New to me LR4

degride

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2008
59
0
Seattle, WA
So I bit the bullet and purchased a one owner, 2013 LR4 Lux model from a Land Rover dealership. It was too good of a deal to pass up with 69k on the truck. And I got tired of looking and waiting for an 09 LR3 to pop up that met my criteria.

All that being said, while I actually enjoy wrenching on my DII (03 with 231k on the clock), are there manuals somewhere for the LR4s? Or is a monthly subscription to Topix the best I can hope for?
 

Swedjen2

Well-known member
Sep 12, 2018
63
2
California
231K on a D2? Is it the original block and heads? What oil, filter and coolant do you use and how often do you change the fluids?

Had to ask.
 

p m

Administrator
Callsign: AK6PM
Apr 19, 2004
14,116
3
53
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
are there manuals somewhere for the LR4s? Or is a monthly subscription to Topix the best I can hope for?
Yes - I don't have a link at hand, but if you check LR3/4 owners group on Facebook, there's a link. You can download a complete workshop manual for an LR4 (not sure about 13+ with a SCV6).
Topix also works; you don't have to keep monthly subscription, but you can pay your $39 or what they charge now and keep downloading pages until you're blue in the face. I did exactly that once when my LR4 died in Utah.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
4,488
2
Northern Illinois
I think access to topix is going to be your best bet. Keep in mind shop manuals are different than service info in Topix. Useful all the same, but most times overhaul of t case, engine, drive axles. Stuff like that. Topix will have bulletins, schematics, fail codes. Lots more info.
 

degride

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2008
59
0
Seattle, WA
Ok, great info. Appreciate it.

To swedjen2, here is the cliff-notes version:

  • Original engine and heads
  • Recently did the heads at 160k
  • Replaced oil pump, gears, front cover, timing chain, etc. at same time
  • Always used Mobil 1 and now use high-mileage Mobil 1
  • Use LR filters typically
  • Coolant used is Zerex G05
  • Change all fluids according to schedule (oil is every 3k-3500)
  • It's got a 2.5 inch lift, bumpers, rack, new shocks (OME) and a locking t-case
She's been a good one and will not be getting rid of her. I've had her up in interior BC and Alberta in the dead of winter all the way down to Baja in the dead of summer and everything in between. Never left me stranded on the trail. As you probably know, if you take care of these things they'll take care of you or at least that's how I have approached it.

55943
 

degride

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2008
59
0
Seattle, WA
Yes - I don't have a link at hand, but if you check LR3/4 owners group on Facebook, there's a link. You can download a complete workshop manual for an LR4 (not sure about 13+ with a SCV6).
Topix also works; you don't have to keep monthly subscription, but you can pay your $39 or what they charge now and keep downloading pages until you're blue in the face. I did exactly that once when my LR4 died in Utah.
Any chance you could post the link here? I don't use FB and see that it is a closed group. How did your LR4 die in Utah?
 

p m

Administrator
Callsign: AK6PM
Apr 19, 2004
14,116
3
53
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
Try this

In my LR4 the PWM fuel pump controller died. A $100 part made in Czech Republic by Ford, about 40 min to replace... Absent this knowledge = $1k+ tow bill +$700 at LR Scottsdale.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
4,488
2
Northern Illinois
Try this

In my LR4 the PWM fuel pump controller died. A $100 part made in Czech Republic by Ford, about 40 min to replace... Absent this knowledge = $1k+ tow bill +$700 at LR Scottsdale.
This is not a common failure. Not doubting it since you haven't had any problems. Lately I've seen some check engine lights because the fuel pump dwell gets a little high. The pcm likes to see about 26% and throws a light at 34% or so. I've been fixing them with a pump and the flange( the part that sits in the big hole). But I'm starting to think it's the flange alone. I think the one way valve is in it. So pressure bleeds off and stores the fault on cold start. Every cold start. You can watch the pressure bleed off by looking at the low pressure sensor.
I've also seen a handful of trucks burn the wires in the electrical connector to the flange. A couple times I've seen the flange get melted at the electrical connector and just store an Evaps leak fault but still ran fine.
 

