P38 Upgraded Adjustable Panhard Bar

StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
295
130
Atlanta, GA
I recently upgraded a set of a adjustable panhard bars for one of my P38s and figured I would share for the handful of people that want to modify their RR. I started with a worn out set of Toddco adjustable panhard bars, which are just stock bars that have a 3/4 in.-16 RH Male Thread bung welded into the frame end with a matching heim joint.

The only adjustable panhard bars available for the P38 that I know of are these Toddco ones, but both sets I have used a stock unknown-mileage bushing at one end and a rough heim joint at the other. I prefer new urethane at both ends of panhard bars, and Toddco is difficult to get in touch with these days.

Step 1: Either buy a set of Toddco adjustable panhard bars, or cut the frame ends off the stock panhard bars and weld in a 3/4 in.-16 RH Male Thread bung. There are tons of Jeep/Toyota articles on how to do this, so I'll skip to what I actually did here.
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Step 2: Buy two 3/4 in.-16 RH Male Thread rod ends of your choice. I have used Johnny Joints in the past, so I bought two Rock Jock Johnny Joint polyurethane rod ends (CE-9112N75-14). However, the front rod end and frame mount have to be ground down a little to use these. The rear fits fine. Speedway Motors makes traditional polyurethane rod ends that will work without modification thanks to a smaller outer diameter (# 91008036). These will also probably be a little more forgiving, but I like the strength of the JJ. You will also need polyurethane bushings for the axle end of the panhard bar to replace the stock bushings. I bought a set from Lucky8 (# RBX101340PY).
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Step 3: Press the center eyelet out of the factory bushings on the axle ends of the panhard bars. Then, make two opposing cuts in the steel bushing race left behind. Obviously, don't cut into the bar itself. Using a cold chisel, start at the edges made by the cuts and fold the race in on itself. Press the folded race out. There are other ways to remove bushings, so do what you like. I just prefer this process.

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Step 4: Spray the new bushings with silicone and press them in by hand. Insert the bolt eyelet after the bushing is seated.

Step 5: Grease the threads on the new rod ends and locking nut, then screw them into the bar.

Step 5.5 (for Johnny Joints): If you went the Johnny Joint route, grind down the casting marks on the casing facing the LH side of the truck (facing away from the panhard bar). It doesn't take much to clear the frame mount. Paint the exposed metal after grinding. On the frame mount for the panhard bar, there is a butress plate on the engine bay side that terminates in an horseshoe-like arch. You will need to clearance the tiny points on the bottom of this arch. It doesn't take much to clear the Johnny Joint, and make sure to paint the bare metal cuts.
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Step 6: Adjust and install the bars. Make sure the grease fittings for the Johnny Joints are facing down, and only use silicone grease to lubricate these. Petroleum-based greases will degrade polyurethane.
 
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