Rear brake line repair kit

D

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,727
1,022
Northern Illinois
pinkytoe69 said:
@discostew or @jymmiejamz

Do these rear line repairs work for the RRS too?

LR056967 LH Rear
LR056968 RH Rear

I figured they do, but the listings all say theyre only for the LR3/4...

https://www.lrdirect.com/lr056967-tube-brake?sort_direction=1

https://lucky8llc.com/products/lr3-lr4-rear-brake-pipe-to-caliper-assembly-rh-lr056968-genuine
Click to expand...
I' m not sure if they fit. My guess is it would work the way I do them. I don't use the whole pipe. I cut them up near the driver door sill area. I flare a union in or use the steel compression fittings. It's gotta be the steel ones. You can get them at advance or nappa. I say I think it would work that way because the Sport is a little longer than the LR4.
 
pinkytoe69

pinkytoe69

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2012
1,690
182
minnesota
discostew said:
I' m not sure if they fit. My guess is it would work the way I do them. I don't use the whole pipe. I cut them up near the driver door sill area. I flare a union in or use the steel compression fittings. It's gotta be the steel ones.
Click to expand...

So the whole taboo on compression fittings and brake lines is only for the older brass ones? These new steel things are actually okay?
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/product/10600418


This guy just used new copper-nickel and fed it all the way to the back...seems pretty easy after the exhaust is dropped out, which also doesn't seem too bad.

 
D

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,727
1,022
Northern Illinois
Yeah your right about it being taboo. Yest the compression fitting neeeds to be harder than the pipe your connecting. I know a lot of people who don't like the steel ones either. I've used them enough times that I stopped worrying about them. They work just fine.
For what it's worth I don't take the exhaust out when doing the pre bent lines. I do get about 10 of the plastic anchors that hold them up to the body. Those are going to break as you pull the line out of them. I've used that soft brake line befor too. It works but I think the pre bent stuff is easier.
 
pinkytoe69

pinkytoe69

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2012
1,690
182
minnesota
discostew said:
For what it's worth I don't take the exhaust out when doing the pre bent lines.
Click to expand...

Going to try using non-formed lines, so I took it out 😄

Aside from having to sawzall one of the bolts and a stubborn rubber hanger, It's pretty easy. There's so much room now.

Kind of like biting the bullet and just taking the intake off of a D2 to do the coils...

discostew said:
I do get about 10 of the plastic anchors that hold them up to the body. Those are going to break as you pull the line out of them.
Click to expand...

Geez you weren't kidding about these... Talk about one time use.
 
D

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,727
1,022
Northern Illinois
pinkytoe69 said:
Going to try using non-formed lines, so I took it out 😄

Aside from having to sawzall one of the bolts and a stubborn rubber hanger, It's pretty easy. There's so much room now.

Kind of like biting the bullet and just taking the intake off of a D2 to do the coils...



Geez you weren't kidding about these... Talk about one time use.
Click to expand...
Yeah those plastic clips never make it. Is the pipe you’re using that stuff that’s super flexible? I like that stuff and I’ve never had a problem with it.
 
pinkytoe69

pinkytoe69

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2012
1,690
182
minnesota
discostew said:
Is the pipe you’re using that stuff that’s super flexible? I like that stuff and I’ve never had a problem with it.
Click to expand...

Got some of this:

PXL_20230129_220351453.jpg

And yeah it's pretty bendy compared to steel.

The bummer part is it was $70 for 25 ft, and I think I'm going to end up being just short with that amount.
 
pinkytoe69

pinkytoe69

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2012
1,690
182
minnesota
Also, on my 2009 it looks like the rear lines do not go all the way to the ABS block.

They come up to a junction on the firewall, and then continue on to the block. Given there are salt barnacles all over the lines, I think I'll run them all the way to that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: discostew
pinkytoe69

pinkytoe69

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2012
1,690
182
minnesota
Much like beer, nickel copper line is proof that Jesus loves us and wants us to be happy.

It's so malleable that you can easily feed driver and passenger side from the rear to the firewall with no junctions in between. It's a one-man job with a second set of hands only helpful, not necessary.

25 ft is just enough, but you will need more than 140" on the driver's side to use the stock route from the rear cross member. I didn't have enough slack and had to go from *the bottom".

The Maddox flare tool from harbor freight makes SAE bubble flares. I returned it and got one of these from ECS:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-aut...ertorvs0qjm0DzWas0zHtUgmAq3d7W1RoCuOEQAvD_BwE

Makes some nice mushrooms with very little hassle:

PXL_20230211_010954994.jpg

If you had to use custom steel line, this would be an absolute nightmare.

With nickel copper & a good flare tool, this is a very manageable DIY job. I live in full-on rust country too, and I was even able to reuse all the fittings as they were basically rust free.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: MM3846
D

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,727
1,022
Northern Illinois
That soft stuff is great. I wasn’t all that trusting of the stuff at first. But I’ve been using it for a decade now with no issues. I feel like it’s to easy. Guilty almost.
As far as the clips go I think you’re correct on the count. I buy a bag of ten and hope I can leave a few unbroken.
 
pinkytoe69

pinkytoe69

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2012
1,690
182
minnesota
jymmiejamz said:
I get the coated steel tubing that looks like the factory lines. I don’t have a problem flaring or bending it using good quality tools.
Click to expand...

In that situation of a D1/D2, no problemo.

I have no idea how you would go about doing that with a steel one-piece line all the way from the rear of a D3/sport. Trying to get the right bends from the wheel well to the firewall would be insanity inducing I would think.

Also the area under the middle of the doors is a pinch point. With tube that doesn't rust, not a biggie, but with steel I would think that would scratch the hell out of the coating as you feed. Also, since it bends downwards there, you have to bend it right back up again to continue feeding forward by the cats, which would be horrible with stiff steel I think.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom