Let me chime in on this painful subject.
Intermittent rear windows have been a matter of fact in all four Rovers I own - two 95 Classics and two 96 D1s.
LRFlip's quote of an old post warmed up my interest to it, so I figured I'd give it a go.
In the LWB, I did exactly what is said in
Don Herrero's write-up, but the board turned out to be different - instead of AY2D, it was silk-screened AY2E:
Fortunately, on this board, the bad solder joint was very obvious:
The board's overall appearance suggested that somebody's been there with a soldering iron already - yet this joint was missed. Quick dab with rosin-core solder, the board went in, and the windows worked like a charm.
Next one was a white 96 D1. The best part of it was that I didn't have to unfasten the two nuts holding the rear end of the controller box - the box is mounted just a little bit different, so I could free the board by opening the clips with the knife blade, and pull the front plate out using a dental pick. I don't have a photo of this board - but there was more than one bad joint, and in different locations than shown in the photo.
Encouraged with the results, I popped the glovebox lid on the other 96 D1. Remarkably, the box was mounted angled down, just like in the 95 LWB. I managed to unscrew both nuts, but the enclosure wouldn't budge even a bit - I could not get the board out. However, it turned out an older AY2D board, with the bad joint exactly where Don Herrero indicated - so I resoldered it without getting the board out of the box.
Ever since that link was posted recently, I've started looking at the other tech articles. DW is a great resource, and it is not limited to the bulletin board.