Lockers, axles, gears, and tires... it's time

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Potentially a good deal, but I'm going to go with 4.12's for now and not mess with the transfer case. 4.75's would be brutal
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,927
201
Lake Villa, IL
So I have a 150 psi dual compressor and 2 gal tank setup, with a manifold installed under the truck near the rear driver quarter panel. The manifold receives tank pressure.

Do I need to regulate the pressure down for the Ashcroft lockers? Something like this? https://powertank.com/products/adjustable-barrel-regulator
Yes, you'll want to step it down to whatever Ashcroft recommends. In my opinion you should lose the 2 gallon tank too.
First, you don't need that much to actuate lockers.
Second, it's not big enough for filling tires. The compressor will kick on within a few seconds of starting to air up and will run pretty much non stop until you're finished.
I ran a much smaller tank with my Ashcrofts and it worked great.
 

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Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Yes, you'll want to step it down to whatever Ashcroft recommends. In my opinion you should lose the 2 gallon tank too.
First, you don't need that much to actuate lockers.
Second, it's not big enough for filling tires. The compressor will kick on within a few seconds of starting to air up and will run pretty much non stop until you're finished.
I ran a much smaller tank with my Ashcrofts and it worked great.

I know I don't need that much for lockers, it's just what I'm running now. Viair Dual 400c with two water traps I added to protect the compressors

I hear you, but the tank does come in handy. With the tank full, I can fill the first tire in a few seconds. by the time I switch over to air the other side, the 3rd tire is also filled pretty fast. I also use it with my grease gun. Worth it? I dunno

My kit from Lucky 8 came with the solenoids for both lockers.

solenoids are different from regulating pressure
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,163
62
Raleigh, NC
I know I don't need that much for lockers, it's just what I'm running now. Viair Dual 400c with two water traps I added to protect the compressors

I hear you, but the tank does come in handy. With the tank full, I can fill the first tire in a few seconds. by the time I switch over to air the other side, the 3rd tire is also filled pretty fast. I also use it with my grease gun. Worth it? I dunno



solenoids are different from regulating pressure
You're right, I forgot the ARB compressor comes with a pressure regulator
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
Oh, I didn't know the 4.0 pistons were compatible with the 4.6 setup. Yeah I have a good block, I top-hatted and rebuilt it about 2 years ago, $450 valve job, the works. Runs really good.. just not enough power and burning maybe a quart/600 miles for unknown reasons. Maybe Gasflowed Turner heads would help, but I'm dubious.

Dammit, no, I'm definitely not tearing down the engine again anytime soon, as much as I'd like to..

I can appreciate not wanting to tear it apart again, but if you already have an oil consumption issue, that's a pretty good reason.

My truck burns oil on deceleration which I think is due to the rockers hitting the valve seals (too much machined off of the heads). They make shims to correct this.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
I can appreciate not wanting to tear it apart again, but if you already have an oil consumption issue, that's a pretty good reason.

My truck burns oil on deceleration which I think is due to the rockers hitting the valve seals (too much machined off of the heads). They make shims to correct this.

How did you know it was on deceleration? Was it that noticeable out of the tailpipe?

I'm thinking, hoping, it's just the valve stem seals, because it's one thing of course that I didn't do myself (ok, I didn't top hat the block or deck the heads either). Going to pull the plugs tomorrow morning and see if there's any oil pooling on the pistons... any other ideas? Compression is bang on, 175 all around. Only other engine issue is sort of low vacuum.. 13.5 hg
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
How did you know it was on deceleration? Was it that noticeable out of the tailpipe?

I'm thinking, hoping, it's just the valve stem seals, because it's one thing of course that I didn't do myself (ok, I didn't top hat the block or deck the heads either). Going to pull the plugs tomorrow morning and see if there's any oil pooling on the pistons... any other ideas? Compression is bang on, 175 all around. Only other engine issue is sort of low vacuum.. 13.5 hg

On road, if you go down a hill with my foot off the gas for a long stretch, when I accelerate there is a good puff of smoke. Off road, when engine braking for extended periods, I get continuous smoke. As far as I know, the only things it could be are rings or valve seals. I doubt it is rings since I put new ones in when I did the top hat liners and I've had this issue for a long time.

