Lockers, axles, gears, and tires... it's time

D Chapman

1
Callsign: KJ4BXR
Jan 3, 2005
11,321
5
On Kennith's private island
I never heard of anyone replacing rubber brake lines with stainless for improved performance. I thought people used stainless braid for abrasion resistance and larger calipers/pads for improved performance? It was also hard, at one time, to find extended rubber lines after fitting a lift.
 

p m

Administrator
Callsign: AK6PM
Apr 19, 2004
14,184
18
53
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
My thought exactly! We're going with hydraulics, bounce that Disco. I am sure it will work well though.

As for the diff, I grenaded a stock one going down Vail pass on a ski trip. No warning, downshifted, kaboom, rear tires locked up, kids screaming as I am doing 360s in the fast lane. Got it under control and it stopped half on and half off the highway. State Patrol asked me why I did not pull off the road for traffic. When he saw the rear tires skipping as the tow truck loaded it, he understood why. I will not run stock Disco diffs again for any gear ratio.
There is a difference between stock Disco diffs and stock Disco ring and pinion.
Diffs are junk to begin with. There are no problems with R&P.
 

CORover

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2007
446
7
Colorado, USA
There is a difference between stock Disco diffs and stock Disco ring and pinion.
Diffs are junk to begin with. There are no problems with R&P.


I agree
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
324
3
Pacific Beach, San Diego
So I tried to remove the dust flange from a spare axle I had ($70 rockauto special). Got nowhere. Torch, hammer, no go. Then I cut off the axle so I could fit a puller and all that did was destroy the dust flange.

Trying to avoid buying a press. It's quite annoying that for $1000, Ashcroft doesn't fit these for you

56459
 

seventyfive

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2010
4,025
2
over there
remove the axle from the cv, then press it off or find a pipe you can slide over the splines and tap with a hammer

And you should use some green sleeve retainer when you transfer it to the Ashcroft axle. Even though RCV makes them the English made the drawings and tolerances My right side axle was a couple thousands off so the dust shield would just slide back and forth.

And yes, Ashcroft should tell RCV to add a dust shield. Typical English ‘engineering’.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
324
3
Pacific Beach, San Diego
remove the axle from the cv, then press it off or find a pipe you can slide over the splines and tap with a hammer

And you should use some green sleeve retainer when you transfer it to the Ashcroft axle. Even though RCV makes them the English made the drawings and tolerances My right side axle was a couple thousands off so the dust shield would just slide back and forth.

And yes, Ashcroft should tell RCV to add a dust shield. Typical English ‘engineering’.
Good tip on sleeve retainer.. I was going to use loctite. Loctite 640 or Permatex 64000 look like a better bet.

I tried to separate the CV, but I couldn't get it off. 5 pound hammer to the inner CV cage... not budging. And there's no way a hammer would remove that dust flange either. Anyway, that axle/cv is toast now, as well as the flange. I don't see how it could be done without a press, so to make life a lot easier I think I'll go pick up a Harbor freight 20 tonner and sell it on CL when I'm done. I did that before when I rebuilt the transfer case. Wanted to keep it, but got tired of having a press next to the fridge in my kitchen
 

seventyfive

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2010
4,025
2
over there
Actually, if that is a aftermarket axle then that explains it. Cheap aftermarket axles are not serviceable. I’m not sure if they are staked, but I have never been able to remove CV joints from the half shaft.

NAPA ones are serviceable.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
324
3
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Yes, it's aftermarket - either Heri or Surtrak/Trakmotive. You couldn't get the flange off the aftermarkets either?

And damn, the front left shaft in the truck now is aftermarket too. I emailed Ashcroft and asked them to supply the flanges. Spending 5,000 pounds should get me as much. Alternative is buying a used shaft or spending half a day at the junkyard...
 

seventyfive

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2010
4,025
2
over there
Another option is having a machine shop spec out a crank pulley sleeve for the axle. The ‘dust’ portion actually holds mud and shit in then grinds it into the axle seal. Way back when I was going to have poison spider make a box of Dana style axle seals.
1556491185878.jpeg
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
324
3
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Diffs arrived. Anything I can do to check them over? I can't turn either flange by hand.

And what are these two bolts? I have a set for each diff. I think they are journal end cap bolts for people who just order the locker, but since I bought complete diffs I don't need them?

Does anyone know how much current the solenoid consumes? I don't think its much, so I can run the D2 cruise control switches directly to them and not use a relay. It's a ~15 foot 16 AWG wire

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fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,353
8
Lake Villa, IL
Diffs arrived. Anything I can do to check them over? I can't turn either flange by hand.

And what are these two bolts? I have a set for each diff. I think they are journal end cap bolts for people who just order the locker, but since I bought complete diffs I don't need them?

Does anyone know how much current the solenoid consumes? I don't think its much, so I can run the D2 cruise control switches directly to them and not use a relay. It's a ~15 foot 16 AWG wire

View attachment 56560
View attachment 56561
Use a relay.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
9,709
26
North Carolina
I never heard of anyone replacing rubber brake lines with stainless for improved performance. I thought people used stainless braid for abrasion resistance and larger calipers/pads for improved performance? It was also hard, at one time, to find extended rubber lines after fitting a lift.
The objective is a more positive pedal feel. The more rubber tube you remove from the system, the firmer it gets. The whole point of braided line is the resistance to ballooning under pressure. Inside, it's one polymer or another just like any other line; it's simply much thinner, given the steel reenforcement.

There is no need to replace them for abrasion resistance. Quite often, it's a downgrade in that department, anyway.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
3,924
4
-
That sounds like a problem. It should measure around .006” which allows slight rocking play. Ive never set up a pegged diff so maybe its hard to detect?