Rebuilt Transfer Case?
- Thread starter Steve M
- Start date
Can't tell you - but it looks like some ROW Defenders' LT230s are affected. After driving one in the UK, I was amazed just how much slack in the driveline is taken up whenever you let go of the gas pedal. Automatics seem to keep the gears in contact most of the time, so my uneducated guess is the LT230s behind manual transmissions are worse.
I don't know what was the worst leak in my D1's original case - most likely the rear yoke seal.
This has always been my experience driving a D110 in South Africa. After several thousand km on a TD5 D110 I haven't yet mastered the technique to keep it smooth. The owner of the D110 drives it with such finesse that you'd think you were in a BMW. Then again, he also has three Series Ones that he drives with equal aplomb, so an R380/LT230 combo practically is a BMW by comparison.
Yeah, I think one might want to contact them before sending any money their way. The copyright is 2006 and there's this.
Toddco Suspension Contact Info?
Has anyone ordered and received anything from Toddco in the last few weeks? I know their communication has never been stellar, but I ordered an adjustable panhard bar on the 8th and still have not received it or a tracking number. I emailed both email addresses several times but it has been...
discoweb.org
I brought the site into this thread because of the underdrive. Would hate to think I caused anyone any grief because of it.
Our 2003 110 in Brasil was really smooth. No clunk and shifted without effort.
Same for Blueboy our 109 which had the same drivetrain only with gas engine.
Guess it is luck of the manufacturing draw.
I recently purchased a 96 D1 with 155,000 miles. As odd as it sounds, this is the first auto D1 I have driven much. It has a noticeable clunk. In fact, I had planned to ask the group here what you all may think is the problem. I have another 98 auto but it needs a lot of suspension attention before I can drive it more than in and out of the shop. But, I didnt notice any clunk with it. However, I may not have had enough opportunities as of yet to know.
My 2 other D1s, both R380, exhibit no clunk at all but both have lower mileage, 70K and 55K. I have an old Santana with LT85 / LT230 and it is a major clunker at 115,000 KM.
None of the transfer cases leak. Well, let me potentially correct myself. I can’t be sure where all the oil is leaking in the Santana. it’s quite the clunker and leaker.
My 2 other D1s, both R380, exhibit no clunk at all but both have lower mileage, 70K and 55K. I have an old Santana with LT85 / LT230 and it is a major clunker at 115,000 KM.
None of the transfer cases leak. Well, let me potentially correct myself. I can’t be sure where all the oil is leaking in the Santana. it’s quite the clunker and leaker.
It's also the love of the owner. I'm sure my friend in South Africa could service the drivetrain on his Defender if he wanted to. I think his technique lets him live with performance that I would address if that was my truck. I have driven really smooth 300TDI/R380 Defenders and those are a pleasure.
check the engine and transmission mounts. All my biggest clunks in my rovers have been worn out mounts. cheap place to start and can be swapped in an afternoon.
i have the 1.2 and 300tdi in my Disco. When I went to 32in tires I had to do something. I didnt have enough power to pass semi trucks when going up a slight hill or facing a head wind. I considered a 1.4, but it doesnt change your low range ratio. Thankfully I lucked into some 4.10 gears and that made the real difference I was looking for.
Did you need a change in low range ratio? I felt it was low enough to break an axleshaft or CV joint even with a TrueTrac.
I didnt have to have it in this rig, but i've been on some slick trails where touching your brakes while going down hill can end in disaster. My other rig is on 35's with a 1.2 and a V8. It definitely needs a lower low gear. The comparatively lower compression V8 doesnt do as good a job engine braking as the diesel does.
It isn't fun at all.... I haven't done the TC on it's own as I did my box and TC rebuild together, but it is a heavy bit of kit and it needs to be aligned well to fit it iothout nicking or damaging a seal. I'd make a copy of the official lifting tool and go about it very slowly with studs to aid alignment if I were DIY-ing it by itself.
As a unit, the R380 and TC hang very nicely on a chain block dropped down the gear shift hole and if positioned well, don't need much rotating at all to install. I made 2 A frames that fit in the cabin, one over the tunnel in front and another behind the drivers seats and with a length of pipe between them, I was able to hang the 2 boxes by myself with minimal fuss.
Here's some food for thought - it occurred to me the first time in Moab about 15 years ago.
I don't think it is a matter of a diesel or gas engine - all LR diesels have lower torque numbers than gas ones, so the compression braking should reflect that. It is auto vs. manual.
Sometimes your safe speed downhill is way less than the compression braking would afford you with an automatic. In essence, if you keep your transmission in the 1st / low range, your brakes are fighting both the slope AND your own engine trying to chug along.
In this respect, it is easier to drive down in Neutral.
On many occasions, I drove downhill with transmission in Reverse - which was awesome because it gave me beautiful braking action by feather-light tap on gas pedal.
I could never get a decent answer from people more familiar with autoboxes than me - whether it is detrimental to the transmission or not - so my reasoning was that there's no lock-up engaged in the 1st gear, so spinning the transmission gears in the direction opposite to the engine rotation should be okay as long as the engine speed was nowhere close to the stall speed of the torque converter.
Of course, all of this only applies to non-computer-controlled automatic transmissions (RRC and D1).
Now, about low range gearing. Since all my traction aids are TrueTracs, and I have never ran tires taller than 32", I use brake pedal liberally whenever one or more wheels are up in the air. I have never come across a situation when I didn't have enough torque at the wheels, yet I've broken three or four axleshafts and CV joints. So while I definitely appreciate finer speed control and engine braking a 4:1 low range or 4.11s in the diffs can offer with a manual transmission, I don't see upsides for lower low-range gearing with an autobox.