do you have a bosch motor? i thought you had a GEMS vehicle. What year is it. I removed mine and welded the bungs closed. I only get a check engine light in the winter.
Lucky 8?s Project P38
- Thread starter FIVESPDDISCO
- Start date
no emissions testing no problem here. LOL what year computer did you use? i'd like to do that and rip the rest of the crap out.
I used a 2000 - 2002. I got it from Marty at Overland Rovers 270 576 7922
I dont know what computers you have but we used Test book to link the ECU to the BECM
I dont know what computers you have but we used Test book to link the ECU to the BECM
Project update : Snow problem
The conditions at Winter Romp were crazy slippery, even for Maine in February. I tried airing down to 15psi to get more traction. The snow and ice just laughed, so I let the pressure down to 8psi and that was the magic number for the Nittos. This turned into a good test for the new Terrafirma rims. Whether it be on the trail or street the bead never came off the wheels.
The P38 is the first Land Rover I was afraid to play in the water with. Every crossing was done only after I knew how deep the water was. Next week I am going to focus on doing something with the BECM and ECU.
Unfortunately the Winter Romp was not kind to the P38s Fender flares. The tight trails and low hanging tree branches were like driving through the living forest of Middle Earth and someone told the trees that each flare was a Ring of Power.
We will have to get the heat gun out and bend the flare back into shape but with out them we could not stuff the 33s like this.
Winter Romp poser shot
The conditions at Winter Romp were crazy slippery, even for Maine in February. I tried airing down to 15psi to get more traction. The snow and ice just laughed, so I let the pressure down to 8psi and that was the magic number for the Nittos. This turned into a good test for the new Terrafirma rims. Whether it be on the trail or street the bead never came off the wheels.
The P38 is the first Land Rover I was afraid to play in the water with. Every crossing was done only after I knew how deep the water was. Next week I am going to focus on doing something with the BECM and ECU.
Unfortunately the Winter Romp was not kind to the P38s Fender flares. The tight trails and low hanging tree branches were like driving through the living forest of Middle Earth and someone told the trees that each flare was a Ring of Power.
We will have to get the heat gun out and bend the flare back into shape but with out them we could not stuff the 33s like this.
Winter Romp poser shot
I hear tell the truck did great on the trails...but not so good for the poser shot.:rofl::rofl::rofl:
mini Project update : Make it stop
With all the work we are doing to the P38 the constant beeping forced Mike to the verge of a mental break down. Armed with a screwdriver and a 10 lb sledgehammer Mike had a life or death match with the instrument cluster. I'm happy to say the cluster is fine and no longer beeps, Mike on the other hand is in therapy 3 times a week.
To see how to De-Beep your P38 watch this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzywClPcVpo&list=UUUnCLXtAqip_9qd-T1NenbA&index=5
With all the work we are doing to the P38 the constant beeping forced Mike to the verge of a mental break down. Armed with a screwdriver and a 10 lb sledgehammer Mike had a life or death match with the instrument cluster. I'm happy to say the cluster is fine and no longer beeps, Mike on the other hand is in therapy 3 times a week.
To see how to De-Beep your P38 watch this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzywClPcVpo&list=UUUnCLXtAqip_9qd-T1NenbA&index=5
FIVESPDDISCO said:
I forgot how loud and annoying the damn seatbelt buzzer is
First thing i did to the 01 RR was to disconect the orange seat belt warning cable attached to seat belt recepticle on the drivers seat, (slide drivers seat forward ) . I did not dissconnect the speaker, choose instead to muffle it with masking tape on my 97.
A scan gauge plugged into the OBD2 (?) plug will give you accurate engine temp (and other stuff) without having to rely on the factory temp gauge or install an aftermarket one. It all also give your intake temp (which might be useful with your airbox mods and relocating air intake under the hood)
http://www.scangauge.com/
Now that i have replaced my faithful but rather tired 200k 97 RR with a 01 RR http://www.facebook.com/rover.restorations, i have the opportunity to redo everything all over again so i will be watching your progress with interest.