p m

Administrator
Callsign: AK6PM
Apr 19, 2004
14,116
3
53
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
This is not a common failure. Not doubting it since you haven't had any problems. Lately I've seen some check engine lights because the fuel pump dwell gets a little high. The pcm likes to see about 26% and throws a light at 34% or so. I've been fixing them with a pump and the flange( the part that sits in the big hole). But I'm starting to think it's the flange alone. I think the one way valve is in it. So pressure bleeds off and stores the fault on cold start. Every cold start. You can watch the pressure bleed off by looking at the low pressure sensor.
I've also seen a handful of trucks burn the wires in the electrical connector to the flange. A couple times I've seen the flange get melted at the electrical connector and just store an Evaps leak fault but still ran fine.
I think it is more common than most people think. Ben Little had this issue - and more than once - on his LR4.
I was surprised that the truck just flat out died - without any codes, no CEL, no warnings. Once I was almost certain it was the failure, I considered wiring the fuel pump in series with a light bulb or something like that, to run it kind of halfway - but it was in a parking lot in Page, AZ, on a nice hundred-degree day, so I opted for a tow.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
4,488
2
Northern Illinois
Well when you say Ben Little had it fail more than once I kind of think he's got something else going on. Unless it's something geographic like heat you guys might experience, I would know if it's common. It's not.
 

p m

Administrator
Callsign: AK6PM
Apr 19, 2004
14,116
3
53
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
In both my and his cases, the dealer service managers (different ones) were adamant about failure being different. It took some persuasion to get them to look into that.
I am not familiar at all with stats of LR4-specific faults; the number of these sold in the U.S. make them as rare as 95 LWBs.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
4,488
2
Northern Illinois
It's all I do. I've been wrong before. But all the problem cars I get involved in I've never replaced one. I look at it's dwell all the time.
One thing we see a lot is the low side pressure sensor gets shorted and reads high when there really isn't enough pressure. Then the driver stops running the pump. Then the car will stall. I've seen lots and lots of front probed and loose female terminals in the connectors.
 
Reactions: p m

p m

Administrator
Callsign: AK6PM
Apr 19, 2004
14,116
3
53
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
Thanks, I'll keep this in mind as a possibility. Is it worth keeping a spare pressure sensor, and is it difficult to replace?
 

degride

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2008
59
0
Seattle, WA
So seeing this, I'm wondering if I should pre-emptively replace the controller (or at least keep one on hand in the truck) and/or replace the flange as well. I would hate to get stuck somewhere in UT and go through this. Of course, there are a million other things that could go wrong but. Wonder what else should be pre-emptively replaced (known weak points).
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
4,488
2
Northern Illinois
So seeing this, I'm wondering if I should pre-emptively replace the controller (or at least keep one on hand in the truck) and/or replace the flange as well. I would hate to get stuck somewhere in UT and go through this. Of course, there are a million other things that could go wrong but. Wonder what else should be pre-emptively replaced (known weak points).
Don't replace anything if it's not broke. Just drive
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
4,488
2
Northern Illinois
Thanks, I'll keep this in mind as a possibility. Is it worth keeping a spare pressure sensor, and is it difficult to replace?
If you have a 5.0 it's kind of a bitch. It's mounted near the right side of the bell housing. 3.0 is lots easier, it's mounted right at the front edge of the fuel tank on the trans crossmember.
 
Reactions: p m

degride

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2008
59
0
Seattle, WA
I agree on just driving but while my D2 has been a great vehicle, it's defined (or revealed) parts of my character. Some would even describe it as borderline hypochondriac. So wih the D2, while being a vastly different vehicle than the LR4, some parts I would replace before a long extended trip like Baja or Escalante...and yes, it's a 5.0.

Trying to find a used 14+ with a two-speed xfer case was an exercise in extreme patience; at least for the price point I was willing to spend. Overall, having only had the vehicle in my driveway for a couple of days, I love it. But I also love my D2 as well.

Serenity now, insanity later...
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
4,488
2
Northern Illinois
Ok, great info. Appreciate it.

To swedjen2, here is the cliff-notes version:

  • Original engine and heads
  • Recently did the heads at 160k
  • Replaced oil pump, gears, front cover, timing chain, etc. at same time
  • Always used Mobil 1 and now use high-mileage Mobil 1
  • Use LR filters typically
  • Coolant used is Zerex G05
  • Change all fluids according to schedule (oil is every 3k-3500)
  • It's got a 2.5 inch lift, bumpers, rack, new shocks (OME) and a locking t-case
She's been a good one and will not be getting rid of her. I've had her up in interior BC and Alberta in the dead of winter all the way down to Baja in the dead of summer and everything in between. Never left me stranded on the trail. As you probably know, if you take care of these things they'll take care of you or at least that's how I have approached it.

View attachment 55943