New tire time+lift

Brianawd

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2010
76
0
So I have been waiting to do a lift on my 03 D2 tell the tires it has on it needed to be replaced. Well that time has come.
I have been looking at the RTM 3in lift. Now the only thing I am having a problem with is, what lift to go with. The 3in with the Bilstien or the 3in with the fox.
My D2 is my DD and ski rig. But I also want to start wheeling againe(used to have a jeep on 35s,d44 front and rear with arb air lockers)this coming summer. For the winter I will be running BFG AT sized 285/65/18 then later in the summer I am going to switch to some 16x8 wheels and some 285/75/16 bfg km2.
So is it worth the extra money for the fox or should I just go with the Bilstien.

Any advice would be great.

Thank you
 

leeawalden

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2005
2,401
1
Atlanta, GA
I have the fox 2.0 remote res shocks and really have been pleased. However, I know people out there running the 7100s that really like them also.

I'm sure you have searched around, there is a ton of info on this site. But, FWIW, don't be cheap when you do the RTE 3". Get the panhard rod and radius arms, and at least do your front driveshaft. Don't leave it at springs and shocks unless you do the 2" lift.
 

wheelen disco

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2010
1,089
0
rice lake Wisconsin
You'll need the Watts to , I've had fox shocks for two years I like them. You'll need a spacer in the rear unless you like the pre runner look. Also check mongo's signature I think he has foa's but I'm not sure of the name. There a bit cheaper than the others
 

leeawalden

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2005
2,401
1
Atlanta, GA
yeah, I need to do the watts, but was waiting to get my hands on a tube bender and make my own. Definitely go with D1 rear springs seats and 1" spacers or 1.5" spring spacers if you keep the D2 seats. I ended up not using the cross member spacers and just cut it out, I would have had to drill and retap the mounting bolts and just said screw it.
 

Brianawd

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2010
76
0
When I do order I'm just going to do the whole kit. I don't like half assing things.
These are the two kits I was looking at
http://www.rovertym.com/index.php/Discovery-Series-II-03-04/3-Suspension-Lift-Kit-with-Bilstein-Shocks.html

http://www.rovertym.com/index.php/Discovery-Series-II-03-04/3-Suspension-Lift-Kit-with-Fox-Shocks.html

I just don't know what shocks would be better for a D2 that will see a good amout of DD use. Meaning I don't know if the shocks are to soft.
Its all my winter ski rig and see lots of Mt driving in the snow. 3-4 days a week.
 

wheelen disco

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2010
1,089
0
rice lake Wisconsin
leeawalden said:
yeah, I need to do the watts, but was waiting to get my hands on a tube bender and make my own. Definitely go with D1 rear springs seats and 1" spacers or 1.5" spring spacers if you keep the D2 seats. I ended up not using the cross member spacers and just cut it out, I would have had to drill and retap the mounting bolts and just said screw it.
I didn't use a tube Bender, I just made new ones, the driverside is cut at an angle and gusseted
And I've yet to bend them
 
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Slappy

Well-known member
Jun 17, 2007
1,441
0
Santa Clara, CA
I run the 7100s and it is my DD, they're a great shock. Either shock and you should be good to go.

Lee, like wheelendisco, I didn't use a tube bender. I used DOM, tube inserts and heims instead of bushings. The 3/4"heims with high misalignment spacers were a perfect fit into the frame mount where the bushing end went.
 
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leeawalden

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2005
2,401
1
Atlanta, GA
thats not a bad idea...I hear you, honestly, I am wanting to get a tube bender for a few other projects I have been wanting to do. But I guess you could just cut the tube and weld it at the angle. The rover has been on the back burner for a while now and I'm not in any hurry to do anything lol.


brian, I would highly suggest ordering directly from them and not online...the new website is pretty jacked up.
 

Brianawd

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2010
76
0
Thanks for all the help guys. I will be ordering the RTM 3in lift in the next few weeks.

I have a few more questions that I know you guys can help me with. :)
So I just picked up a tcase from a wrecked 04 with all the linkage. What I was wanting to know is, when the Cdiff is locked is traction control turned off? If not, is there a way to turn it off?
Also after lift and tcase install I will be adding lockers this summer. Now with all the searching I have done, I get mixed info on what to go with. I have always used ARB's, but have been reading that a truetrack front and rear with traction controle works really really good. So arb's or trutracks

Also how does the traction control act with having locking diffs?

Sorry for all the questions. I have searched but did not find the answer I was looking for.
 

Brianawd

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2010
76
0
wheelen disco said:
Lockers work well with traction control. Your TC is on with the Cdl locked unless you turn the key off with it locked, then it is disabled

Now does doing that also turn off the abs? Or does it only turn off the TC


Thank you again for all the help. :applause:
 

KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
39
Fort Worth, TEXAS
Brianawd said:
Now does doing that also turn off the abs? Or does it only turn off the TC


Thank you again for all the help. :applause:

all or nothing.

it depends though on how the slabs module was programmed. my 99 does not disable the traction control, but it has the newest slabs module.
 

Brianawd

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2010
76
0
So after calling RTM they quoted me $2800+350for core charge+240 for shipping.
After looking around I see a lot of people just do there lifts peace by peace. So this is what I was thinking
RTM HD springs
Off set radius arms
Front lower shock mounts
Front spring retainers
Rear shock mount set
Rear spring retainers
Stuff I would order before summer so I can start wheeling are
HP Watts linkage
Panhard bar
ABS extensions
Front shock towers
Now for shocks I was just going to go with a set of 7100 from Eshocks. The only info I need help with is what size. If I remember right my back will only get around 11in of flex because of the HP watts. So would a 12in work for the back? and for the front I was thinking a 10in?
As for the brakes likes I can have them made locally for $15 a line.

