Pick My Next Vehicle

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
When you want something strong and will deal with a shitty turning radius the Disco1 is the best hands down.
Then for all the soccer moms the independent suspension smooths stuff out and better turning radius. But kind of a pavement princess LR4.
The extra power and more gears make the LR3 tow way better than a Disco1. Even a pretty light load makes the Discos work it’s ass off. I would tow about 1500 lbs of ATVs on a 900 lb trailer.
 

Blue

Well-known member
Mar 26, 2004
10,043
856
AZ
Everything is DIY-able.


Bill,

Since I still have both my 290-kmi Disco 1 and an LR4 at my house... I'll skip my feelings towards LR4's reliability for now.

Utility-wise, LR4 wins hands down. The first trip we made to the mountains blew my mind away - going up a 7% grade from 4500 to 7500 ft with six people, at 80mph, 2200 rpm in the 6th gear? For the D1 it would be a 55-mph, 4500-rpm in the 2nd gear proposition.

But now, whenever I drive the LR4, I feel like I'm driving a bus. Disco 1 was a lot more personal driving. Like a Classic - you see everything around you, you can sneak into whatever narrow hole there is (between the trees or rocks, that is).

I don't long for LR4 whenever I drive the Disco or any of my Classics. Actually, I want an un-fucked D1.
I've been wondering where you were on this thread!

I know your D1 had been to the moon & back & then some but you're a bit different when it comes to maintenance and repairs than most of us. And you just have plain shitty luck with your LR4.

I was on the road a couple days ago and saw a cream puff stocker D1 driving the opposite direction. Made me long for the summer of '99 when I bought my '96 D1 and joined dweb.
 
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MM3846

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2014
1,221
161
LI, NY
But now, whenever I drive the LR4, I feel like I'm driving a bus. Disco 1 was a lot more personal driving. Like a Classic - you see everything around you, you can sneak into whatever narrow hole there is (between the trees or rocks, that is).

Yea, but its way better than driving any other modern SUV with massive pillars and relatively small windows, the LR4 is great compared to all those. We just picked up a new lease for my wife.. an Atlas Cross Sport and that thing goes all in on the limited visibility train; it's like driving a chopped Merc.
 
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bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
6,178
152
US
I want to retain access height capability on the LR4, what am I looking at tire size wise to retain access height and full air suspension capability? Do I need any hardware/software to "maintain" the air suspension?

Here is the present plan, is this realistic?

- LR4 with HD if I can find it
- Lift, TBD, don't even know what is required? Johnson Arms, new airsprings ,etc?
- Tires: TBD other than I like Nitto and BFG would like some advice here especially considering desire for retaining decent access height.
- Compomotive wheels
- Rear bumper, seems like tactical rover, with hitch, water can rack, spare tire swing out.
- Front bumper, proud rhino, + skids.
- Sliders... not sure, proud rhino
- frontrunner drawer kit
- Roof rack? TBD. The only reason I would do this is for awning and solar. I hate shit on the roof, but wifey would appreciate awning.

Use case: Solo back country/remote use. Trail use, probably no mode difficult than Fins and Things, Hells Revenge as popular examples.
 

MM3846

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2014
1,221
161
LI, NY
I want to retain access height capability on the LR4, what am I looking at tire size wise to retain access height and full air suspension capability? Do I need any hardware/software to "maintain" the air suspension?

Here is the present plan, is this realistic?

- LR4 with HD if I can find it
- Lift, TBD, don't even know what is required? Johnson Arms, new airsprings ,etc?
- Tires: TBD other than I like Nitto and BFG would like some advice here especially considering desire for retaining decent access height.
- Compomotive wheels
- Rear bumper, seems like tactical rover, with hitch, water can rack, spare tire swing out.
- Front bumper, proud rhino, + skids.
- Sliders... not sure, proud rhino
- frontrunner drawer kit
- Roof rack? TBD. The only reason I would do this is for awning and solar. I hate shit on the roof, but wifey would appreciate awning.

Use case: Solo back country/remote use. Trail use, probably no mode difficult than Fins and Things, Hells Revenge as popular examples.
You don't need a "lift." 265/65-18s fit just fine without any mods besides figuring out a spare solution.. whether its shoving it up in the stock location almost flat or getting a tire carrier which you already plan on.

I like APT's skids/slider, but I haven't bought any yet. Going to start with the front and air compressor ones, the factory gas tank and "front diff" pieces are plenty adequate for overland-style use IMO.