My old RR
Project update : Lights, Damper, Cut
Lights
Almost every time we use the P38 a front side marker light goes missing. I don't know if the mounting tabs have gone bad on the truck or that we sometimes use trees and rocks as a brake supplement.
We filled the mounting holes on the lights with RTV in hopes of keeping them in place.
They did not fall out on this little rock pile, I hope it is a good omen.
Damper
The Terrafirma steering damper came in for testing.
I took the P38 down a 55mph ruff country road and the damper kept the 33in Nitto's under control and tracking straight.
As expected the damper did great off road as well.
Cut
After seeing the prototype for the rear bumper we could make the final adjustments needed to the fender flares.
With the way the flares line up on the P38 it is hard to tell we cut them or that they were originally for a Disco 2.
Mike the fender slayer on the stone pile showing off the lights and flares.
Lights
Almost every time we use the P38 a front side marker light goes missing. I don't know if the mounting tabs have gone bad on the truck or that we sometimes use trees and rocks as a brake supplement.
We filled the mounting holes on the lights with RTV in hopes of keeping them in place.
They did not fall out on this little rock pile, I hope it is a good omen.
Damper
The Terrafirma steering damper came in for testing.
I took the P38 down a 55mph ruff country road and the damper kept the 33in Nitto's under control and tracking straight.
As expected the damper did great off road as well.
Cut
After seeing the prototype for the rear bumper we could make the final adjustments needed to the fender flares.
With the way the flares line up on the P38 it is hard to tell we cut them or that they were originally for a Disco 2.
Mike the fender slayer on the stone pile showing off the lights and flares.
I managed to bend a few stock steering dampers, broke the welds on the Rancho version, years ago i ordered a steering damper from Atlantic British, but as soon as it arrived I received a several anxious phonecalls from AB requesting i not install it and return it asap. So a Terrafirma afetrmarket option is of interest especially with 33'. I never had any real issues with tracking, but I believe the TruTraks helped.
Talking of TerraFirma shocks , any news on my order, any chance of them arriving before the weekend?
My side lights used to pop on a regular basis, I drilled holes in the mounting tapbs and used zip ties on my 97, on the 01 the previous owner had used wood screws.
Behind the healamps on both sides is also a handy place to store a couple of quarts of ATF and engine oil.
Talking of TerraFirma shocks , any news on my order, any chance of them arriving before the weekend?
My side lights used to pop on a regular basis, I drilled holes in the mounting tapbs and used zip ties on my 97, on the 01 the previous owner had used wood screws.
Behind the healamps on both sides is also a handy place to store a couple of quarts of ATF and engine oil.
FIVESPDDISCO said:You should have them fridayatriot:
A man of his word , shocks arrived this afternoon.
Now just the small matter of transfering this garage full of dissorganized parts onto the new 01 RR, after the insurance adjuster arrives on Monday morning.
I am anticipating that the 01 RR with 94k and a salvage title will be declared a total loss based on the $5K repair estimates I have received. I wonder what $ figure I will be initially offered? of course the insurance company will start low .
I intend to keep the RR and already have the fender, hood, bumper, lights (except the clear sidelight, similar to the one on the Lucky8 P38, which I can't seem to find easily)
Project Update : Recap with a Splash
When we started out with this truck we made a list of things to accomplish. Let's revisit it and see how we are doing.
3-5 in lift / 4 inch lift installed
Dump the 20in dubs for 16in and 33in mud tires / 33in Nittos installed
Front and rear bumpers / In production, just waiting on the first run.
Sliders / Installed
Front and rear lockers / They need to be installed
HD drag link and track rod / In production
Rear links that are not made from Fiberglass / Nothing yet
Lock the Borg Tcase some way some how. / Locked and working on a selectable option
HD rear shaft / Produced and waiting to be installed
HD CV and shafts / Out for pricing and possible production
Disconnect the BCM from the ECU "incase of failure the truck will still run" / I had a confirmation that this can be done just waiting on software to do it.
