Knock Sensor
- Thread starter LRDONE
- Start date
Check with Paul Grant or Will Tillery on a used on for a much affordable price. I picked up one a couple years ago. I broke the passenger side one while removing the starter heat shield. The replacement has been fine since.
Will & Paul is the best choice. Usually the harness dies long before the sensor so nothing wrong with used. And if you are not certain yours is bad, move it to the other side and see if the problem follows.
If that doesn’t work out, they are $107 new at LRD but not sure if shipping will kill the deal.
If that doesn’t work out, they are $107 new at LRD but not sure if shipping will kill the deal.
Perfect. I actually won't even be checking them until tonight so I don't know if I'll be buying one yet or not. I've been chasing this super slight rough idle and a little bit more fuel consumption than normal. So I've been going through every sensor on the thing as I get time just to make sure everything electronically is perfect and as soon as I find something out of spec I want to be prepared to have one on the way.
Pretty sure if you had a KS issue, it would be throwing associated codes. You might want to just take a look at each spark plug. That can be very helpful.
and if you’re not sure how to read them, take a good picture of each one and post it. I make sure to keep track of them and put them back in the same place. Just a good thing to do while you’re diagnosing so you can go back and check for any changes on the plugs.
and if you’re not sure how to read them, take a good picture of each one and post it. I make sure to keep track of them and put them back in the same place. Just a good thing to do while you’re diagnosing so you can go back and check for any changes on the plugs.
That was my thought too but I didn't know if it could run a little rough right below the threshold of setting a code. 02 sensors are perfectly fine and running in closed loop, brand new plug wires, brand new copper plugs, old plugs looked great, clean graph on the TPS, Maf sensor voltage is good at idle and full throttle, IAC swapped with a known good one, Injector resistance is good and the injectors are less than a year old 4 hole bosch injectors. My next test were going to be Crank/Cam position and Knock sensors while I'm at it. I've recently noticed what sounds like the beginning signs of a rod knock and I don't know if that's just because of it idling a bit rough or not, I pulled the oil pan, nothing looked hot, no movement in the rods other than some side to side which didn't concern me. While the pan was off I checked the reluctor wheel for looseness or missing teeth and that all looked great. I should start a new thread for this but I'm not exactly stumped, I just haven't found the problem yet.
When I say the engine is idling rough I mean it runs fine but just doesn't exactly feel very balanced. Idk It may run fine and I'm just over thinking it. Absolutely zero codes.
When I say the engine is idling rough I mean it runs fine but just doesn't exactly feel very balanced. Idk It may run fine and I'm just over thinking it. Absolutely zero codes.
On the reluctor ring, you mentioned you checked for missing teeth. You want to make sure none are bent and all are lined up with the same gap.
Any rough is a miss. Whether its no spark, weak spark, no gas etc. Something is off just enough have an effect.
Could be low octane gas or cut insulation on the cam or crank sensor wires etc.
Vacuum gauge should point out where to look.
Any rough is a miss. Whether its no spark, weak spark, no gas etc. Something is off just enough have an effect.
Could be low octane gas or cut insulation on the cam or crank sensor wires etc.
Vacuum gauge should point out where to look.
Yeah, I don't have that gauge there, I'll have to check the signal with a lab scope, I'll do the same with the cam sensor. Plus a smoke and vacuum test. I actually really enjoy working on these trucks so I'll find the problem eventually. I appreciate the input!
You have the better way of checking, I just have the poor man’s lab scope. Lol. The gap is about an 1/8 inch but you can tell if everything is lined up nicely by eye, or at least see if any are really out of place. But seeing the signal also tells you that the wiring is OK which is cool.
You are close to finding the culprit so let’s see what happens with the smoke/vacuum tests. Even a dirty air filter can kill 2-3 mpg’s.
Good luck!
You are close to finding the culprit so let’s see what happens with the smoke/vacuum tests. Even a dirty air filter can kill 2-3 mpg’s.
Good luck!