For the roof, I have a set of Yakima bars, and might end up with some sort of cheap platform on top of those. What I like about the Yakima bars is that I can leave the "feet" on the stock roof rails and pop the bars off in seconds so I don't have to drive around every day with a sail on my roof. I'm going to be putting an 8ft awning, probably maxtrax, and some sort of water storage/shower thing up there.
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
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La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
265/65-18s fit just fine without any mods
It's LR4, remember? At the very least, a set of larger-offset 18" wheels is needed - TF or Compomotive, or LR3 wheels with spacers.
And I internally cringe whenever I mentally compare two Timken 37 bearings spaced out on D1/RRC/Defender axles with unit bearings on much heavier LR3/4.
Also
The limiting factor on the tire size is the frame - 255/60R19 is the largest tire one can fit on LR4 without rubbing against the frame. Also, 265/65-18 is only barely larger in diameter than 255/60R19 and wider.

Bri - Johnson rods are a means to trick the EAS into thinking the vehicle is on the bumpstops while it isn't. If you go this route, make sure you have the wheels realigned, otherwise you'll be buying tires in bulk.
 

MM3846

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2014
1,221
161
LI, NY
It's LR4, remember? At the very least, a set of larger-offset 18" wheels is needed - TF or Compomotive, or LR3 wheels with spacers.
And I internally cringe whenever I mentally compare two Timken 37 bearings spaced out on D1/RRC/Defender axles with unit bearings on much heavier LR3/4.
Also
The limiting factor on the tire size is the frame - 255/60R19 is the largest tire one can fit on LR4 without rubbing against the frame. Also, 265/65-18 is only barely larger in diameter than 255/60R19 and wider.
ya, he's got compomotives in his to-do list. IIRC with the right offset (compos have it) you aren't rubbing the frame horn with that size. when my toyos wear out I want to go to 255/70-18s but thats going to take some creativity. If airing down for the beach wasn't my #1 wheeling activity I'd be perfectly ok with the 255/60-19s all the time but I'd like a little more sidewall.
 
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p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
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La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
ya, he's got compomotives in his to-do list. IIRC with the right offset (compos have it) you aren't rubbing the frame horn with that size. when my toyos wear out I want to go to 255/70-18s but thats going to take some creativity. If airing down for the beach wasn't my #1 wheeling activity I'd be perfectly ok with the 255/60-19s all the time but I'd like a little more sidewall.
Whenever I take the LR4 off pavement, I never air down, even slightly, for that exact reason.
But it means greatly increased wear on the LCA bushings and struts.
People put 33s and taller tires on these trucks, but it is a lot more work.
 

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,899
450
Darien Gap
If you want a bit more tire and zero hassle, 31" tires are the way to go. 32" is where you just begin to see fitment issues.

I had 265/65R18 KO2s (31.5" ) on my LR3 with minor rubbing, and no rubbing after installing BORA 3/4" spacers.

On my new LR4 I just installed 255/65R19 Duratracs (32.1" ) but haven't dropped to bumpstops yet to see how fucked I am. I do have another set of those BORA 3/4" spacers on hand though. I didn't see a strong case for dropping ~ $1500 on 18" wheels for 1/2" sidewall if I can make this setup work.
 
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Howski

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2009
1,483
209
Alabama
On an LR3 a 31” won’t rub on bump stops and imagine it’d be close to the same on a LR4. Think the best tire in 255/60/19 is the Toyo AT3. That’s what I’ll go with next if I don’t switch to steel 18’s for the hell of it
 

Blue

Well-known member
Mar 26, 2004
10,043
856
AZ
I'm running 285/60/18s (31.5") on Compomotive wheels. I rub on the front frame horns that are behind the front tires (see pics). I had the driver's front wheel off last week when I was rotating in my spare and I used my grinder to shave down the driver's side horn a bit. Hit it with some black spray paint and you can see that it's still rubbing. I guess I could just cut off that front corner section and smooth down the edges. I also rub on the plastic fender lining on the front side of the tire when I'm in reverse with the wheels cocked so I trimmed the leading edge down (see pic, red circle).

I'm thinking of replacing these tires with something a bit more aggressive. These Nitto Terra Grapplers are fine tires but they're just all-terrains and they struggle in deep gravel and sand and of course mud. I should have known better after running BFG ATs for years on my D2 and then switching to Cooper Discoverer STT Pros. I'd like another set of the Coopers but they don't make 285/60/18 so I may try 275/65/18 (32.3"). I know that the 285/65/18 (32.9") will be too much. Man I wish I could return to the 285/75/16s I had on my D2.

