New improved spindle lock nut kits

[Jimmy]

Is there anything that prevents the jam nut from loosening up?

There is no need for the set screw. The jam nut is torqued to 135-150lbft. It won't come loose unless you've possibly had complete bearing failure and everything explodes. Dana-Spicer has seen no need for this extra step ever. Warn once did it for the D35 but they decided the cost wasn't justified either. If it would make someone happier I could produce the outer nut with 2 set screws for an additional charge. You could drill and tap your own nut to 8-32 and pick up set screws locally. You'd want to use a cone type set screw, not a point.

Thread revival.

I just figured out the above instructions for the jam nut differed from the one I received via PM when I bought two sets of these:
"To install - Remove the existing nuts (2 1/16" socket) and bendy washer. Install the new pinned nut with pins facing outward. Torque to 45ftlb (61nm) and rotate hub assembly to seat bearings. back off the pinned nut 90 degrees then hand tighten only (equivalent to 3ftlbs). There is play in the locking washer just like the bendy washer and this will allow the inner nut and washer rotate clockwise until that slack is taken up. Install locking washer. If holes do not line up rotate the inner pinned nut counterclockwise to next holes and reinstall locking washer. Install the original inner nut and torque to 45ftlb (61nm). Rotate hub to confirm it moves smoothly without binding. if it does bind remove outer nut, locking washing and rotate inner pinned nut counterclockwise one more set of holes and repeat installation of locking washer and outer nut. Replace tire and check for excessive play by grabbing tire top and bottom and rocking. No movement should be perceivable. Done."

I followed the PM'd instructions... and guess what (p m called it)... I just found the outer/jam nut loose on the end of the spindle. Mauled the spindle threads so bad I ruined the inner nut threads when removing it, and will need to replace the spindle. The inner face of the HD drive flange showed wear from the loose nut, but no damage. Sure wish the drive flange got ruined and not the spindle... since I have a spare one of those laying around. No such luck on the spindle.

The good thing was that the inner nut and the locking washer were still in place and doing their job. I had no excessive play in the bearings, which is why this was such a surprise to find. I only found it because I was removing the drive flange to install a new gasket and new thread locker on the flange bolts (which loosen up each year from the stress I put them through offroading).

Guess I better tear down the other corners and check their jam nuts.

*FWIW, I've been running these for ~14 months on a mostly wheeling, occasional drive-to-work, rig. Lockers front and rear, 255/85R16 tires on NATO steelies.

 

[Jimmy]

The thread pattern (1.625-16) is the same across many manufacturers. The lock washer is unique to the LR. Also, the nuts used by IH, Dodge, Ford, etc are thicker and do not allow full thread engagement on the shorter LR spindle without turning it down on a metal lathe (4 times). My kit does both.

Not true. To replace the ruined inner pinned nut, I picked up a set of the Dana 44 nuts. Yes, the inner nut is thicker. The outer nut is the same thickness as the LR ones. Using the OEM thrust washer, D44 nuts, and your custom washer, it places the outer nut at the end of the threads with full engagement. This pic was taken after torquing the outer nut:



Be sure to focus on the top edge of the spindle to see that the tapered portion of the spindle is sticking out from the outer nut. When I look at the bottom edge, it becomes an optical illusion and my brain tried to tell me the nut is sticking out from the spindle.

 

[CORover]

So this winds up being an expensive fix or at least annoying, having to use parts from 2 kits to get it too work? And the Dana socket, which you already had. Exactly what did you buy since I am in the same boat, just for the fronts though so far?