New Lr3 owner. Few questions

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,170
63
Raleigh, NC
Recently bought a 2005 lr3 with over 200k. Its in good condition, but has a few issues. The main one I was working on was a cold start belt squeal that doesn't really go away. Even after its warmed up. Just not as loud.
I have a new tensioner and belts coming tomorow.
I decided to get a head start on it by removing the fan and belts today. Thats when I noticed a small coolant leak from the tstat housing. Its dripping right onto the belt and tensioner, but its a tiny amount. Would that cause the squeal? I also noticed ( in my opinion) that the primary belt wasnt that tight compared to the other belt. Hoping the problem is a bad tensioner. Then I started spinning all the pulleys.

Thats when I noticed the water pump pully seemed to have some play in it. I took the pully off and I could move the shaft up and down a fraction of an inch. Enough to make it knock.

Im guessing thats unacceptable and it needs to be swapped out? Would that be where my noise is coming from??



Thanks!
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,170
63
Raleigh, NC
Ok I got everything replaced. No more squealing, but I cant get the air out of the coolant system. I pulled about a gallon out when I started. The level in the tank was originally overfilled. It dropped down to the full level. I started the engine and let it warm up, thinking that the coolant level would drop as the engine ran. It didn't move. I got the truck up to 200 degrees before I shut it off. Coolant in the tank hasnt moved. The heat was on hi as well.
Thoughts?
 

Howski

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2009
1,490
211
Alabama
Method that’s worked for me: Remove reservoir cap and fill > Drive til it reaches temp, check level and top off > repeat until coolant level stabilizes > put cap on and shut down vehicle. Check fluid when cold and top off as needed. These things can take a few days to get every last bit of air out so you may need to do just a little topping off afterward
 
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K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,170
63
Raleigh, NC
Im going to pull the upper most hose and fill it from there. I pulled about a gallon from there. Im hoping its just a big air pocket
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,170
63
Raleigh, NC
Filling from the upper hose got it circulating. I still have some air in the system but it seems to be working its way out.
 
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K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,170
63
Raleigh, NC
So squeak is back, but not at idle. Comes in around 1500 rpm. Moves with engine rpm. Then i noticed it goes away when the AC is on. Is that a bad AC compressor??

Also I have bleed the air out. Getting hot air in all vents except the driver middle vent. Its warm but not hot like the others engine temps are 194-201 with the ac on. Thoughts?
 

pinkytoe69

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2012
1,690
182
minnesota
Getting hot air in all vents except the driver middle vent. Its warm but not hot like the others engine temps are 194-201 with the ac on. Thoughts?

Your heater core is probably starting to clog...

 
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pinkytoe69

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2012
1,690
182
minnesota
No, I didn't replace it.

The CLR soak with hot water air flush got me from cold air back to lukewarm heat. It's not great but it is enough to at least keep my feet warm with only the bottom vents on at least. It's best if the passenger side is set to like 72°, so it doesn't steal all the hot air 😆

The results were encouraging enough that I'm going to try it again when it warms up a bit before I decide on actually replacing it.

The thread where I got the idea for all this, the dude poured boiler cleaner/descaler in it. I haven't benn able to find that stuff.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,727
1,022
Northern Illinois
Your heater core is probably starting to clog...


Nice work grasshopper
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,170
63
Raleigh, NC
So the squeak ended up being the idler pulley. It was the old design. Replaced with the newer design and now it's nice and quiet.
 
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