LR3 battery recommendations?

[Blue]

The dealer is saying that although the 2012 module I installed may have worked fine in the truck it came out of, it won't work in my 2013 either because it's just not compatible (model year 2012 vs model year 2013) or maybe the modules are VIN-specific....meaning no module will ever work in my truck unless I buy a brand new one and have it assigned to my VIN. I have to kinda call bullshit on the VIN-specific stuff.

I'll pick up my truck and pull the MOST ring code with this 2012 module installed in my 2013. Then I'll put the original 2013 module back in and pull the code again. I bought the GAP tool after I had removed and replaced my original 2013 module.

 

[discostew]

Check out that other thread. Eric's car is flagging the interface / heater controls.

 

[Blue]

Will post up the dealer’s write-up and also GAP codes a little later. At 7-year-old’s karate class now!

 

[Blue]

Here is my dealer service write-up

 

[Blue]

Remember that I took my truck in to the dealer with the main CD player module from 2012 I bought on ebay installed. When I took it in to the dealer I had nothing whatsoever when I hit the audio ON button. NO static, no noise, etc. My display screen has always worked, just no AM/FM/Satellite/CD/DVD/NAV display activity. All other functions work.

Now when I just picked it up from the dealer a few hours ago, I am back to having radio again but it still cuts out for about 5 seconds every 15 or 20 seconds like the system is rebooting. So something is kind of working here.....

Here are my GAP tool faults with the 2012 ebay CD player module installed - note the recent ones from when it was in the dealer shop, 02-02-2023:

Body Control - Start Button Circuit A & B

Audio Buttons - Lost communication with the front controls interface module

HVAC-Ventilation - Lost communication with the front controls interface module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message

I was also having severe electrical issues on Monday, 01-30-2023, with the truck not starting, complete electrical failure, clock resetting, suspension failure and dropping to bump stops (was very interesting to drop to bumps at about 30 mph with my new 275/65/18 tires). I popped my hood and checked my battery and the negative terminal was loose, rattling around on the negative post. The square side of the retaining nut was rounded off and not holding tight. Fixed it with a new nut & bolt and problems solved.

 

[discostew]

You have some of those codes but somebody has been unplugging shit and probably stored some of those while testing. I would clear them and see if it’s still flagging any of that crap.

 

[discostew]

Hey Blue. I'm on a road trip but I looked up your most ring. I looked it up cause I thought it started with the touch screen and it does. So with the car on and radio turned on/ you go to the audio head and unplug it, look down into the connector and one light should be red or blinking red. Plug that back in and go to the next module in the loop and unplug that/ same thing should be there. keep repeating that untill you find where that MOST ring is incomplete.

 

[Blue]

Very cool, thank you. I'll tear apart the dash and see what I can see. I cleared all my codes with the GAP tool and I'll check it again tomorrow after I drive a bit more.

 

[discostew]

A lot of times the touchscreen takes a shit when people try to update the maps.

 

[ERover82]

I wonder if you're seeing this issue: https://landroverforums.com/forum/l...ical-issue-dash-go-blank-while-driving-96794/

They ended up replacing the "Quiescent Module" LR038721 and fuse box LR056084.

 

[Blue]

Hey Eric, welcome to my LR4 electrical hell....LOL.

I'll sum it up as succinctly as possible:

1. 2013 LR4 LUX & HD packages, Meridian stereo, rear DVDs, pretty much everything but surround cameras.

2. End of last August I was running a little environmental groundwater sampling pump off my battery, not too big of a load but I mistakenly left my truck off as I was dialing in pump flow and then I ran the pump for a while and killed the battery. Jumped with my portable lithium-ion jumper pack and all was well. Over the next few weeks I had a few occasions where I had to jump. Then the electrical system started having issues - truck would be totally dead, I'd jump, and it would start with Suspension Fault, do not exceed 30 mph, clocks would reset, temp would revert back to Celsius, etc. Restarting would clear suspension fault. So I bought a new battery and all was well until suddenly my radio started cutting out about every 5-10 seconds, would re-start radio after about 5 seconds. My phone was also disconnecting and then reconnecting in synch with the radio shutoff. By radio I mean every audio device - FM/AM/CD/Satellite. It was essentially rebooting or trying to reestablish connection every 5-10 seconds or so. This was end of Sept/first of Oct.

