Making D2 Brakes Better - What's the Solution?

JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
761
95
Suffolkshire, UK
If you want a power bleed without a scanner/diagnostic tester, just remove the R10 ABS relay and jump the sockets with a 2 piece wire and normally opened switch for less than 10 seconds at each brake. Sorted.
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Howski

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2009
1,483
209
Alabama
I’m sure this has already been addressed but make sure your MC doesn’t have a leak. One of the o-rings tends to go bad. I fixed mine and it was improved but still a bit mushy. The lengthy brake pedal was probably the only part of the D2 driving experience I didn’t thoroughly enjoy
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
the one i bought was something around 200 bucks on sale... https://photos.app.goo.gl/DBJjzpzKjDXJbZHb6

Sweet. I'm always wary of those things because usually the one feature I want is the one they didn't include. It's nice to know it handles the modulator, too.

That said, the H2 used the same unit if I recall correctly. Maybe that's why it's supported.

You might want to make a separate thread about that for people to find.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

braves6117

Well-known member
Brakes on the D2 have always been, what's the term our thread is using ? So so....

Strap 4 passengers in it, or some trail armour and they become even more "So so;" You will have to adjust your driving style to accommodate time for stopping on a dime, should that situation be necessary.

I've changed many modulators and lines, and agree with kennith they're adequate for road use.

But if you're used to driving any other vehicle or sports car, they'll never live up to expectation, even replacing components.

Aside, of course it would be cool to have access to bleed the modulator electronically, bit it's not worth it IMO. Amigos are ever present.... Just waiting for the right time to establish there glory lol

Edit 1: spelling and a stupid try at amigos joke
 
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Swedjen2

Well-known member
Sep 12, 2018
594
127
California
Well, if anyone is familiar with Britannica Restorations on Youtube, he is pretty good at and not afraid of trying to figure out various issues with the Rovers he works on. Since he's in Canada - Sherbrooke, Quebec - he sees mostly 200/300 Tdi Defenders and Discos, to a lesser extent.
I'll send him a note and see if he wants to look into this. Wish this guy was a neighbor. Trained in the U.K. -old-school-and likes single malt.
 
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luckyjoe

Well-known member
Oct 10, 2004
455
118
New Jersey USA
Brakes on the D2 have always been, what's the term our thread is using ? So so....

Never having driven one, how do D2 brakes compare to a D1?

I always felt my D1 braking was just adequate, and lacking while towing. My RRC lWB on the other hand, is simply fantastic, at the cost of added complexity.
 

gthphotography

Well-known member
Aug 27, 2008
317
3
chicago
www.greghanrahan.com
I am super interested in this. My D2 had perfect breaks until the first brake change it even had. Mushy pedal ever since. Ever brake type. Changed to SS brake lines, bled the system like crazy. I have a nanocom now so I'll have to learn how to that. Hopefully that helps. I'll look into the modulator bleed as well. I hate it.
 

Swedjen2

Well-known member
Sep 12, 2018
594
127
California
I am super interested in this. My D2 had perfect breaks until the first brake change it even had. Mushy pedal ever since. Ever brake type. Changed to SS brake lines, bled the system like crazy. I have a nanocom now so I'll have to learn how to that. Hopefully that helps. I'll look into the modulator bleed as well. I hate it.


Unless you changed pads to some off-brand made of the yellow dust from the Middle Kingdom, sounds like you just need a proper bleed.
I don't know what company supplied the pads to Land Rover as new. I suspect Mintex. I guess they're "O.K.", but there are better ones out there.
I'd see what Will Tillery suggests before exploring other options. Phone him, not email.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
I've been running EBC for... Hell, about fifteen years now. I like them, and I used to do a lot of late braking.

The only issue I had was some production error that they corrected. They just had a bad run at that time, but it didn't last long and they replaced the stuff.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

Swedjen2

Well-known member
Sep 12, 2018
594
127
California
Kennith, I and a total newby to Disco's and have no clue about "obd2" What is it, what does it do. as we now have a Disco 2, should I have one?

What is OBD2? You already have it in your vehicle. What you need is an OBD2 reader that plugs in to a connector by your right shin.

Kennith, what is the frequency?
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
What is OBD2? You already have it in your vehicle. What you need is an OBD2 reader that plugs in to a connector by your right shin.

Kennith, what is the frequency?

If I knew the fucking frequency, I'd have tattooed it on my forehead years ago... :ROFLMAO:

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Kennith, I and a total newby to Disco's and have no clue about "obd2" What is it, what does it do. as we now have a Disco 2, should I have one?

On Board Diagonistics. Version two is just the latest requirement at that specific time.

Any time an individual system in the vehicle fails or fails to report properly, it leaves a code in the memory of the system. OBD II is a set of hardware and software standards that govern the service/inspection diagnostics and reporting of any new vehicle sold within the United States starting in 1996. Before OBDII, there were too many standards, too many connectors... OBDII was an improvement upon an existing system concept.

1: With a generic reader (available at any auto parts store) you can read mandated codes that will generally fail an inspection. You'll find them from $15 to around $50.

2: A manufacturer-enhanced reader (they don't all do what they say on the box) will pull some proprietary codes that are generally common among a few manufacturers; such as BMW and Land Rover at the time. These will land at around $30 to $400.

3: An after-market vehicle-specific diagnostic interface/computer (Blackbox Solutions and similar) will generally read every single thing in there, to the point where you can sit back with a laptop and turn on your windshield washer jets to scare people. These will generally require the purchase of an interface (just the computery part), and whatever software modules you think you need (think of this as buying unlock codes in a free-to-play video game, as it's all present to begin with; just locked away until you pay). You'll be stepping in at $300 and running up into the thousands depending on what you want, here. It's WAY easier than it used to be, though; and now they're pretty idiot-proof.

4: Dealership computers such as Testbook are more like the last option, but sometimes they aren't actually as capable. The After-market guys sit back and try to access everything you can imagine, but there are quite a few features hidden in vehicles that the dealerships have absolutely no reason to consider whatsoever, for any purpose you can imagine.

Doesn't mean you don't want to fuck with them, though.

The units suggested in recent threads are "Manufacturer Enhanced" units. I have invented that term for clarity in this reply, as no appropriate term exists.

I can take a picture of my vehicle-specific setup from Blackbox later, if you like, but they've released a more compact solution since then.

Cheers,

Kennith