I?m getting screwed by Elias Christeas & John Gadd

landrovered

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2006
4,289
0
This thread has become a train wreck. No new information, no possible solution. Just the parties hurling insults at each other and restating their positions which have not changed.

I suggest you guys do one of the following:

1. Kiss and make up
2. Have a duel
3. Lick your wounds and get on with your lives

But you will probably just keep whining in an embarassing public way.
 

road1will

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
842
0
Atlanta, GA
DiscoIIman said:
I know Todd very well and if it was just a bad head gasket you would not be reading this thread. This is more than bad head gaskets. He has already replaced a ton of parts and still has combustion gas in the overflow. How would you feel if you where sold an engine that was stated to be in good running condition(regardless of price) only to find out that the block was bad. You can honestly say that you'd just suck it up...............right.


Yea, I would just suck it up. Just like I did when it happened to me.

And I certainly wouldn't go embarrass myself on the internet by posting a thread like this.
 

road1will

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
842
0
Atlanta, GA
landrovered said:
I suggest you guys do one of the following:

1. Kiss and make up
2. Have a duel
3. Lick your wounds and get on with your lives

But you will probably just keep whining in an embarassing public way.


Amen.
 

KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
39
Fort Worth, TEXAS
so, have you driven it? Is it overheating with the reservoir cap on?
Is your heater core clogged?

If you run it with the cap off and it gets warm it will bubble. It is a closed pressurized system.

FOR example, I ran a dye test on my P38 after a head job when I was trying to figure out why it was building pressure, it came back saying i had diesel residue or something in the coolant, turned purple, then blew the tester about 15ft in the air and lost all the coolant....
It turned out to be a nearly 100% clogged radiator. I put a new one in and there have been no issues.
 

Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
1,402
212
52
St. Louis
RoverDude said:
That's right it is. Let me remind you, I had no direct communication with you regarding the structure of this deal nor had I been copied or sent you ANY e-mails until deep into your problem (looking back on this, I should have taken the reigns). But you have the audacity to call me a liar. Not just in a private e-mail, but on a public forum. For me that crosses a certain line. In crossing that line I will no longer negotiate nor discuss any solutions with you. You've made your bed.

John,
I admit for the first several months, I was only emailing directly to Elias. Around the time you and I finally spoke, I believe I suggested he provide you with all of the communications so nobody was in the dark. If I made the mistake of assuming he kept you fully in the loop, I apologize.
 

RoverDude

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
841
0
The O.C.
www.roverdude.com
Flyfish said:
John,
I admit for the first several months, I was only emailing directly to Elias. Around the time you and I finally spoke, I believe I suggested he provide you with all of the communications so nobody was in the dark. If I made the mistake of assuming he kept you fully in the loop, I apologize.

You have completely missed the point. DO NOT assume anything. And DO NOT call anyone a liar, unless you can prove that they actually lied. For some of us, that is an accusation that will not be tolerated.
 

Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
1,402
212
52
St. Louis
RoverDude said:
You have completely missed the point. DO NOT assume anything. And DO NOT call anyone a liar, unless you can prove that they actually lied. For some of us, that is an accusation that will not be tolerated.

I think you're beginning to understand how I feel.
 

edthediscoman

Well-known member
Nov 4, 2005
1,377
0
53
Rivertucky, Ca
Determine if the engine is in fact bad:

Start cold.
Run the engine in the driveway with the CAP ON and properly filled.
Let it run for an hour, perhaps drive around the block.
Check temp.
DO NOT remove cap.

I am willing to bet the burned gas residue from the previous engine, retained in the heater core/radiator, gave you positive signals on the test for exhaust gas - as mentioned before.

Also most motors bubble with the cap off as they need the 15psi on the coolant to stop it from boiling.

Whats the worst that can happen...you end up with what you believe is a bad motor?

Best that can happen, it doesn't overheat, and your motor is fine.

With all the work so far, run it.

my 2c.