Just for kicks I plugged in the auto logic tool and it let me reset fuel trim values and watch live! I snapped a picture of cold start and operating temp. I have found that 4.7v is Lean and .20v is Rich. Is this accurate information on the D1?
The one thing that caught my attention is the LT fuel trim values.
Both banks are exactly the same and both cold and hot.…. LT should be steady, but that’s a little too steady. I’m not sure what the odds are of that actually happening, but seems like some thing is goofy. That’s like Powerball odds!
Short term seems good, giving more gas during the cold default and then backing off with temperature as it should.
I don’t deal with the values a whole lot so very possible there’s a reason, I just don’t know what it is. Hopefully Robertf will provide his thoughts…
Both banks are exactly the same and both cold and hot.…. LT should be steady, but that’s a little too steady. I’m not sure what the odds are of that actually happening, but seems like some thing is goofy. That’s like Powerball odds!
Short term seems good, giving more gas during the cold default and then backing off with temperature as it should.
I don’t deal with the values a whole lot so very possible there’s a reason, I just don’t know what it is. Hopefully Robertf will provide his thoughts…
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This might be a dumb question. The Oxygen sensor connectors on the harness side, I have orange connectors and gray connectors, are they supposed to be orange on one bank, gray on the other? Because mine are opposite... It was like that when I got the truck and assumed it was correct but now I'm thinking the sensors are crossed and I hope they are because I'm thinking that's my problem.
This is how my harness is plugged into my sensors
Bank 1 sensor 1 - Orange
Bank 1 sensor 2 - Gray
Bank 2 sensor 1 - Gray
Bank 2 sensor 2 - Orange
This is how my harness is plugged into my sensors
Bank 1 sensor 1 - Orange
Bank 1 sensor 2 - Gray
Bank 2 sensor 1 - Gray
Bank 2 sensor 2 - Orange
I'll preface with this - I have not installed it yet so I don't know if it would be a viable replacement. I bumped into the housing of my knock sensor (holy cr*p that thing is brittle!) while changing my starter and ran into the sticker shock. So I dug around a bit online and cross-referenced some part #s.
It hasn't thrown any codes so I left it alone. May try to glue the casing at some point carefully.
Here is a link with the cross ref #s for some M-I-C knock off
It hasn't thrown any codes so I left it alone. May try to glue the casing at some point carefully.
Here is a link with the cross ref #s for some M-I-C knock off
SHENG TENG ELECTRON-AUTOMOTIVE RELAY, FLASHER, SWITCH, SENSOR, SWITCH AND CONTROLLER PRODUCER
Sheng Teng Electron is the qualified supplier to OEM clients and produces relays, flashers, sensors, switches, buzzers and connectors.
www.st-relay.com.tw
Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor KS307 fits 93-94 Jaguar XJS 4.0L-L6 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor KS307 fits 93-94 Jaguar XJS 4.0L-L6 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
This is great! Maybe I'll get two coming for a rainy day.I'll preface with this - I have not installed it yet so I don't know if it would be a viable replacement. I bumped into the housing of my knock sensor (holy cr*p that thing is brittle!) while changing my starter and ran into the sticker shock. So I dug around a bit online and cross-referenced some part #s.
It hasn't thrown any codes so I left it alone. May try to glue the casing at some point carefully.
Here is a link with the cross ref #s for some M-I-C knock off
SHENG TENG ELECTRON-AUTOMOTIVE RELAY, FLASHER, SWITCH, SENSOR, SWITCH AND CONTROLLER PRODUCER
Sheng Teng Electron is the qualified supplier to OEM clients and produces relays, flashers, sensors, switches, buzzers and connectors.www.st-relay.com.tw
Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor KS307 fits 93-94 Jaguar XJS 4.0L-L6 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor KS307 fits 93-94 Jaguar XJS 4.0L-L6 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
I think the sensors are backward on the bank 2. I’ll look in a bit but I swear the orange plug is pre cat / sensor 1 and the gray is post cat / sensor 2. I have heard of people swapping them from side to side but don’t know how easily that is done, but that is also worth checking. While your under there.