Need to replace axle seal when doing ball joints?

nmacej

New member
Dec 14, 2017
1
0
Boston, MA/North Conway, NH
Hello:

I'm diving into doing my upper and lower ball joints (2003 D2), and when watching all the videos on the interweb, the consensus is to remove the half shafts along with the whole hub assembly for access. Do I need to replace the oil/axle seals if I remove the half shafts? I didn't order them, and won't be able to get them for at least a few days. I'd really like to just get started on this whole thing (doing brakes all around and a rear hub too). Anyone had any luck doing this without replacing the seals?
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,171
66
Raleigh, NC
Its a crap shoot. Sometimes you can get the axles in and out without touching the seals. I did my ball joints last year and replaced the leaky seal I messed up when I previously did my lockers. I also replaced the other side since I was already there.
Personally I wouldnt go that far and not replace the seals. It would be way worse to put it all back together just to find out you have a leak and have to take it apart again.
 

jprover2

Well-known member
Apr 8, 2017
146
10
Birmingham,Al
Its a crap shoot. Sometimes you can get the axles in and out without touching the seals. I did my ball joints last year and replaced the leaky seal I messed up when I previously did my lockers. I also replaced the other side since I was already there.
Personally I wouldnt go that far and not replace the seals. It would be way worse to put it all back together just to find out you have a leak and have to take it apart again.
X2, FWIW I did ball joints, hubs, and while I was there replaced axle seals 6 months ago. Driver side seal is good it came from AZ, pass side seal... not soo good. I've tried genuine "worst of all", britpart, allmakes. I'm going to try a axle next. Point being if it's not broke... Trust me I'm all about the mentality of while I'm here, but sometimes it's not worth it.
 

ExtremeDM

New member
Jun 24, 2019
1
0
Los Cabos
Hello , im brand new here .

Reading this post i think i have an axle leak, I have a DISCO 2002 so do you guys know which online store i can buy these seals from ??

Thanks !
 

jprover2

Well-known member
Apr 8, 2017
146
10
Birmingham,Al
You can purchase them anywhere. The oem front seal part number is ftc4822. Your local part store should be able to order them in.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
It should be noted that those ball joints are a press fit, and can only be replaced three (Maybe four... It's in the manual somewhere.) times before they're out of specification. It should also be noted that the press fit is EXTREMELY fucking tight. Stupid tight.

TOO tight. This is the kind of tight you've frequently hoped for but never encountered; unless the universe was just in a damned good mood when it was passing out dicks the day you were born.

Don't assume you'll have an easy time of it, and when you get down to stuff that sees so much vibration, supports so much weight, and requires such tight tolerance, torching isn't your answer, either.

The official tool is a screw-type hydraulic press that fits right on there, but it's expensive as hell; like $1,300 or something the last time I checked (but it would be damned useful to have around given it's pressure output, and I kind of want one). This is not an impossible job, and they come out easier if they've been replaced before, but it can certainly become something that's quite difficult on occasion.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

JohnnoK

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2017
193
19
Cape Town, South Africa
It should be noted that those ball joints are a press fit, and can only be replaced three (Maybe four... It's in the manual somewhere.) times before they're out of specification. It should also be noted that the press fit is EXTREMELY fucking tight. Stupid tight.

TOO tight. This is the kind of tight you've frequently hoped for but never encountered; unless the universe was just in a damned good mood when it was passing out dicks the day you were born.

Don't assume you'll have an easy time of it, and when you get down to stuff that sees so much vibration, supports so much weight, and requires such tight tolerance, torching isn't your answer, either.

The official tool is a screw-type hydraulic press that fits right on there, but it's expensive as hell; like $1,300 or something the last time I checked (but it would be damned useful to have around given it's pressure output, and I kind of want one). This is not an impossible job, and they come out easier if they've been replaced before, but it can certainly become something that's quite difficult on occasion.

Cheers,

Kennith
Have a look here, the tool is a big, heavy duty G-clamp, basically.
 

jprover2

Well-known member
Apr 8, 2017
146
10
Birmingham,Al
The tool kennith is talking about is the factory land rover tool with adaptors. Dingocroft.uk sells the tool, for roughly $1300.00 like kennith said. I replaced my upper and lower ball joints a few months ago using a snap on press CJ91 its old and tough. I tried a harbor freight bj tool (c-clamp) and broke it. These were the original bj's in my knuckle. They were hard as hell to get moving, but with my press and a BAH it was possible. Was it fun? Do I want to do the job again? No, but it is possible. Just a tip.. I lower the knuckle onto a 6x6 block of wood to let the weight of the truck help with stability ( so the shock and bushings are not taking every hit) and to help add pressure to the lower ball joints coming out. I would love to have the factory tool, i just can't justify the purchase.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Have a look here, the tool is a big, heavy duty G-clamp, basically.

You may get them off with a clamp-style press, or you may not. Anyone doing that needs to plan on failing a few times. You don't want to be halfway through and forced to stop with nothing else to drive. This is a simple job, but it's not always an easy job, and when it ain't easy it can take a while.

The tool jprover2 refers to is the correct tool for the job. You don't need it, but that's like not needing a winch because you have a Hi-Lift... Hell, it's even the same price. 🤣

The point is this job is something that can take a couple of hours or several days. There isn't much chance of landing in between if you're in the driveway.

Well, it can probably be done in less than two hours, but I'm not going to be that efficient unless someone's paying me to be.

Cheers,

Kennith