Sorry for all the newb questions. I have been searching and search for the last 3 months but the info is hit and miss.

Thank you
 

kb3ejw

Well-known member
Oct 16, 2008
56
1
i did the terrafirma 3" lift with TF shocks at thanksgiving.
i ordered my lift from Justin at lucky8.I ordered front and rear Tom Woods shafts and brake lines at the same time.if i had known then what i know now.i would have ordered the front links and adjustable panhard rod as well.
i just ordered the the front end parts last week to finish up the front.will be ordering the rear arms and watts linkage when i save up some more pennies.

i would give Justin a call or visit his website and price things out there.

Good luck with ur upgrades

Dave
 

Brianawd

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2010
76
0
So new list
RTE 3in Springs
Front shock towers
Front lower shock mounts
Front and rear spring retainers
HP Watts linkage
New pan hard bar
ABS and brake lines
7100 short body 12in shocks.

Not sure on what to do about arms yet.

Any one know why RTM lists rear upper and lower shock mounts for a D2?
 
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leeawalden

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2005
2,401
1
Atlanta, GA
because their website is not right and its confusing.

All you have to do is grind the upper shock mounts a little and it will go in, you'll see when you go to do it. If you don't have a grinder, just buy a cheapo from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool, etc.

This is what I did right off the bat to make it work.

3" springs
Fox 2.0 Remote Res shocks (10" all around) Should of done 11" in the rear since I ended up adding DI spring seats and a 1" spacer, but its still ok.
Extended Brake Lines
Extended ABS Lines
Front LOWER shock mounts
Cut the front cross member out
Front Driveshaft - Tom Woods (did this when I did the 2" lift)

I also did at this time the front radius arms, drove it around before and after and it really does make a difference.

I did the panhard rod about 6 months later due to some confusion about the bushings not getting to me. It really does make a difference I would do it at the same time along with the front radius arms.

I'd do rear spring retainers if you run a 12" shock, but I'd still do them because they are cheap.

You don't NEED the front radius arms or panhard rod, but I would do them it just tracks better down the road. Also, you don't NEED the watts linkage, but do it if you want. I haven't done mine, but plan on bending one up, or doing a 4 link if I ever get the money.

Like I said, you don't NEED the cross member spacers. I just cut mine out since I broke a socket trying to get the original bolts off after heat and PB blaster for a few days, I was traveling back to school and didn't have a choice.

A lot of people run the 12" short body 7100s on this lift so you're good there. I just got a really good deal on my 2.0s on pirate.

Good Luck.
 

Brianawd

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2010
76
0
leeawalden said:
because their website is not right and its confusing.

All you have to do is grind the upper shock mounts a little and it will go in, you'll see when you go to do it. If you don't have a grinder, just buy a cheapo from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool, etc.

This is what I did right off the bat to make it work.

3" springs
Fox 2.0 Remote Res shocks (10" all around) Should of done 11" in the rear since I ended up adding DI spring seats and a 1" spacer, but its still ok.
Extended Brake Lines
Extended ABS Lines
Front LOWER shock mounts
Cut the front cross member out
Front Driveshaft - Tom Woods (did this when I did the 2" lift)

I also did at this time the front radius arms, drove it around before and after and it really does make a difference.

I did the panhard rod about 6 months later due to some confusion about the bushings not getting to me. It really does make a difference I would do it at the same time along with the front radius arms.

I'd do rear spring retainers if you run a 12" shock, but I'd still do them because they are cheap.

You don't NEED the front radius arms or panhard rod, but I would do them it just tracks better down the road. Also, you don't NEED the watts linkage, but do it if you want. I haven't done mine, but plan on bending one up, or doing a 4 link if I ever get the money.

Like I said, you don't NEED the cross member spacers. I just cut mine out since I broke a socket trying to get the original bolts off after heat and PB blaster for a few days, I was traveling back to school and didn't have a choice.

A lot of people run the 12" short body 7100s on this lift so you're good there. I just got a really good deal on my 2.0s on pirate.

Good Luck.

Thank you for the info. I have to say its some what confusing trying to pick through all the forms to find the right info.

I already orderd the shocks from eshocks along with the 1/2in to 12mm reducers. I will be ordering the rest of the stuff some time this week.
I am going to skip the armes tell after my tax return so that RTM can just ship the arms and front bumper at the same time. That sholuld only be a few weeks of driving on the stock arms.
 

leeawalden

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2005
2,401
1
Atlanta, GA
Yeah, like I said, its not like your truck won't drive without the radius arms, but its a noticeable difference...or at least I thought. FWIW I got the poly bushings instead of heims, never could get the heims to get quiet.
 

Urban Panzer

Well-known member
Feb 1, 2008
161
0
uk
www.discovery2.co.uk
KyleT said:
all or nothing.

it depends though on how the slabs module was programmed. my 99 does not disable the traction control, but it has the newest slabs module.

Your correct ref the SLABS modules, but on the earlier ones it is ONLY the TC that is 100% disabled. The ABS and HDC are retained but work at reduced parameters.
 
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