There was one more thing on the list and will get to that in a minute. Out of the 11 things listed above.
6 are complete
2 are in production
2 have a promising future
and one we did not even look at yet.
I feel like we're doing a pretty good job thus far.
Now that brings us to the last thing on the list waterproof the BECM.
I think we may have come up with something that could change the way we all think about our automotive computers and water. Here is a sneak peek at our new water guard system.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZ8TZdeFFNQ&list=UUUnCLXtAqip_9qd-T1NenbA&index=2
The water guard system is a chemically bonded bit of magic to the outside of the board that prevents water molecules from penetrating. The advantage is air can flow naturally over the board and it will not cause overheating issues.
What do you guys think?
When we started out with this truck we made a list of things to accomplish. Let's revisit it and see how we are doing.
3-5 in lift / 4 inch lift installed
Dump the 20in dubs for 16in and 33in mud tires / 33in Nittos installed
Front and rear bumpers / In production, just waiting on the first run.
Sliders / Installed
Front and rear lockers / They need to be installed
HD drag link and track rod / In production
Rear links that are not made from Fiberglass / Nothing yet
Lock the Borg Tcase some way some how. / Locked and working on a selectable option
HD rear shaft / Produced and waiting to be installed
HD CV and shafts / Out for pricing and possible production
Disconnect the BCM from the ECU "incase of failure the truck will still run" / I had a confirmation that this can be done just waiting on software to do it.
There was one more thing on the list and will get to that in a minute. Out of the 11 things listed above.
6 are complete
2 are in production
2 have a promising future
and one we did not even look at yet.
I feel like we're doing a pretty good job thus far.
Now that brings us to the last thing on the list waterproof the BECM.
I think we may have come up with something that could change the way we all think about our automotive computers and water. Here is a sneak peek at our new water guard system.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZ8TZdeFFNQ&list=UUUnCLXtAqip_9qd-T1NenbA&index=2
The water guard system is a chemically bonded bit of magic to the outside of the board that prevents water molecules from penetrating. The advantage is air can flow naturally over the board and it will not cause overheating issues.
What do you guys think?
Nice update and progress
Having the truck run with the BECM discconnected would be adventagous. (I carried a spare BECM and ECU on my GEMS and just aquired them for the 01 Bosch ).
Looking forward to seeing the rear bumper. Will it allow the stock tow bar to remain in place? (not that i tow anything, but it acts as a sturdy skid plate and a mount for the recovery hitch)
The water guard system test was succinct:victory: , how durable is the "treatment" does it have to be reapplied, or is it a one time application ?
Any news on the snorkle/ raised air intake?
Keep up the good work, :applause:
Having to replace all the front lights, bumper, hood and fenders has somewhat delayed my own progress:yawn: , California Brake and Safety RE test tomorrow morning. I failed because the ABS light was on with the vehicle stationary:bs: I have a letter from the LR dealership stating that this is "normal".
Only managed to install the rear tru trac, and Southdown rear diff guard so far.
Having the truck run with the BECM discconnected would be adventagous. (I carried a spare BECM and ECU on my GEMS and just aquired them for the 01 Bosch ).
Looking forward to seeing the rear bumper. Will it allow the stock tow bar to remain in place? (not that i tow anything, but it acts as a sturdy skid plate and a mount for the recovery hitch)
The water guard system test was succinct:victory: , how durable is the "treatment" does it have to be reapplied, or is it a one time application ?
Any news on the snorkle/ raised air intake?
Keep up the good work, :applause:
Having to replace all the front lights, bumper, hood and fenders has somewhat delayed my own progress:yawn: , California Brake and Safety RE test tomorrow morning. I failed because the ABS light was on with the vehicle stationary:bs: I have a letter from the LR dealership stating that this is "normal".
