Lifting D1 to Replace Motor Mounts

[Casey Pontes]

Replacing the motor mounts on my 1998 D1... I've disconnected the fan shroud, removed the lower bolts on both the motor and trans mounts, placed a 2x10 under the oil pan, and attempted to lift the vehicle - via the oil pan - using a large floor jack. To my surprise, the engine did not raise... not even a centimeter. The vehicle lifted, but not the engine alone.

What am I missing? I've heard variable reports from people lifting under the oil pan (with wood blocks between the jack and oil pan) vs. lifting from the crank pulley (won't your crank seal leak, amongst other things?). If the engine will not raise using the method I've tried, why would the engine raise from lifting under the crank pulley?

Thanks!

 

[eburrows]

For the first couple of inches, the vehicle and engine will lift together, until the weight of the engine is taken up by the jack, rather than the suspension springs. The wood-on-jack method you're using should work fine. I usually do one mount at a time, leaving the other 3 mounts in place, with the nut just started to thread on. This will help tilt the engine up off the mount you want to get first, and prevent anything from shifting too much.

 

[p m]

Not sure what exactly you did. The mounts are hockey pucks with glued-on steel disks with threaded studs on both sides.
Threaded studs go through the holes on the brackets; you need to remove both top and bottom nuts to replace the mounts.
Sometimes it is easier to do it if you _also_ unbolt the brackets from either the engine block or the frame or both.

Be gentle on your oil pan. It should have lifted - looks like the mounts froze to the bracket surfaces.

 

[boxster]

Replacing the motor mounts on my 1998 D1... I've disconnected the fan shroud, removed the lower bolts on both the motor and trans mounts, placed a 2x10 under the oil pan, and attempted to lift the vehicle - via the oil pan - using a large floor jack. To my surprise, the engine did not raise... not even a centimeter. The vehicle lifted, but not the engine alone.

What am I missing? I've heard variable reports from people lifting under the oil pan (with wood blocks between the jack and oil pan) vs. lifting from the crank pulley (won't your crank seal leak, amongst other things?). If the engine will not raise using the method I've tried, why would the engine raise from lifting under the crank pulley?

Thanks!

I wouldn’t lift at the pan the crankshaft damper is a better lift point shouldn’t bother seal. Your lifting the engine and trans at the same time. Try lifting again and put a pry bar or lever to loosen.

 

[Casey Pontes]

Installed the new engine and trans mounts from Safari Gard. To achieve the engine lift required to remove the old mounts, I unscrewed the bolts from one mount and lifted the engine (on that side; utilizing the oil pan) using a 6 inch block of wood atop a trolley jack. Apparently, I have enough suspension travel to where I required a thicker block of wood than I originally used to get the engine to lift. Once the engine was lifted on the side w/ the engine mount's bolts removed, I replaced the mount and moved on to the next side.

One side at a time worked well.