LR3 No Start

stu454

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2004
5,407
61
Atlanta, GA
Situation: LR3 No start; not even an attempt to turn over. All lights work, transmission fault listed on trip computer screen. Tried Microstart jumpbox with no effect. Ideas, taunts, pithy observations? By the way, we're at a cabin in the boonies so a jump from another car won't be happening for a while.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,727
1,022
Northern Illinois
without having fault codes I would be looking at the transfer case ecu right behind the battery. Those 3 connectors get pretty shitted up and cause loss of comunication to the transmission ecu ( valve body) Also the shifter has a connector on it that causes some problems like this too.
 

stu454

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2004
5,407
61
Atlanta, GA
These are the only codes.

After a hard reset, the trip screen shows a park brake fault. When inserting the key, it only shows Key In Ignition, not System Check like it did before the reset.
 

stu454

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2004
5,407
61
Atlanta, GA
With the truck off and the key out of the switch, I am hearing the sounds of relays clicking from inside the cabin.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,727
1,022
Northern Illinois
With the truck off and the key out of the switch, I am hearing the sounds of relays clicking from inside the cabin.

Sounds like a battery voltage issue. So if the battery is good I would be looking at your ground strap that runs between the body,fame and block. It's on the right side and you can see it when you get the right fender liner out of it. But the quick way to test it is measure the voltage drop from your neg battery terminal to the block while someone is holding the key in crank position.

I doubt that's all your codes. Just the ones from whatever that scanner can interface with.
 

stu454

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2004
5,407
61
Atlanta, GA
<hangs head in shame> It was a just a dead battery. My Microstart jump box is now relegated to charging phones and tablets.
 

stu454

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2004
5,407
61
Atlanta, GA
The small one from EE. I suppose it's possible that the battery was somehow preventing the box from starting the truck. I'm tempted to disconnect the battery and see if the box jumps the truck.
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,212
462
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
I have one of those as well. On a totally flat battery it also didn't work. With just a discharged battery yet not enough juice to start the engine, it did work.

Think I'll keep those jumper cables in the back.

Thanks.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,727
1,022
Northern Illinois
I never really understood why one of those would work. I could see if voltage was below what logic modules need to turn on ( 9v ) but that 9 v was enough to spin the engine. Cause I've seen that a lot. BCM not awake to tell the PCM to allow cranking, but jump across the starter solinoid and it turns over slowly.

But how could the amperage needed get in that little thing?
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
I never really understood why one of those would work. I could see if voltage was below what logic modules need to turn on ( 9v ) but that 9 v was enough to spin the engine. Cause I've seen that a lot. BCM not awake to tell the PCM to allow cranking, but jump across the starter solinoid and it turns over slowly.

But how could the amperage needed get in that little thing?

I don't understand it either, especially with the tiny cables. I have the Snap On one and have used it to jump cars with completely flat batteries. It works better than those old big jump boxes.