3. Keep in mind the only issue is the audio cutting out. My main control screen is fine, lit up like normal, HVAC works, dash lights are on, etc. The only issue is that the audio cuts out. I'm jamming to the Bee Gees' Stayin Alive on satellite radio and it just sounds like someone turns off the radio about every 7 seconds and leaves it off for about 5 seconds and then turns it back on. The little info area on the dash shows no info when radio is off and then shows satellite trying to reconnect or FM or AM station on then off then on then off. There is also a split second of static or electrical buzz with each on/off/on cycle.

4. My local independent mechanic checked battery and alternator - everything checks out fine. Independent didn't want to try to reboot or reprogram the entire vehicle, suggested I take it to the dealer.

5. In mid October the dealer said there is a bad node in the stereo receiver module and it is losing it's connection. They said the entire main receiver module has to be replaced. It's the big unit that includes the CD/DVD player. The dealer gave me part # LR087427. Here's picture of the part in the dash and also on my desk next to the replacement part:


6. I found a replacement part from a 2012 LR4. Installed it and nothing. No audio whatsoever. When I hit the button to turn on audio, it just shows blank - the AUDIO OFF turns off and nothing. The touchscreen still works fine, just blank instead of FM or AM or Satellite or whatever. Then when I hit the off button it says AUDIO OFF like normal.

7. I finally took it back to the dealer last week. Same diagnosis. The "new" 2012 replacement unit I installed isn't communicating just like the original. Here is the dealer's write-up:


8. But here's what's odd...when I picked it up from the dealer, I was back to having audio again for 5-10 seconds then it cuts off for about 5 seconds. So when the dealer was fucking with it they did something to bring it partially back from the dead, they brought it back to where I was with my original 2013 unit installed. So is this 2012 unit working, and was my 2013 unit working, and is something else in the "MOST ring" not working???

I also just cleared all my fault codes with the GAP tool and I've driven around for a couple days with my radio both on and off. No new codes related to audio or front controls, just codes related to my non-functioning parking sensors (aftermarket rear bumper with sensors deleted) and the puddle lamp on my driver's door doesn't like the LED bulb I installed (but the other three doors liked them fine, LOL), and something about my passenger side mirror heater electrical fault. I didn't even know I had heated mirrors. Also note that even with my audio system off, I can still hear the split second of static or electrical buzz every 10 seconds or so as the system is trying to establish connection.

So now I need to do what Stew recommended:

So with the car on and radio turned on/ you go to the audio head and unplug it, look down into the connector and one light should be red or blinking red. Plug that back in and go to the next module in the loop and unplug that/ same thing should be there. keep repeating that untill you find where that MOST ring is incomplete.

But I've got some big jobs the next few days so I won't be able to tear into this until maybe Thursday or Friday or this weekend.

 

[ERover82]

Dang, I’m glad that was the “succinct” version.

Mine is just dead, however like yours it also happened after a dead battery. I know the battery is on its last legs but never thought an audio unit could be so shitty as to not run off a wide voltage range. Most electronics I’m used to are quite forgiving. I’m going to try another battery I’ve got on hand and a few other things before I spend any more cash on this pit. At some point I may be interested in your possibly-never-needed audio unit.

I’ve still got the water ingress issues in mind though as that and the battery are the only two obvious variables that changed between it working and not working.

