little confusing because there are two relays involved. The 30A relay that you purchased and that goes in the dash and the included relay that came with your after-market lighting install kit that got installed under the hood.
If you hooked everything up correctly, the lights should turn on when you press the switch. (I have aux lights tied into my high beams, so obviously my high beams would have to be actuated before the driving lights would work....some of you may have them connected directly to the positive lead on the battery.)
:applause: Pretty cool, huh?
Parts needed:
1 Cruise control switch ($30)
1 Aux light switch ($12)
1 30A automotive 4 post relay ($4)
1 Wire harness for the 4 post relay ($5) (makes wiring easier but not absolutely necessary)
assorted crimp on connectors ($5)
First, go to an LR dealer and get a cruise control switch and an aux light switch. The auxiliary light switch has a headlight design stamped on it but with the number "2" written on it. My LR parts guy pulled one out of an aux lighting kit and simply ordered a new one to replace the part he took out of the kit. I think I paid 12 bucks for the switch. However, the switch is one of those "momentary" switches like the rear fog light switch. In other words, it's a pain in the ass to work with. The only way to use that original switch is to order the special relays that work with momentary switches, but that's more trouble than it's worth, in my opinoin. Take the button cover off of the aux light switch and replace the button cover on the cruise control switch. (If you don't really care about how the switch looks you can simply keep the cruise control switch as is and save 12 bucks. However, for those of us who are anal, you'll want each button to mark exactly what it does.) The cruise control switch is used instead of the original switch because it is a click on and click off switch that doesn't need any fancy relays to work.
I don't know where to get a wire harness to connect to the back of the switch. Personally, I used a wire harness from the park distance control switch that is an option that is not installed in my truck. I cut the wires that go back into the binnacle and I attached new crimp on connectors. If you had to, I suppose that you could solder the connections onto the switch or use special mini spade-type connectors. Any of you guys out there who installed new front bumpers don't need this switch anymore anyway because your parking distance sensors were elminated.
Install your aux lights as directed by the manufacturer. I installed PIAA lights, but I assume that most manufacturer's lights would be roughly the same. The provided PIAA light switch is ugly and the length of the provided wire is too short to go from the battery to the driver's side of the cabin, so you'll have to cut off the original switch and splice in a 3-wire cable to the end of the wire that comes out of the PIAA relay. Moreover, what engineering moron at PIAA decided to use a red LED when the light was "ON" and a green light when it was "OFF"? Shouldn't it be the other-way around? Anyway, I digress....
I found a cable with red/green/white wires so I matched up the corresponding red and white wires, and then connected the green wire to the PIAA black wire (ground). I ran this cable into the cabin via the grommet on the right-hand side of the hood (if you are looking up from the headlights towards the passenger cabin). The grommet looks like a large rubber oval that has a big hose sticking out of it. Most of the electrical connections into the cabin come into the fusebox via this path.
Assuming you found a way to get the 3-wire cable from the headlight relay into the cabin and out of the binnacle switch opening you would next need to run the wires from the relay wire harness from inside the dash back out through the same binnacle switch opening. You should have 7 wires sticking out of the binnacle switch opening (4 from the relay and 3 from the 3-wire cable).
OK...time to splice into two different wires. First, find an adjacent switch and pull it out. Using a multimeter, find which lead energizes when you turn on the light switch on the stalk. This will be the lead that you need to splice into to run power to the aux light switch so that it lights up green at night. I found that most of the switches have the same configuration...so look for a red wire (maybe with a stripe) running into the #2 pin on the back of the adjacent switch. Second, tap into the high power feed coming out of the 30A relay (yellow wire) and run this into the #5 pin on the back of the switch. This wire will energize when the lights are on and will turn on the orange LED on the switch.
Connect the #1 pin on the switch to the white wire on the relay (85). This is the wire that actually sends the signal out of the switch for the lights to turn on. Connect the #4 pin on the switch to the ground wire coming from the AUX lighting relay (in my pictures it is green instead of black).
Splice the black and blue lines coming from the relay (30 & 86) together and connect these to the red wire coming from the AUX lighting relay.
Lastly, connect the yellow wire on the relay (87) to the white wire coming from the AUX lighting relay. This last wire is the one that sends the signal to the PIAA relay under the hood to turn on the lights when the switch is depressed.
Got it so far?
It should look like this before you push everything back into the binnacle switch opening.
Note: I used a 5 post relay but did not use the red lead (87a). That's why there is a little stub of red wire sticking out of the relay in the picture. Also it is a little confusing because there are two relays involved. The 30A relay that you purchased and that goes in the dash and the included relay that came with your after-market lighting install kit that got installed under the hood.
If you hooked everything up correctly, the lights should turn on when you press the switch. (I have aux lights tied into my high beams, so obviously my high beams would have to be actuated before the driving lights would work....some of you may have them connected directly to the positive lead on the battery.)
:applause: Pretty cool, huh?