Only managed to install the rear tru trac, and Southdown rear diff guard so far.
so is this something you will sell and the consumer can apply it themselves? i'd rather not send out each piece of computer in my P38 to have it coated.
IE: outstations, BECM, Tranny, Engine etc.
IE: outstations, BECM, Tranny, Engine etc.
Project Update : Top to Bottom
New Rack
As much as we love the P38 SD rack, they are not very practical when compared to the modern racks on the market. So we stripped off the SD and slapped on a Front Runner unit.
We went with the Front Runner rack for a few reasons, but the main one was it can be swapped over to the the L322 Project truck or the LR3 for that matter. All you need to do is change the mounting feet.
The second factor is you can add almost anything to a front runner rack without drillling any holes. For example this double Jerry can holder. To mount it all you need to do is simply drop in the hardware to the pre existing locations and tighten down. It is that easy.
The shovel/ax holder is brilliant.
Moving down
The head liner in the P38 was coming apart from every corner. We pulled the liner out and and ripped off the fabric. This is what we were left with.
The fiberglass liner was still in good shape but it was covered in the remains of the fabric liner.
To remove the old liner film and glue from the fiberglass all you have to do is wipe it off, but we used a power washer and made quick work of the debris
With all the foam and glue removed it was time for the new liner. We stole this idea from Aarongregor on landroverforums. He did his headliner with a plastic / rubber paint and we thought it would be the best option.
After 3 cans we got this.
And in the truck
The P38 is being build for a hard life. A water and mud resistant headliner seemed like a better choice over fabric.
A little lower
With the truck on the lift we took this oppertunity to change the front drive shaft over to an L8 edition Tom Woods
Tom always makes our shafts with the super extended splines. This is extremely important when you have a truck with flex. It allows the driveshaft to extend during full articulation and still give enough room for complete compression
On the truck pic
How low can you go
Low tire pressure can be an asset on the trails. Unfortunately with low pressure you run the risk of popping the tire off the bead. To help prevent this ill side effect we install the Terrafirma bead lock rings.
After carefully torquing down all the rings for what seemed like an eternity we arrived at pure beauty
New Rack
As much as we love the P38 SD rack, they are not very practical when compared to the modern racks on the market. So we stripped off the SD and slapped on a Front Runner unit.
We went with the Front Runner rack for a few reasons, but the main one was it can be swapped over to the the L322 Project truck or the LR3 for that matter. All you need to do is change the mounting feet.
The second factor is you can add almost anything to a front runner rack without drillling any holes. For example this double Jerry can holder. To mount it all you need to do is simply drop in the hardware to the pre existing locations and tighten down. It is that easy.
The shovel/ax holder is brilliant.
Moving down
The head liner in the P38 was coming apart from every corner. We pulled the liner out and and ripped off the fabric. This is what we were left with.
The fiberglass liner was still in good shape but it was covered in the remains of the fabric liner.
To remove the old liner film and glue from the fiberglass all you have to do is wipe it off, but we used a power washer and made quick work of the debris
With all the foam and glue removed it was time for the new liner. We stole this idea from Aarongregor on landroverforums. He did his headliner with a plastic / rubber paint and we thought it would be the best option.
After 3 cans we got this.
And in the truck
The P38 is being build for a hard life. A water and mud resistant headliner seemed like a better choice over fabric.
A little lower
With the truck on the lift we took this oppertunity to change the front drive shaft over to an L8 edition Tom Woods
Tom always makes our shafts with the super extended splines. This is extremely important when you have a truck with flex. It allows the driveshaft to extend during full articulation and still give enough room for complete compression
On the truck pic
How low can you go
Low tire pressure can be an asset on the trails. Unfortunately with low pressure you run the risk of popping the tire off the bead. To help prevent this ill side effect we install the Terrafirma bead lock rings.
After carefully torquing down all the rings for what seemed like an eternity we arrived at pure beauty
