Replaced brake rotors (rear) and cleaned out/repacked bearings. Got hub assembly back on, followed directions in RAVE, and hubs are not spinning freely. If I loosen up the inner lock nut it improves, but then the hub has play. My leading hypothesis is that the fresh grease has higher viscosity and a few miles will settle everything in. My torque wrench isn't precise enough to dial in 4Nm so I am basically going on feel.
Hub reinstall - spin resistance
- Thread starter Tugela
- Start date
Define not spinning freely.
My rule of thumb is about 2/3 to 3/4 turn of the hub/rotor after a good spin.
My rule of thumb is about 2/3 to 3/4 turn of the hub/rotor after a good spin.
I've never used a torque wrench for setting the hub bearing preload. Basically you want it as loose as possible and as tight as necessary. If it is too tight the bearings will wear out prematurely and you will also have additional resistance when driving. If it is too loose, you will have in the hub. I tend to make the wheel bearings a little on the tight side for any vehicle that goes off road since if there is even a tiny amount of play, it will push the pistons back in the calliper when in the rocks.
Thanks for the feedback. I did the reinstall twice and used my Phone a Friend lifeline to a pro Rover tech. I needed a second opinion to abate my paranoia. I did everything right and the only conclusion we could reach was the grease. The hub spins, there is just more resistance than prior to disassembly. I gave it a road test and it feels fine, if anything I need to snug up the inner lock nut a hair on one side.
There was a bulletin about leaving them a little snug. It's not like an old Buick that you snug then back off to the next place you can stuff a cotter pin.
Preload is your friend on these trucks.
Preload is your friend on these trucks.