Rebuild front drive shaft or buy Tom Woods or Great Basin?
- Thread starter Roverfire
- Start date
antichrist said:
Thats because the weight difference is inconsequential, just bolt the part in and run it.
Yer killin me....and if you call into the shop that built that drive line they will mock you once you are off the phone, I guarantee it.... :rofl:
Maybe there isn't anything in the manual about ujoints. That does sound like something they would leave out. But everything I've read anywhere states to install the ujoint with the zerk under compression. I would be interested to find one source that specifically states NOT to do it that way.antichrist said:
Roverfire, what'd he say?
He said that's the way he's always done driveshafts(propshafts). He always does them with the zerks lined up. He mentioned he's been doing them for 30+ years that way with no problems in vehicles that are way more powerful than land rovers. Not sure what to think. Forgot to ask if by me changing the position of the joints would void any kind of warranty. The shaft is made of top quality components though.
Did he seem to understand the principle of orienting the zerks so they were under compression? Given what he said I would run the driveshaft as is and not touch the ujoints. If one breaks due to the zerk not being under compression you can bring up the conversation you just had with him.Roverfire said:
My nipples line up horizontally level on my chest keeping me perfectly balanced when i do somersaults and backflips.
Key word is "maximum". Do you need that for a Disco? Extremely unlikely with 1310 series u-joints.antichrist said:
My point was I don't get building something and not making it as strong as possible when it costs zero $$ extra for parts or labor. That's all I was getting at.
More important in this case is maintaining it correctly.
Finally had some time to install the new driveshaft/propshaft. Was fairly easy to install and made a big difference. I always had a clunk in the drive train somewhere but just thought it was normal. It was most noticeable when I would coast then apply the accelerator. It would do this even after I had the shaft rebuilt the first time so I thought it was just some slack in the drive train.That is completely gone now. Here's a pic of the new and old shaft.
KyleT said:
What do you need? I think I have a nearly brand new DC rear shaft in the garage. What bolt patterns do you need? It's Rover D1 at the case. I can't remember if its Toy or Rover at the diff.
It’s been a long while, so resurrecting this discussion since I’m in the market for a front DS. Anything new on the Tom Woods vs GBR debate?
You can call Tom Woods and actually talk to someone on the phone that builds your drive shaft versus talking to someone that has them made for them. I never cared for the attitude that GBR has so have never done any business with them.
Will Tillery sells the TW drive shafts and has them at a great price.
Will Tillery sells the TW drive shafts and has them at a great price.