I'm assuming this is what I'm looking for.....I hope I don't need the pro version.
Lucky 8 GAP ID Tool
Lucky 8 GAP ID Tool
LR3 battery recommendations?
- Thread starter Tugela
- Start date
I bought mine from Lucky 8 when they offered a Black Friday deal. That's not too much longer to wait, assuming they offer it again. They also offer a package deal of tool + spare key.
https://lucky8llc.com/products/gap-iid-tool-and-replacement-key-kit
So I took my truck to my local independent Rover shop to see if they could figure out my radio problem (the entire radio/sat-nav/phone interface module keeps cutting out every 5-10 seconds and rebooting). My local shop didn't want to try to reprogram it and suggested I take it to the dealer. Dealer just called and said "there is a bad node in the module and it is losing it's connection." The entire radio module has to be replaced. Part # LR087427. Their price: $5,500+! I think I shall be searching for a used part....LOL
So I purchased a used radio receiver/CD/DVD unit. It’s all the same ID numbers as my original unit with the only difference being the serial number.
It’s the one with the additional inputs on the back:
The basic CD player only has a few inputs but this is the one in my 2013 LR4.
the ad on eBay said:
2013-2015 Land Rover Lr2 Am Fm Cd Player Radio Receiver GX4AP
I installed it and absolutely nothing. When audio is off it shows “audio off” but when you push the on button it’s just dark. Does the unit need to be programmed or something? Any ideas? Does the fact it probably came from an LR2 make a difference even though all the alpha-numeric codes are identical (i.e. it should be the same piece of hardware)?
The ad says LR2. That’s a low line system kind of specific to the transverse mounted little cars. Probably not compatible.
I wasn’t really following this thread. From the outside I thought this was battery boredom. What codes does your gap tool say you have in the audio system. Including the amplifier, SDARS, and what have you. Put your original radio head back in it.
I thought there was software for this. Look for codes that say there’s a MOST ring message missing. Look for water ingress at the amplifier under the seat.
Audio crap like your dealing with comes down to substituting known good modules. It’s a bitch to find a like vehicle that doesn’t belong to a customer. It’s gotta be a lot queen.
I’m curious how they came up with that audio head being the issue. Maybe it’s just a dart some 22 year old kid decided to throw at it. Maybe it was careful logic and sound diagnostics. I’m glad I don’t have to deal with that after stuff I’ve seen from the other side.
I wasn’t really following this thread. From the outside I thought this was battery boredom. What codes does your gap tool say you have in the audio system. Including the amplifier, SDARS, and what have you. Put your original radio head back in it.
I thought there was software for this. Look for codes that say there’s a MOST ring message missing. Look for water ingress at the amplifier under the seat.
Audio crap like your dealing with comes down to substituting known good modules. It’s a bitch to find a like vehicle that doesn’t belong to a customer. It’s gotta be a lot queen.
I’m curious how they came up with that audio head being the issue. Maybe it’s just a dart some 22 year old kid decided to throw at it. Maybe it was careful logic and sound diagnostics. I’m glad I don’t have to deal with that after stuff I’ve seen from the other side.
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Don’t have a GAP tool but clearly I need one. Will order one.
It all started after my battery died and I replaced the battery and then the audio system just constantly rebooted. Plays all audio (Am, FM, Cd, satellite) just fine for about 5 seconds then goes dead, then starts playing again. Repeat.
Dealer said a “node” in the CD unit has stopped communicating. Replacement unit is $5500. They gave me the part number for the CD unit and when I searched, I came up with a unit that looks the same, but just has a couple rear connections. My unit has many more connections as pictured.
So I bought a matching unit with matching alpha-numeric part numbers plastered all over it with matching inputs. But it does say LR2 in description. Was only $80.
I can try an actual LR4 unit with matching part numbers and matching inputs. They’re about $175-200 on eBay.
I miss the days of just pulling and replacing a simple head unit!
It all started after my battery died and I replaced the battery and then the audio system just constantly rebooted. Plays all audio (Am, FM, Cd, satellite) just fine for about 5 seconds then goes dead, then starts playing again. Repeat.
Dealer said a “node” in the CD unit has stopped communicating. Replacement unit is $5500. They gave me the part number for the CD unit and when I searched, I came up with a unit that looks the same, but just has a couple rear connections. My unit has many more connections as pictured.
So I bought a matching unit with matching alpha-numeric part numbers plastered all over it with matching inputs. But it does say LR2 in description. Was only $80.
I can try an actual LR4 unit with matching part numbers and matching inputs. They’re about $175-200 on eBay.
I miss the days of just pulling and replacing a simple head unit!
That’s a good price. I hope that takes care of it for you. In my experience this could be any module on the most ring. I’ve seen it be an audio head unit like you just bought.
It’s not really all that simple. It comes down to that MOST ring. That is the orange fiber optic cables that form a ring going thru all the infotainment modules. To make it more difficult those modules are also communicating on the medium speed can network.
Normally if the most ring goes down the screen will display the Logo. If it’s the can network usually screen is grey.
So if one of the modules on the most ring is not up and running when you fire it up it will do what your describing. It waits a little while for the modules to complete the ring. The signal( red blinking light) needs to complete the entire loop. So every module in the infotainment system can do what your seeing.
