Rebuilt Transfer Case?
- Thread starter Steve M
- Start date
$500 might be a little optimistic for a rebuild. Lower mileage used units are available for less than $300. Buy one, swap in new seals and make it a quick in and out at your shop. LT230 transfer cases typically last a very long time. They are also relatively easy to R&R.
But, to answer your question, I believe Southwest Rovers in Albuquerque will rebuild your transfer case. I have one of their rebuilt R380 gearboxes.
But, to answer your question, I believe Southwest Rovers in Albuquerque will rebuild your transfer case. I have one of their rebuilt R380 gearboxes.
I was just saying if his is good, why spend a bunch of money on a different unit versus just a few dollars to reseal it. It’s just an oil leak.
I agree as long as it doesn’t show obvious wear on inspection, which may not be obvious until removal. If it does, it’s super helpful and economical to have one ready to go to swap in. I recently purchased one (90,000 miles) from a well know seller of used parts here for about $300 including shipping with a lifetime replacement warranty. I put some new seals in it before I brought the D1 into the shop, brought it in the shop, pulled the old one, swapped the new / used one in. Bing, bam, boom, back on the road in less than 3 hours.
I agree, more than likely, it just needs seals. If a person can manage with their ride out of service for a week or few weeks, on the chance it needs more than seals, that would be my financially preferred option.
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I also bought a low-mileage transfer case recently with the same intention, however it's still sitting in my garage. Pray tell your tricks for such a swift R&R. I don't have access to a shop to do my own work and having researched the procedure it doesn't look like fun in the driveway.
I can’t really estimate the time it took for the first R&R on a D1. It was definitely more than 3 hours. Second time, experience being a great teacher, it was 3 hours. And, I have a lift and transmission jack. I have only done it twice. I’m sure someone more experienced and skilled than I am could do it much faster than that.
Probably one of the most important tips I can give you is to make note of each mounting bolt location. There are two different sizes and if you put a longer bolt where a short one belongs, you can destroy the gears.
Otherwise it’s fairly easy and straightforward. Just heavy and awkward. A little floor scissor lift makes it a bit easier.
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I bought the full reseal kit from AB, did the reseal myself, and it still leaks all over. Thinking of switching from Mobile1 to non-synthetic just to see if that helps, but the biggest thing is to try to not worry about it too much. "If it's leaking, you know it's not dry!"
IIRC, I paid $650 for an Ashcroft 1.4 rebuild (+a trip from San Diego to Tucson). And that felt like a good deal.
But a leaky transfer case is annoying as hell. Besides the driveway spots, I hated the rear window completely covered with oil droplets.
The old LT230s will also leak through intermediate shaft bores that get worn out, and that is something that requires precise drilling and sleeving. Not many places would do that.
Just for curiosity checked the DIY kit from Ashcroft - they include the intermediate pin O-rings. AB's kit seems to have them, too.
But a leaky transfer case is annoying as hell. Besides the driveway spots, I hated the rear window completely covered with oil droplets.
Don't know what the kit covers, my guess would be the yoke seals and maybe the side cover.
The old LT230s will also leak through intermediate shaft bores that get worn out, and that is something that requires precise drilling and sleeving. Not many places would do that.
Just for curiosity checked the DIY kit from Ashcroft - they include the intermediate pin O-rings. AB's kit seems to have them, too.
Roverland Parts has rebuilt transfer cases ready to swap in:
Roverland Parts - Your source for Land Rover Parts
OEM Parts and Engines for Land Rover Range Rover, Discovery, Evoque, Velar, LR3, LR4, and Freelander. Roverlandparts sells used and refurbished parts at the lowest price in our extensive selection online. Providing FREE ground shipping in the United States, we are professional dismantlers of...
www.roverlandparts.com
So I don't want to hijack this thread but.. Looking around I came upon this. Don't believe I've seen anything like it. Anyone have any experience with them. I would wonder if they are reliable.
Interesting, on the OPs first question, this vendor does offer a rebuilt transfer case. $699 on sale
I think most times if oil is coming out between the t case and the trans its the o ring on the counter shaft. That and the front seal getting all jacked up because the output shaft extension was left on the trans. On the Disco 2 it was really easy to reseal both of those cause the shift cables give you some room to move the t case back and set it on that crossmember.
I would love to have an underdrive, but the prices for any of them are always outrageous. Even the Maxi-Drive gear is stupid money for what it is.
IDK, if you look solely at the initial purchase price, yeah seems steep. But to me, things like this need to be averaged out. Keep your rig for 10 years and you're at $300 a year. Is that worth it? If I wheeled a lot then yes, well worth it. If I go wheeling twice a year maybe not so much. Or, if I sell the rig two years later maybe a questionable buy.
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The other ones will raise your RPMs. For a V8 otherwise in stock configuration you want to drive on the interstate, stay with stock.
I will admit, in my 300tdi I am considering going to 1.4. The fastest it ever goes is 60mph on 2 lane mountain highways. The 300tdi in that environment would benefit greatly from this change.
I will admit, in my 300tdi I am considering going to 1.4. The fastest it ever goes is 60mph on 2 lane mountain highways. The 300tdi in that environment would benefit greatly from this change.
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