Thanks. I’m working till the end of August, then JLR in Wisconsin is on there own.
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- Thread starter discostew
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My 4 post drive on lift took a shit on me. It’s kind of old but still got years left. The ram is leaking. I can’t get the end cap off the cylinder to get inside and replace the seals. That would cost under $100. The whole cylinder is $2300. I payed $2500 for the thing installed 5 yrs ago.
So I was lucky and scored a used Rotary 10K lb 2 post for $3500 and paid a guy $500 to put it up. It’s 3 yrs old.
That should buy me some time on the cylinder fiasco
So I was lucky and scored a used Rotary 10K lb 2 post for $3500 and paid a guy $500 to put it up. It’s 3 yrs old.
That should buy me some time on the cylinder fiasco
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I had doing service work on a 4 post lift. That being said, I wish I had one for restoration work. I spend a lot of time these days on a creeper
I like having both. Now I’m set. Well after I figure out what to do about this cylinder.
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ptschram
Well-known member
LOL
20 years ago I did ESAs
Three years ago I was the Metallizing Engineer for a machine shop that among other things rebuilt HUGE hydraulic cylinders.
The biggest hurdle to hydraulic cylinder work is securing the cylinder so the packing nut can be removed. Applied Metals & Machine Works had a huge hydraulic vise to hold them in a big collet.
20 years ago I did ESAs
Three years ago I was the Metallizing Engineer for a machine shop that among other things rebuilt HUGE hydraulic cylinders.
The biggest hurdle to hydraulic cylinder work is securing the cylinder so the packing nut can be removed. Applied Metals & Machine Works had a huge hydraulic vise to hold them in a big collet.
The aluminum cap won’t budge in the steel cylinder. The retainer wire is getting or has been kind of hacked up. Not sure if that’s what’s keeping it from rotating at all. I had a 48” pipe wrench on it, my biggest bar holding it at the other end with a car sitting on the bar. I was lifting the corner of the Range Rover
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So... are we trying to get the cap off? If so assuming it has reverse threads? Or am I drunker than I feel and missing something?
Set the pipe wrench so the handle is a little closer to the ground, and hit it with sledge hammer, mimicking the effect of an impact wrench.
I bet you get hurt a lot.
The cap has no threads. There’s a slot in the steel tube that accepts a retainer wire. In theory you should rotate the cap counter clockwise until you can feed the end of said retainer wire up out of the slot. Then rotate the cap clockwise as you walk the retainer wire out of the cylinder.
I had a 48” pipe wrench on it and I was bouncing on the end of the wrench. I was lifting the left front corner of the Range off the ground
It’s going good when I get a chance to work on it. I worked thru some of its electrical issues and was going to pull the right valve cover off when my drive on lift took a shit. I can start on it now cause I have that 2 post up and going. But…my carpenter is in there building me a bathroom. So I’m trying to stay out of his way.
I had a scope on the cam sensors and I’m pretty sure both banks cams are both aligned together, but a tooth off at the Crank. I stack the cam sensors patterns on top of each other and can see they both think top dead center is in the same place. So the other way I could describe it is both banks are a tooth off? Both the same direction? But here’s a weird thing I’m also thinking. A wire repair was done to the twisted pair of wires to the crank sensor. I plan to make sure the two wires are going to the correct terminal on the ECM. Kind of a long shot but I guess it’s possible the leading edge and the following edge of the crank sensor could be flipped. Easy enough to check before I start tearing the valve covers off.
I had a scope on the cam sensors and I’m pretty sure both banks cams are both aligned together, but a tooth off at the Crank. I stack the cam sensors patterns on top of each other and can see they both think top dead center is in the same place. So the other way I could describe it is both banks are a tooth off? Both the same direction? But here’s a weird thing I’m also thinking. A wire repair was done to the twisted pair of wires to the crank sensor. I plan to make sure the two wires are going to the correct terminal on the ECM. Kind of a long shot but I guess it’s possible the leading edge and the following edge of the crank sensor could be flipped. Easy enough to check before I start tearing the valve covers off.
![IMG_6073[1].JPG](/data/attachments/54/54961-5bb6c92fb64aff20229b017fefd05204.jpg)
No but now I can get up in the attic way safer. But plenty of room to maneuver a wheel chair, grab rails, $1700 ish for the door and hardware.
It would be stupid to build a bathroom in a business without making it like this. I didn’t want to but had to agree it was the way to go
Hey I finally got back on this Range. I’m having to take it all the way down to the intake camshaft. This engine uses a camshaft reluctor wheel that bolts on the end of the camshaft. I believe it’s on the camshaft 180 deg. out. If I’m wrong this has been a horrific waste of time. But I’m about 98% sure.
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Not exactly sure what is wrong with that RRSC project, but I know the HPFP’s require the engine to be rotated to a specific timing point otherwise there will be problems. The timing mark procedure should show you if something is out. I’m sure you already know that.
Yeah the cams are locked in that pic and the timing tool is in the crank sensor. It’s a car I got cheap cause a friend lost interest in it. He put a used head on it and can’t remember what cams he used. But I think that wheel is in the slot wrong.
Interesting to see what happens!
Between this and the LR4 thread, it's good to see that major engine work on the 5.0 isn't completely an absurd undertaking.