My engine is super high compression. Last time I did a compression check it was 230 psi on all cylinders dry.

FYI, I never see any oil on my plugs.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Diffs ordered, eta 3 weeks. Still deciding on tires

For the air supply I ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FQ0F7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

which will plug into the manifold behind the rear quarter panel: https://www.viaircorp.com/air-accessories/manifold

It seemed like the most compact durable solution. A knob regulator would be overkill and prone to breakage

Is it worth teeing an air line off to the dash and installing a gauge? One of those things that's nice to know...
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Get a blow off valve set at 80 psi as well I put the barrel regulator to a T with the blow out valve and push fitting and a spigot to the Powertank on the other end of the Regulator it acts as a handle when you remove it

Good call on the blow off valve, won't need a gauge with that in

So it's... Manifold --> Barrel regulator --> Tee --> (blow off valve, push fitting to tube, then Y-push fitting near the frame rail to each locker)

Not following you on the spigot and powertank handle thingy
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,927
201
Lake Villa, IL
Good call on the blow off valve, won't need a gauge with that in

So it's... Manifold --> Barrel regulator --> Tee --> (blow off valve, push fitting to tube, then Y-push fitting near the frame rail to each locker)

Not following you on the spigot and powertank handle thingy
You'll want a separate line coming from each solenoid, unless you always want to lock both lockers.
So air line to each solenoid, then air line to each locker.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
You'll want a separate line coming from each solenoid, unless you always want to lock both lockers.
So air line to each solenoid, then air line to each locker.

Ahh.. I forgot about those. Solenoids and relays be mounted inside, eh? That complicates things

Current setup is air tank inside rear cubby area --> single 1/2" tube ---> through truck body --> to the manifold, under the truck.

In order to mount solenoids and relays inside, I'd have to tee off the tank outlet, which I don't have any room for (tight squeeze already using a tee-outlet + air gauge), to the barrel/tee/, to the solenoids, then run two more air lines through the truck body to the axles. Not ideal...
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,927
201
Lake Villa, IL
Ahh.. I forgot about those. Solenoids and relays be mounted inside, eh? That complicates things

Current setup is air tank inside rear cubby area --> single 1/2" tube ---> through truck body --> to the manifold, under the truck.

In order to mount solenoids and relays inside, I'd have to tee off the tank outlet, which I don't have any room for (tight squeeze already using a tee-outlet + air gauge), to the barrel/tee/, to the solenoids, then run two more air lines through the truck body to the axles. Not ideal...
Smaller tank. 😉
I wouldn't mount the solenoid on the outside of the truck. I'd want them free of dirt and grime and extreme temps. You're either going to have additional air lines or wires punching through your truck.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,163
62
Raleigh, NC
Smaller tank. 😉
I wouldn't mount the solenoid on the outside of the truck. I'd want them free of dirt and grime and extreme temps. You're either going to have additional air lines or wires punching through your truck.

I have my compressor and solenoids in the engine bay. Next project for me is relocating it to the back behind the storage
bins to keep it cooler and cleaner.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Yeah, so it's probably going to be air lines punching through the truck, I wouldn't trust a regular relay exposed to the outside like that.

The viair 1 gal tank only has 4 ports and I'm too lazy and cheap to go look for something else. I'll figure a way to make it work. I wish I had gotten the 2-on-2 Viair system instead, so the compressors mount on top of the tank.


This is the best pic i could find on my computer of where the tank is.
56385


Fancy bulkhead fitting where the single air line goes to the manifold

56386


Water traps


56387
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
I currently don't have a water trap going from the tank to accessories... since the tank and compressors are higher than the axles, would it be wise to add a trap to protect water getting into the axles?

Since I'm going to move the compressors to on top of the tank (from the floor), I can probably stop running water traps for the compressors and use those instead for the axles and manifold?