no start with a new good battery

jastutte

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2009
461
71
I'm having a no start issue with my '04 Discovery.

doesn't matter what battery I put in she will not turn over. in fact, often I get no dash lights.

where should i start looking? battery cables?

the Rover did get caught in a deluge of rain with the hood open overnight. Is there a chance something got wet that could cause this? I find that unlikely as the next day I was able to close the hood, start the Rover and drive her for three days before I had any issues with the starting.
 

Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
416
48
Ohio
It may be that your alarm is on on in some kind if stealth mode.

I recall having to pit the key in the driver side door and having to turn the key 4 to 5 times to the right.

Do a search for this and it should get you closer to starting the truck. Also you may have to have your hood shut to get truck started.
 

jastutte

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2009
461
71
i ordered some "military" style terminal connectors and installed them. the Rover fired right up.

there was a good amount of corrosion on both the negative and positive cables. little bit of trimming and new connectors and all is good.

now i just need to figure out why my HVAC blower isn't working and why i'm getting ABS codes along with the TC and HDC lights on the dash.
 

Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
416
48
Ohio
Make sure your terminals and hardware connected to the battery are clean.

Make sure your cables are connected on all ends.
Check to see if your cables might be corroded, if so replace.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jastutte

jastutte

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2009
461
71
Make sure your terminals and hardware connected to the battery are clean.

Make sure your cables are connected on all ends.
Check to see if your cables might be corroded, if so replace.
i did all that.

trimmed corroded cables, new connectors, new battery.

i'll check the ABS codes later and try to reset them.

the blower going out may just be coincidental timing. the Rover has a little over 200,000 miles, so it may have just crapped out.
 

jastutte

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2009
461
71
Toran is right about security. Try holding the key in the crank position for 15 secondes.
the Rover is up and running again.

right now i just need to get the HVAC blower motor working. it's in the 90's and humid as hell here in St. Louis, MO.


assuming all the relays are working correctly, could i throw a multi meter on the connector to the blower motor and measure for power when i change the fan speed from the HVAC head unit?

there are two relays on brackets attached to the blower/fan assembly.

when i change the fan speed at the head unit i am getting a click from the relay closest to the engine bay. no click from the relay closer to the passenger cabin. i've been reading the D2 Electrical Library but it's a slog.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
We’ll what’s going on on the wires when it’s clicking. It’s probably a good relay and you have a circuit problem. Like excessive resistance in the ground or battery feeds.
 

jastutte

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2009
461
71
dropped the fan today and had a hell of a time disconnecting the plug. turns out the harness side of the plug had burn marks and was melted some. burn marks on both the male and female metal connectors, as well. i'm going to get some 10 gauge bullet connects and hook it back up to see what happens.

why would the connector melt but the fuse not pop?

i will be testing the fan itself by powering it directly, but i have a new fan on the way as a spare if not needed. i figure with 3 D2s i'll need it eventually.
 

jastutte

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2009
461
71
removed the old burnt connector, stripped the wires and put on some new connectors. insulated them and then tested it. the blower now works.


now, on to the ABS fix. if i can't figure it out i'll start another thread later.

thanks to all who replied in this thread.
 

jastutte

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2009
461
71
the ABS issues resolved themselves. codes went away on their own and TC and ABS are working as intended.

i assume there was moisture fucking with some connectors or wiring and it eventually dried out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ukoffroad