 

[discostew]

These kind of problems can be a real bitch as you guys are finding out. Audio systems is the one system that most if not all of us would love to have a known good vehicle and all its modules.
I had a similar issue with my LR2 when it was new. Sounds just like what you describe Blue. That ended up being the touchscreen. It was intermittent and the way I figured it out was by having a known good audio head and a known good touchscreen in the vehicle with me and swapped the shit out when it started acting up. Having a known good vehicle gets harder as they get older. The vehicle needs to belong to the dealer so you’re limited to what’s on the lot.
Don’t overlook your amplifier. Amps are known to cause dead batteries and MOST ring issues. I would want to know if there’s a parasitic load on the vehicle that you’re getting away with cause you drive it every day.

 

[Blue]

I finally got around to spending a few quality hours tearing apart the dashboard and fucking with my stereo that hasn't worked since late 2022.

A long time ago on facebook I came across a totaled 2013 LR4 with the LUX package exactly like mine. It was being parted out. I bought the touchscreen, the main control module beneath the touchscreen, and the stereo head unit/CD player. I just installed the replacement parts and still the same damn problem.

I checked the MOST ring connectors and the one behind the touchscreen was blinking red, the one behind the head unit was also blinking red. What else do I have to check? The amp connection? Based on your screen shot, discostew, the MOST ring goes from the touch screen to the integrated audio module (which I'm assuming is the head unit with the CD player in it) and then out from that unit to the amplifier and then out from the amp back to the touch screen. I don't see any MOST OUT wiring out of the head unit......is the wiring just part of the red blinking plug that I'm plugging in? I've never looked at the amp, is it under the passenger seat? I'll check it out tomorrow.

Plug everything in tight and it's the same old problem - stereo works beautifully for about 5 - 7 seconds and then it shuts off and reboots for a few seconds. Everything on the touchscreen is subject to the reboot process - setting the clock, trying to adjust the radio station, adjusting balance or fade or treble or bass. You basically have about 5 to 7 seconds to navigate through the touch screen menu before it reverts back to home screen and sits there unresponsive for a few seconds before it's back in action for 5 to 7 seconds, and the cycle constantly repeats. Trying to set the clock takes about 10 attempts to get it right and get it saved.

The saga continues!

 

[Hugh166]

Blue, the integrated audio module is the head unit. The amp is under the passenger seat, so that would be the next place to check. Also does your truck have satellite radio? If it does there is a MOST ring connection there. That is located behind the passenger side cargo area panel (image below). You can get the jumpers in the link below and just plug them in place of what ever module you want to test. If the issue is within that module taking down the MOST ring when you jump it out every function, besides what the module controls, will come on line and the system will operate normally, minus that module.



https://www.amazon.com/Mellbree-Con...-6-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY&psc=1

 

[Blue]

Blue, the integrated audio module is the head unit. The amp is under the passenger seat, so that would be the next place to check. Also does your truck have satellite radio? If it does there is a MOST ring connection there. That is located behind the passenger side cargo area panel (image below). You can get the jumpers in the link below and just plug them in place of what ever module you want to test. If the issue is within that module taking down the MOST ring when you jump it out every function, besides what the module controls, will come on line and the system will operate normally, minus that module.

View attachment 66385

https://www.amazon.com/Mellbree-Connector-Diagnostic-Compatible-Mercedes/dp/B09KZWP19M/ref=sr_1_6_sspa?crid=3OYU43EWVRM17&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7WbOwZpqTH4vgPObTuv_PAvW6uvJgyPM00zVZf2CL8RiyQcHC5hvpvCopZuFFjEx.WGp7JPuCDmfFO4E7WHimMSGhMjReowvpgZeDnmfHJCE&dib_tag=se&keywords=most+ring+jumper+for+2009+jaguar+only&qid=1710982559&sprefix=most+ring+,aps,164&sr=8-6-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY&psc=1

Thank you for the information. I do have satellite radio so I'll be checking the rear cargo area as you've identified above, along with the amp. I just ordered the jumper and it will be here Sunday!