I run the X-Lifter electronic lifter. Link. It really works well. I was a little skeptical of running the Johnson Rods so I found another option. The best part of the X-Lifter is that there is no speed limiter. So you can bump up to one of the X-Lifter presets (+15mm, 25mm, 55mm, 75mm) and cruise without being told to slow down and then having your truck drop back down to standard height on it's own if you don't obey. Or you can choose your own adjustment in 5mm increments. It also rides so nice offroad in +25 to about 45mm like you're in the airbag sweet spot. I think the X-Lifter max lift is about 125mm if you have the stock suspension in high mode and then you max out the X-Lifter. I normally run offroad in +25 or +55 in big rocks or ruts. I never touch the stock suspension buttons. I've only used +75 a few times to get up a big obstacle. You can also drop down to the bumpstops for that slammed ghettolicious look. It's actually nice for the kids while camping and I've used it help my dad out of his wheelchair and into my truck. The self-leveling feature is great too for camping...although my self leveling went nuts last week when I was camping...I need to pull into the garage and re-calibrate it.

For roof racks, I really like the ProSpeed (see Lucky8). I actually bought one but it was taking so long that I cancelled. Maybe I'll look into it again. This morning I brought home a 3/4" x 4' x 8' sheet of plywood from Home Depot on my Thule cross bars and it was a pain in the ass. Also see the Gobi and Voyager roof racks. The Gobi is a little goofy but I really like the Voyager low profile. But the ProSpeed is really the shiznit. Shit, just checked L8 and ProSpeed is SOLD OUT. Maybe Voyager low is the way to go at $1400.

edit - I just saw that Lucky8 has a Terrafirma roof rack option. Looks pretty nice. Link.
 

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MM3846

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2014
1,221
161
LI, NY
Whenever I take the LR4 off pavement, I never air down, even slightly, for that exact reason.
But it means greatly increased wear on the LCA bushings and struts.
People put 33s and taller tires on these trucks, but it is a lot more work.
These trucks are such heavy pigs, you’ll be on the frame in 15 seconds without airing down at the beach unfortunately.
 

Howski

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2009
1,483
209
Alabama
Blue have you looked at 255/70/18? A skinny 32”, even a bit narrower than 265/75/16. A buddy of mine is running them on his D5 and likes them. Narrower tire might help with rubbing.
 

Blue

Well-known member
Mar 26, 2004
10,043
856
AZ
Blue have you looked at 255/70/18? A skinny 32”, even a bit narrower than 265/75/16. A buddy of mine is running them on his D5 and likes them. Narrower tire might help with rubbing.
I'll check em out!
 

StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
295
130
Atlanta, GA
I like the General Grabber 285/60/18s on my Compomotive wheels. I have a Nanocom, but have not lifted the truck as I want it to fit into parking garages. The tires only rub on the frame horns in reverse near full lock. If I were twisted up offroad they would probably rub, but I didn't buy it for that. I have been meaning to break out the plasma cutter and torch the frame horns off, then weld on a plate in their place. Nothing against Johnson Rods, but I would lift via software like Blue (Xlift or Nanocom).

Maybe it is the 285s, 5.0, or very good traction control, but my LR4 is great in Florida sand even with added weight of the steel bumpers. That said, I have been told sand out west is even softer than our sugar sand.
 

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,899
450
Darien Gap
Nothing against Johnson Rods, but I would lift via software like Blue (Xlift or Nanocom).

I did 1.5" rods because I figured that's around where I'd like it to be anyway, and it'd keep the sensors in their happy range. I also purchased a GAP IIDTool to fine tune the height and as a powerful diagnostic tool for the rest of the vehicle.
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
I think I am going to give up the maintenance on my P38 H&H (2001) and D1 LSE (1998).
Sell the Rangie and take the money to refurb the Disco. Get it totally detailed and enjoy a very classic Rover.
If you want a luxury ride get one and park it next to the Rover.
 
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bri

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
6,178
152
US
Sell the Rangie and take the money to refurb the Disco. Get it totally detailed and enjoy a very classic Rover.
This is my 2nd D1. Had 2 RRC. It is minor compared to the first. So been there done that for 28 years. It has rear ARB locker, rockware trailing arms, rockware track rod, rockware pinion guards, rockware frame sliders, rockware cat guard, OME HD lift. New 235/85. 4.11 gears.

Interior is 6/10. Solid engine.

Make me an offer. The parts might be worth.pushing $3500. Add almost new tires. Pushing 4k worth of stuff. Decent disco, needs a bit of work. How about you take it for 7500?

Trying to get to 1 vehicle that is capable with access height for wife.

I hope the 2001 RR H&H details out nice. Rare vehicle. Really cool, but not perfect. All working though including EAS.
 
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