FWIW, I have bought practically every part over the past few years from John and have had great luck there - even though they are used and I realize this from the get go.
 

I HATE PONIES

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2006
4,864
0
Threads like this are the reason why my for sale add says "needs engine" instead of needs head gaskets.

500 bucks is 500 bucks. The shitty part is the 200 buck gasket kit to try it and see if it works.
 

eliaschristeas

Well-known member
Jul 6, 2006
2,441
5
Beverly HIlls
KyleT said:
so, have you driven it? Is it overheating with the reservoir cap on?
Is your heater core clogged?

If you run it with the cap off and it gets warm it will bubble. It is a closed pressurized system.

FOR example, I ran a dye test on my P38 after a head job when I was trying to figure out why it was building pressure, it came back saying i had diesel residue or something in the coolant, turned purple, then blew the tester about 15ft in the air and lost all the coolant....
It turned out to be a nearly 100% clogged radiator. I put a new one in and there have been no issues.

this may be a moot point, but lots of advice to Todd, including yours, was given to him by myself and John. Forget about our testing before it left the shop to St. Louis. Todd reports his own testing - passing wet and dry, hot and cold compression, dye, pressure, block trueness via machinist level.... no overheating - but of course - because he's paranoid, the motor is toast, right?

He simply doesnt listen, doesnt want to, and is clearly trying to resolve some kind of uneducated, panic induced agenda.

Now, for the sake of his poor door and battered ego, lets let the poor guy's thread die. this will be the last you hear from me on this. todd can say whatever he wants, he knows the truth - and now that truth is supprted from all your posts, echoing everything i've been telling him over the last several months.
 
Last edited:

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
edthediscoman said:
I am willing to bet the burned gas residue from the previous engine, retained in the heater core/radiator, gave you positive signals on the test for exhaust gas - as mentioned before.

That is what I was questioning about earlier in the thread. He needs to drive the damn thing!!:banghead:
 
This course of action was suggested on numerous occasions with no hint of acceptance on the part of the vehicle owner.

The only known symptom this vehicle exhibits is turbulence in the expansion tank.

You guys know damned well if this was my truck, I'd be driving it to the grocery store, the liquor store, the hardware store, the parts house, every short-run trip, I'd be driving it, jumping out with my non-contact thermometer to confirm/deny the condition.

Case in point, the aux fans on my '88 kick on too early to my way of thinking and the dash gague shows it running hot. I hop out with the thermometer to find it running merrily along about 160F...

I bought a gauge to put in the passenger compartment!

edthediscoman said:
Determine if the engine is in fact bad:

Start cold.
Run the engine in the driveway with the CAP ON and properly filled.
Let it run for an hour, perhaps drive around the block.
Check temp.
DO NOT remove cap.

I am willing to bet the burned gas residue from the previous engine, retained in the heater core/radiator, gave you positive signals on the test for exhaust gas - as mentioned before.

Also most motors bubble with the cap off as they need the 15psi on the coolant to stop it from boiling.

Whats the worst that can happen...you end up with what you believe is a bad motor?

Best that can happen, it doesn't overheat, and your motor is fine.

With all the work so far, run it.

my 2c.

FWIW, I have bought practically every part over the past few years from John and have had great luck there - even though they are used and I realize this from the get go.
 

Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
1,402
212
52
St. Louis
jymmiejamz said:
That is what I was questioning about earlier in the thread. He needs to drive the damn thing!!:banghead:

If I drove it and it blew, they would say I shouldn't have driven it if there was a problem.

I can't see residual fluids having an impact. I've had about 9 different gallons of coolant through it with changing all of the water pumps, radiators, valley gaskets etc.

All good suggestions by Elias, but never one to address combustion in the coolant. He must have knowledge the rest of us don't.
 

landrovered

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2006
4,289
0
You boys don't seem to want to take good advice.

You all are not increasing your esteem in the rover community at large. Every time one of you principles continue this suck ass thread you are going down a notch.

Really...