Rear Main Replacement - Stuck Rear Main Bearing Cap

_ExpeditionMan

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Dec 11, 2017
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In the middle of a rear main seal and cruiciform seals replacement and the rear main bearing cap will not come off ('96 D1). The rear main seal is out already. On step 3 in the RAVE, with both bolts (marked number ten) are out. I've tried gently prying with extensions in the main bearing cap holes, a rubber mallet. Got nothing. Am I missing a step? If not, does anyone have suggestions?
 

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discostew

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Not sure what year vehicle your working on, but if it's a GEMS engine it's got cross bolts going in the side of the block also. You need to get the starter out to access the one on the passsenger side. The picture you posted is of a '95 model year vehicle or older.
 

_ExpeditionMan

Well-known member
Dec 11, 2017
295
34
Texas
Not sure what year vehicle your working on, but if it's a GEMS engine it's got cross bolts going in the side of the block also. You need to get the starter out to access the one on the passsenger side. The picture you posted is of a '95 model year vehicle or older.
Hmm, looks like my signature isn't showing in mobile view. Updated my post above to reflect the year (1996). Well cross bolts would definitely cause the problem.

Adding context from the RAVE GEMS engine manual. So the cross bolts you're referring to are the ones marked as number 7 in the first image but I only need to remove one on each side closest to the rear. Image two shows reinstallation but as part of a whole crankshaft replacement (step 11) followed by final torquing to 45 Nm (image 3).
 

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discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
Yep. Those are the ones. Put blue thread locker on those bolts to act as a seal in those threads. You should think about replacing the cam bore plug when your in there. We would do the rear main cross seals and cam bore plug. Be careful not to grind the RTV off your oil pan. That ridge down the center is critical. I clean them with a bench mounted wire wheel. It makes a mess but doesn’t effect that ridge.
I see from the picture the cross seal coming out the back of the cap. I put a dab of RTV right in the center of the cross and push it down into the cap. A purist would tell you that’s incorrect and I would have a hard time defending it but..I see them all come apart like yours did. I figure the RTV will kind of keep it in the center of the cross. Technically I believe you should only put engine oil on the cross seal. It’s one of those do as I say not as I do thing.
 
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_ExpeditionMan

Well-known member
Dec 11, 2017
295
34
Texas
Yep. Those are the ones. Put blue thread locker on those bolts to act as a seal in those threads. You should think about replacing the cam bore plug when your in there. We would do the rear main cross seals and cam bore plug. Be careful not to grind the RTV off your oil pan. That ridge down the center is critical. I clean them with a bench mounted wire wheel. It makes a mess but doesn’t effect that ridge.
I see from the picture the cross seal coming out the back of the cap. I put a dab of RTV right in the center of the cross and push it down into the cap. A purist would tell you that’s incorrect and I would have a hard time defending it but..I see them all come apart like yours did. I figure the RTV will kind of keep it in the center of the cross. Technically I believe you should only put engine oil on the cross seal. It’s one of those do as I say not as I do thing.

Core plug is already out! One of the two galley plugs was walking out so that's getting resealed and reinstalled. I appreciate the tips for the cross seals it'll be my first time doing it. I'm going to order new dowdry washers for the two cross bolts. I suspect one of them was leaking to begin with.

What do you mean by careful not to grind the RTV off my oil pan? Do you mean the feature that runs around the pan at the center of the mating surface?
 

discostew

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I've seen people use the grinding wheel to remove all the RTV on the pan. Yes that feature that runs around the center of the mating surface. The wire wheel on a bench grinder will take off the RTV very well.
 

_ExpeditionMan

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Dec 11, 2017
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I've seen people use the grinding wheel to remove all the RTV on the pan. Yes that feature that runs around the center of the mating surface. The wire wheel on a bench grinder will take off the RTV very well.
Yikes! Who the heck thinks a grinding wheel is the way to go... I always use a wire wheel on a drill with plastic scraping tools.
 

_ExpeditionMan

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Dec 11, 2017
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Texas
People do it all the time. The wire wheel makes very short work of it.
Do you typically replace the dowdy washers? RAVE calls for it and I believe one of mine is leaking on the drivers side. Per AB it's one of the following two part numbers:

ERR3330G
ERR3331G
 

discostew

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Land Rover hasd a bulletin about sealing the threads with blue med strength thread locker. Probably because those washers leak. So back then before everything was digitalized like it is today they cant go in and change the service info when they change something. I don't think either way its going to make much difference. I've done hundreds of them and never ever replaced one of those washers. Don't make it right but I didn't have any problems because of it, I always put the thread locker on the threads
 
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_ExpeditionMan

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Dec 11, 2017
295
34
Texas
Land Rover hasd a bulletin about sealing the threads with blue med strength thread locker. Probably because those washers leak. So back then before everything was digitalized like it is today they cant go in and change the service info when they change something. I don't think either way its going to make much difference. I've done hundreds of them and never ever replaced one of those washers. Don't make it right but I didn't have any problems because of it, I always put the thread locker on the threads

I appreciate you sharing your real world expertise. I'll definitely use medium strength thread locker when I reinstall.