Rebuild advice...

AGH Sasquatch

Well-known member
Aug 7, 2013
58
0
Eastern ky
So, i have a 4.0 out of a d2 with 80k all apart.

I replaced this engine because the hg's were both leaking and i was unsure of the history (bought used). However the block i replaced it with is bad. Rather than purchase another used unit i am sending the first engine in to have heads and block pressure tested and tested for warpage etc.

The block and heads look good. I put a square across all surfaces and i cant see any warping or cracks. No evidence of liners slipping. I am hopeful that all is well with the block. i see no signs of any internal leaks but both hg's were leaking externally at the rear coolant channel. Both hg's broke and bent outward here. Also the rear bolts on the pass side were considerably more loose that any other bolts.

I was having another issue with this engine. In the am/after sitting a while the oil pressure would loose prime and would dry start. the crank smelled of exhaust to me but i cant be sure. I am hoping this was because of the loose bolts on the rear pass head i mentioned/exhaust gases getting in and killing the oil prime?

Bottom end looks pretty bad to me. The main bearings look ok to me but there is some light pitting in a few places even a burn mark on one. The rod end bearings were all worn: at least 50% copper showing through on all of them. Wrist pins all ok. If block tests out ok, i am going to have them check the crank shaft as well and see if i need to upsize bearings or not. Hopefully not.

Anyway, this will be my first rebuild sand first time messing with a bottom end so i am just looking for advise here. If all goes well i am estimating $800-1000 in the rebuild. Does my plan and thinking seem on par?

What are your thoughts on top hat liners? cost?

Cam bearings look ok, should i replace them or not? Have machine shop test them? The cam in it has a worn lobe. However, i have a good cam/lifters in the replacement engine. Thoughts on putting used cam in used cam bearings?

Any advice appreciated!
 

pjkbrit

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
542
0
I honestly don't see you getting away with $800-1000....if the block and heads were 'good' you would not have two failed gaskets. Getting the top hat liners set up in your block will cost at least that alone presuming the block has not cracked. Given the looseness of those bolts you mentioned I would bet it has some cracks! The crank MAY be ok....maybe not if there was pitting and scoring in the old bearings. Better off reworking a 4.6 in any event....yes...also has the same issues but it's a MUCH better drive in a Disco.

Your oiling issue bothers me also on the one you have....you are in for a pump and front cover at a minimum and for sure the heads need milling and the block decking, (and crack testing)....all told there is a lot of machine shop work here. I'd spend THAT money on a 4.6 and have the 50lbs/ft more torque for the money you'll be spending anyway....

Make sure you use ARP studs and nuts.....the stretch bolts are a BAD idea....they overstress the threads in the aluminium block helping to cause cracks and, as you have witnessed, they let go if you are unlucky!
 

AGH Sasquatch

Well-known member
Aug 7, 2013
58
0
Eastern ky
Really, all i want to do is take the 2 4.0 blocks i have and get this thing running well enough to sell to someone with a clean conscience.

I have a good front cover and pump on the replacement engine. My thinking is that the oil system loosing prime was due to either worn bottom end bearings or the crank getting pressurized from leaking/loose hg. It had good pressure when running just looses prime when sitting.

I have a good cam and lifters from the replacement engine. This is why i asked about putting a used cam in used cam bearings? If its not a good idea, i will put in a 4.6 cam and new lifters reusing the old pushrods.

I will not fool with top hat liners if the block tests good. Not keeping the truck for myself/not fixing things that may or may not happen (since i found out the cost is so high).

All this is based on what i find out from the machine shop. The guy did say the crank shaft looked pretty good to him so i am hopeful no turning needed.

This is all good stuff keep it coming. Tell me more about the ARP studs and nuts...
 

pjkbrit

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
542
0
ARP Studs and nuts enable EVEN application of torque across the head using nuts that tighten up in an entirely predicatable response to torque.....stretch bolts are less precise and apply pressure by twisted compression that requires a LOT more stress and torque being inflicted onto the aluminium threads in the block....a terrible idea and they seem to un-stretch over time allowing head gaskets to blow or worse they may even be the root cause of many a cracked block after so many heat/cool cycles. They are a one time only use....the Studs can be used over and over.
I would NEVER rebuild an aluminium blocked engine with stretch bolts...
 

AGH Sasquatch

Well-known member
Aug 7, 2013
58
0
Eastern ky
So where can i get them. Also, what is involved in the installation? Why dont everyone use them/what are the cons?

thanks! They sound great so far!