little to no heat

[discostew]

What is there to disagree about?

Well first off I don't feel like anyone was acting like an ass . And then, I kind of come to this board to watch people act like an ass . I remember one ass hole who said " I know its a spun bearing cause I know " and that ended up being a insert from a valve cover gasket bouncing off the top of a piston . That noise is nothing at all like a spun bearing . Then that same guy comes back around to be a damn expert .
Now I admit that I just sell ice cream out of a push cart in Chicago . But , I do have some costumers that work in a Land Rover Dealership and over the years those guys were able to teach me a lot about these trucks . Still not an expert but getting there slowly.

 

[ozscott]

....maybe instead of just saying you dont have to pull the dash to replace the matrix you should tell us how its done...or do you like the idea that i or someone else would follow up on your post and ask you.

 

[seventyfive]

Could have an air pocket, but the only time I've seen DII's that have a full expansion tank and still have air in the heater core is when the block is cracked. I've seen this on three DII's. I don't know if they had heating issues, but they definitely made the water running through the dash noise.



If the heater matrix was blocked then he wouldn't have heat when driving or at idle. You don't have to pull the dash to replace the matrix.



It might be cheap and easy, but why just throw parts at it for no reason?



Are they expensive now? Last time I bought one through Land Rover it was under $15.

Personally ive only done one heater core on a D2, which was my own truck. I ended up cutting the bracket, that holds the aluminum pipes to the evap/heater box...pulled the pipes out so i could just pull the heater core out like on an older BMW. The funny thing is my heater core wasnt leaking it was actually the pipes! They had pin holes up by where the bracket was.

How do you get the heater core out without cutting that bracket?

 

[discostew]

He never said he used any type of head gasket in a bottle. Stop being counterproductive jackass. Yes you posted some really good reasons for his coolant system. No reason to be an ass, when someone is asking for help.

This is what I disagree with . Sorry for the confusion.

 

[jymmiejamz]

....maybe instead of just saying you dont have to pull the dash to replace the matrix you should tell us how its done...or do you like the idea that i or someone else would follow up on your post and ask you.

It sounded like you had already replaced yours and wouldn't need a method.

Personally ive only done one heater core on a D2, which was my own truck. I ended up cutting the bracket, that holds the aluminum pipes to the evap/heater box...pulled the pipes out so i could just pull the heater core out like on an older BMW. The funny thing is my heater core wasnt leaking it was actually the pipes! They had pin holes up by where the bracket was.

How do you get the heater core out without cutting that bracket?

I've only done one and another tech showed me how. Doesn't that bracket unbolt? Its been so long I can't even remember what was needed to be done to access it. The most important thing to do is make sure you don't damage the heater pipes, because if you do, you will be pulling the dash and buying new heater pipes. They bend very easily. There is just barely enough room to pull the heater core back and slide it out the passenger side. Another trick is to reuse the old clamps. It is absolutely essential that you use a pozi-drive bit on the clamp bolts because the bolts are very soft and a phillips bit will strip them out easily.

 

[seventyfive]

I've only done one and another tech showed me how. Doesn't that bracket unbolt? Its been so long I can't even remember what was needed to be done to access it. The most important thing to do is make sure you don't damage the heater pipes, because if you do, you will be pulling the dash and buying new heater pipes. They bend very easily. There is just barely enough room to pull the heater core back and slide it out the passenger side. Another trick is to reuse the old clamps. It is absolutely essential that you use a pozi-drive bit on the clamp bolts because the bolts are very soft and a phillips bit will strip them out easily.

The bracket unbolts BUT it unbolts from the firewall side which I could not get anything on, so I used my little air saw to cut the bracket from the box....more than enough room with a small air saw.

Instead of the Phillips head screws I used 4mm Allen head screws so I could use a long 1/4" extension and use some ribbon seal to hold the Allen head screw to my socket....that way I could keep the v-clamp squeezed tight and keep it from moving while I was tightening the clamp.

The new clamps, which also come with the pipes, are definitely worse than the original clamps.

 

[ChrismonDA]

Well first off I don't feel like anyone was acting like an ass . And then, I kind of come to this board to watch people act like an ass . I remember one ass hole who said " I know its a spun bearing cause I know " and that ended up being a insert from a valve cover gasket bouncing off the top of a piston . That noise is nothing at all like a spun bearing . Then that same guy comes back around to be a damn expert .
Now I admit that I just sell ice cream out of a push cart in Chicago . But , I do have some costumers that work in a Land Rover Dealership and over the years those guys were able to teach me a lot about these trucks . Still not an expert but getting there slowly.

Then why did you have to post this long and boring post? Costumers? Don't you mean customers? Anyway I try to back up a fellow member and he gets pounded with negative comments. The guy was only asking for help and the three stooges show up to belittle him. Just saying. If I have upset you in anyway? I apologize.