LR4 - First preventative measures?

ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
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Picked up a 2011 LR4 with Lux and HD package. Needs typical control arm bushings. Also now hearing a light grinding sound from somewhere in the drivetrain on accel (more so) and decel. Taking it in for inspection.

Got a GAP tool and am considering an X8R compressor improvement/rebuild kit. Given the age and known issues with these, what else would you replace or do immediately, and what would you just keep as a spare?

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p m

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Coolant crossover pipes.
Timing chain cover oil leak.
Fuel filter/fuel tank flange recall needs to be done. If it isn't done yet, have the fuel pump replaced as well.
 
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ERover82

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Is it worth replacing the front plastic coolant output pipe and/or thermostat right away? How about the hoses?

My LR3 blew all its coolant out on the freeway on a rainy day so I couldn't see it pouring out. Luckily I stopped before it overheated too much. I'm guessing it was the spring clamp not holding the upper hose on tight enough. I'd like to avoid such situations this time.
 

p m

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If the crossover pipes have never been replaced, yes.
I had mine replaced once I felt the slightest whiff of coolant; the pipes' flanges have already been very brittle and crumbling.
 
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pinkytoe69

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Jan 14, 2012
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Is it worth replacing the front plastic coolant output pipe right away?

I was looking at an LR4 last year. It was essentially a one owner (second owner/seller had done most of the mileage)

Pretty clean Carfax, lots of dealer services, except I noticed it had a random coolant hose repair in Brainerd I believe. The owner has a cabin up there...his son took it to the movies, came out and saw a big puddle of coolant all over the ground.
 
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MM3846

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Feb 18, 2014
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Just about to roll 62k miles, I haven't done my crossover pipes yet, but I plan on it before summer hits since I'll be on the beach probably every other weekend and that's the last thing I need.

Just did the front LCAs last weekend, used Lemforder ones from FCP Euro... they're OEM LR parts, you can see where they ground off the LR logo. And with FCP Euro's warranty next time I have to do these in another 60-80k, the parts will be free. Took me 4 lazy hours to swap them out.
 

jymmiejamz

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Dec 5, 2004
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@discostew and @jymmiejamz , are there other things you guys are repeatedly seeing in the shop that owners can get ahead of?
I primarily work on Defenders now, so I can’t really speak as to what’s failing. I would say replace all of the plastic cooling system parts regularly. The outlet pipe seems to fail before the crossover pipe. Thermostat housing leaks happen, but aren’t as common. Probably worth doing all at once with Genuine parts. Get a vacuum filler if you don’t have one already.

I would also just cut all factory service intervals in half.
 
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discostew

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@discostew and @jymmiejamz , are there other things you guys are repeatedly seeing in the shop that owners can get ahead of?
For whatever reason it seems like those rotory trans selector knobs are failing a lot in the cold. We’ve waited months for them for a couple Jags. For the trucks with a regular old shifter I would replace the bushings and hardware at the trans sector shaft
As far as staying ahead of stuff. There’s a couple diaphragms on the right side valve cover on a 5.0. Just one on the 3.0. Those rupture and cause fuel trim faults. I think parts might call it a PCV valve.
The secondary battery is kind of pricey and pretty common.
I see these cars go to shit because if people start letting a few $250 repairs slide cause it’s not causing the truck to not run. Then when something big needs fixing there’s still another $800 worth of crap the thing needs. Then it’s on it’s way to becoming bucket of shit.
 

ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
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For whatever reason it seems like those rotory trans selector knobs are failing a lot in the cold. We’ve waited months for them for a couple Jags. For the trucks with a regular old shifter I would replace the bushings and hardware at the trans sector shaft
As far as staying ahead of stuff. There’s a couple diaphragms on the right side valve cover on a 5.0. Just one on the 3.0. Those rupture and cause fuel trim faults. I think parts might call it a PCV valve.
The secondary battery is kind of pricey and pretty common.
I see these cars go to shit because if people start letting a few $250 repairs slide cause it’s not causing the truck to not run. Then when something big needs fixing there’s still another $800 worth of crap the thing needs. Then it’s on it’s way to becoming bucket of shit.

Thankfully mine doesn't have the rotary knob. I'll need to find a parts diagram and look into those wear-items on the regular shifter.

Found the PCV valve you mentioned. LR133579
1645679999009.png
 
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ERover82

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Inspection was completed today at what I'd call a sufficiently competent shop, but not LR specialists. Confirmed the front lower control arm bushings are shot, but their best guess on the friction noise pointed to the front diff. I thought it was coming more from the rear. They said the diff oil looked fine though. If only I could crawl around underneath while I was driving it to locate the damn source. They didn't find anything else wrong with the vehicle. I might take it to another shop that is pretty familiar with these, but it's a bit of a drive and pain in the ass logistically.
 

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
Thankfully mine doesn't have the rotary knob. I'll need to find a parts diagram and look into those wear-items on the regular shifter.

Found the PCV valve you mentioned. LR133579
View attachment 62415
That’s the one. If you have a rotory type noise I would spin it up while the wheels are off the ground. If you think it’s coming from the back make sure your park brake shoes are adjusted correctly. People always seem to adjust those till it’s dragging on the drum. That will overheat the whole assembly and cause the lining to come off the park brake shoe. Then the shit piggybacks in there and locks the wheel up.
Take out the plastic plug and find the star wheel. Tighten that till you can’t turn the rotor. Then loosen it 11 or 12 clicks. It’s not so much a click as a thump when the star wheel hits the spring.
 
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discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
Also if you can get it up in the air and check it. Pay attention to the prop shaft and the shield that covers it. They can get to close together and scrape. Also that carrier bearing can get noisy. I hope your inspection got all the wheel bearings checked, the front ones are real common.