That’s what is so frustrating about these new vehicles. In years past you’d yank & replace the head unit. You could do it in an hour in your driveway. Now we’re tracking fiber optics and network issues and the fix is $5500 on a 10-year old truck that just flipped 100k miles? I’ve spent a shitload of money getting this truck where I want it but $5500 for a stock radio repair won’t happen, just in general principal. I’ll be taking a little boom box on my trip this weekend while my 14 speaker Logic Seven Surround Meridian whatever sound system stays silent…LOL.
P.S. I do appreciate your feedback and advice. You’re the only one on here that can provide this insight on these systems. Thanks man.
I saw that but that's not really the direction I want to go. I'm not an audiophile and I'm not into all that apple music crap. Jesus, I sound like a cranky old white guy. I want to retain the stock equipment in no small part for resale value. I've also watched some install videos for that bundle and it seems like something is always not working as advertised. If my system is truly shot to shit then I'll mount a 1980's boombox in the center of my dashboard. Then if my AC goes out I'll mount a window unit in one of the rear windows.
Just ordered a GAP IIDtool from Lucky 8.
Just ordered a GAP IIDtool from Lucky 8.
I think the gap tool should help. I've never used it but if it gives you all the vehicle system codes thats what you need. People seem to like it so let us know how you like it.
Once you get all the system codes you can figure out a good guess at whats going on. I've mentioned before that U codes are generally an "It's not me code". The code can be stored in the audio head, but its just saying some other module is not up and sending out state of health messages. So it's what we call a missing message fault. CAN network modules kind of tattle on each other. Just get your list of faults and post them up. If the smoking gun is in the codes we should see it.
Once you get all the system codes you can figure out a good guess at whats going on. I've mentioned before that U codes are generally an "It's not me code". The code can be stored in the audio head, but its just saying some other module is not up and sending out state of health messages. So it's what we call a missing message fault. CAN network modules kind of tattle on each other. Just get your list of faults and post them up. If the smoking gun is in the codes we should see it.
Thanks for your vote of confidence. But I have it on good authority I might be an idiot.
If I had a nickel for every time I’ve been called an idiot I could afford to have the dealer fix my radio.
Update on my radio situation...
I installed the CD player module that I bought online that came from a 2012 LR4. It has all matching part numbers and the fiber optic cable actually illuminated red when I plugged it in. But I got nothing when I turn the radio on. The GAP tool notes a communication breakdown on the MOST ring. I don't have the actual GAP tool language handy right now.
I finally got around to booking a service appointment at the local dealership two days ago to have them see if they could make the radio communicate with the truck. They've worked on it for two days and said they can't get it to work. The mechanic said that he thinks the 2012 may not be compatible or perhaps the radio modules are VIN-specific. In other words, this 2012 may not work because it's just not compatible with a 2013, or no module will ever work because they are programmed to one specific vehicle. Therefore the dealer's recommendation is to have them get a brand new unit shipped to them from Land Rover and the dealer will then install it and program it to the vehicle. They dropped the cost from $5,500 to $5,097.
Discostew, does this sound plausible? It sounds a lot like Land Rover telling me I have no choice, only the dealer can bring audio back to my vehicle. I'm of course no expert, but I'd think that if an audio module or unit or whatever can be programmed to a vehicle, it could be unprogrammed and programmed to another vehicle. It's just software code, isn't it?
I told the dealer to button it all back up and I'll pick up the truck and likely approve them ordering the new unit in a few days (the unit will take a few days to arrive) and then I'll bring it back in for the swap and ultimate repair. In the meantime I want to get the actual GAP tool error message with this 2012 LR4 unit installed, and then I'll tear the dash apart again, install my original bad unit, and get the GAP tool error message.
I installed the CD player module that I bought online that came from a 2012 LR4. It has all matching part numbers and the fiber optic cable actually illuminated red when I plugged it in. But I got nothing when I turn the radio on. The GAP tool notes a communication breakdown on the MOST ring. I don't have the actual GAP tool language handy right now.
I finally got around to booking a service appointment at the local dealership two days ago to have them see if they could make the radio communicate with the truck. They've worked on it for two days and said they can't get it to work. The mechanic said that he thinks the 2012 may not be compatible or perhaps the radio modules are VIN-specific. In other words, this 2012 may not work because it's just not compatible with a 2013, or no module will ever work because they are programmed to one specific vehicle. Therefore the dealer's recommendation is to have them get a brand new unit shipped to them from Land Rover and the dealer will then install it and program it to the vehicle. They dropped the cost from $5,500 to $5,097.
Discostew, does this sound plausible? It sounds a lot like Land Rover telling me I have no choice, only the dealer can bring audio back to my vehicle. I'm of course no expert, but I'd think that if an audio module or unit or whatever can be programmed to a vehicle, it could be unprogrammed and programmed to another vehicle. It's just software code, isn't it?
I told the dealer to button it all back up and I'll pick up the truck and likely approve them ordering the new unit in a few days (the unit will take a few days to arrive) and then I'll bring it back in for the swap and ultimate repair. In the meantime I want to get the actual GAP tool error message with this 2012 LR4 unit installed, and then I'll tear the dash apart again, install my original bad unit, and get the GAP tool error message.
I would want to see just what’s going on on your MOST ring. You mentioned it has a most ring code stored. Those aren’t that difficult to diagnose. The blinking light is not making it thru something. I look at the schematic of the MOST ring and check them in order. When I find a place I suspect the module is not completing the ring I plug a prism in at that point.
I guess it’s possible Blue. But it’s kind of a stretch. I mean both modules are bad?
I guess it’s possible Blue. But it’s kind of a stretch. I mean both modules are bad?