mice?

Greg_M

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Dec 27, 2021
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Vancouver Island
Do rodents chew heater hose? Can't think what else this could be. There's nothing close by to chaffe it.
 

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discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
Sometimes mice are attracted to plastic or rubber if they use peanut oil or some other oil from a food source. Never seen them attack those heater hoses but maybe it’s some aftermarket hose made like that.
The knock sensor harness on a 4.4 or supercharged 4.2 are made of some peanut oil and the mice in Chicago loved the shit.
Now it’s the Evap hoses from the fuel tank up to the charcoal canister. They eat that fucking thing all the time.
I usually put Bounce fabric softener sheets that go in the dryer. Mice seem to not like that stuff and I feel like it’s not going to catch fire.
 

Greg_M

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Dec 27, 2021
238
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Vancouver Island
Forgot to mention I found this when I was looking around under the hood after experiencing high temps - 211 F Yikes! Steep uphill on loose shot rock. Heater full on, hood popped but still had to shut down for a bit to cool off. Using Ultragauge for temp gauge. Brakes were weak as well coming down as coolant temp got up there (related?). Low range first was struggling to hold it and the brakes weren't much help. Not really used to an auto box off road yet. Really wanted a stick and clutch today.
 

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
You should look at the backside of your radiator. The cooling fins rot off the tubes over time.
Your wife is probably right about the peppermint being a deterrent but it’s going to make a mess when it degrades in there. If it got to dried out it could burn.
 

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
Pictures suck for inspecting this stuff. Your kind of on your own with if that passes or not. But sounds to me like your radiator is a pretty likely cause. Once your going 15 mph your fan is not needed. You should check it to make sure it's moving air, but not likely causing any overtemp at speeds. Your talking about your truck running a little hot but not boiling over. Yet.
 
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boxster

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Jun 1, 2009
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Fallbrook Ca.
Pictures suck for inspecting this stuff. Your kind of on your own with if that passes or not. But sounds to me like your radiator is a pretty likely cause. Once your going 15 mph your fan is not needed. You should check it to make sure it's moving air, but not likely causing any overtemp at speeds. Your talking about your truck running a little hot but not boiling over. Yet.
Maybe remove radiator and have it flow and pressure tested.
 

Greg_M

Well-known member
Dec 27, 2021
238
106
Vancouver Island
Maybe remove radiator and have it flow and pressure tested.
I could, but would likely hesitate to put a 25 yr old rad back in service anyway so I'd replace it at that point. I can't see the inside of course (fluid is clean and bright green [not orange though]) but I've been over the outside of it pretty good. No debris, dirt, brittle or bent fins, pin holes.
The car runs low 180's to low 190's normally. The low range uphill crawling was the first time I saw 200 degrees.
What's the electronic logic for the condenser fans? I haven't owned a vehicle with AC before and haven't tried it yet on this car. A switch to kick the fans on might help a bit.
 
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robertf

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Jan 22, 2006
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Do rodents chew heater hose? Can't think what else this could be. There's nothing close by to chaffe it.

the factory heater hose is a reducer. That looks like someone jammed a straight hose over the bigger end and it exceeded its elasticity and ripped on the outside
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,718
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Northern Illinois
Forgot to mention I found this when I was looking around under the hood after experiencing high temps - 211 F Yikes! Steep uphill on loose shot rock. Heater full on, hood popped but still had to shut down for a bit to cool off. Using Ultragauge for temp gauge. Brakes were weak as well coming down as coolant temp got up there (related?). Low range first was struggling to hold it and the brakes weren't much help. Not really used to an auto box off road yet. Really wanted a stick and clutch today.
Keep in mind that if this was a regular old Chevy with only an electric fan, it might not get turned on till 211F. Might even go as high as 220. So if it’s not boiling over it’s not overheating
 

Greg_M

Well-known member
Dec 27, 2021
238
106
Vancouver Island
This might be much ado about nothing. If the heater hose is an overstretched straight pipe rodents aren't a problem. If I move the Ultragauge to the passenger footwell temperature isn't a concern. Happy day!
 

1of40

Well-known member
Oct 23, 2017
253
63
Va
I could, but would likely hesitate to put a 25 yr old rad back in service anyway so I'd replace it at that point. I can't see the inside of course (fluid is clean and bright green [not orange though]) but I've been over the outside of it pretty good. No debris, dirt, brittle or bent fins, pin holes.
The car runs low 180's to low 190's normally. The low range uphill crawling was the first time I saw 200 degrees.
What's the electronic logic for the condenser fans? I haven't owned a vehicle with AC before and haven't tried it yet on this car. A switch to kick the fans on might help a bit.
I have a 200K mile GEMS 4.0 that's on all its original seals and gaskets. It too stays in the 180 to mid 190's in normal driving conditions but when it's under considerable load it will climb to 210-215. I'm thinking this is it telling me I am due for a HG job.
 
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Greg_M

Well-known member
Dec 27, 2021
238
106
Vancouver Island
I have a 200K mile GEMS 4.0 that's on all its original seals and gaskets. It too stays in the 180 to mid 190's in normal driving conditions but when it's under considerable load it will climb to 210-215. I'm thinking this is it telling me I am due for a HG job.

This is interesting. The HG in mine was replaced by the PO so I don't believe that's my issue though I understand they could need replacement again at some point. Have you checked your fan? I only ask because I did and it seemed fine. But I've been under the hood quite a bit lately and noticed it spinning longer than I thought it should (or did the first time I checked). I've checked it several more times now and a bit less than half the time it comes to a reasonably quick stop while the rest it spins longer. I'm not familiar with the failure mechanism of these things but I don't like unpredictable mechanical parts. Thinking it has either failed, is failing, or will fail I searched for fan repairs here on Discoweb and there is an interesting thread ongoing right now. I wish it was as easy as ordering a replacement so I could tick that box. I can't see how it would matter but should I be checking the fan while the car is specifically hot or cold? I don't understand why sometimes it seems coupled and sometimes not.