RTE Steering Upgrade

scottsdalerrc

Well-known member
May 21, 2009
1,024
1
central pa
I've got most of the parts to do this but was searching around for some pics or a 'how-to' outline of sorts to no avail (though i've never been very proficient at the dweb search for some reason).

If anyone can offer any tips, links, especially what TR ends i need (something about an extra LH) that would be extremely helpful.

I have both track and steering rods, damper and relocation bits. would like to finally tackle it this weekend with such nice weather.

Cheers
-B
 

scottsdalerrc

Well-known member
May 21, 2009
1,024
1
central pa
Thanks all!

From RTE ('m still iffy on the LH/RH TRE's though)
For Tie Rod/Drag Link
Remove original cotter pin and nuts from steering linkage being replaced.

Using a pickle fork, remove the factory linkage. If a pickle fork is not available, carefully hit the sides of the steering knuckle casting with a hammer until the tapered tie rod end pops free. Do NOT hit the steering linkage or the tie rod end directly.

Remove factory tie rod ends from original linkage and install supplied jam nuts on to the ends.

Install the new tie rod/ drag link and adjust for alignment. Once alignment has been set, tighten jam nuts. Jam nuts MUST be tightened.

edit: just saw your post Brett. that would make sense, thanks.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,907
182
Lake Villa, IL
I'd skip the pickle fork and proceed right to smacking the knuckle with a BFH. The pickle fork has a tendency to rip the boots on the TRE's.
 

scottsdalerrc

Well-known member
May 21, 2009
1,024
1
central pa
yea, BFH works for me. though they say to simply re-use the oem TRE's so its still some inconsistent info on which and how many for the TRE's.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,907
182
Lake Villa, IL
yea, BFH works for me. though they say to simply re-use the oem TRE's so its still some inconsistent info on which and how many for the TRE's.
I could be wrong one how many of which ones you need. Just call Bill at RTE and ask. Then post back here so I can make sure I have the proper spares for mine. :)
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
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La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
Replaced the drag link on the LWB last Sunday with an old TRE link. One RH and one LH TREs.
Couldn't get the old TREs out with a sledge - had to use a fork.
 

rwhitmo04

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2011
130
1
North Alabama
I could be missing something here, but if you have both of the new steering links, then why is there a need to ask RTE about which TRE's you need? Just check the threads on the new links.
 

Buddy

Well-known member
Nov 6, 2006
2,839
0
Central NC
Unless they are some new fancy contraption you will need 2 LH and 3 RH TRE's. the part numbers end in 69 and 70. I can't remember the first part. Otherwise you would not be able to adjust them once they are installed. The Factory track bar has that stupid double joint on the passenger side for adjusting toe in and out. That's why the factory setup uses 3 and 1 rather than 2 and 2.
 

cupgt

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2011
573
1
Upstate SC
whatever you do, don't ask ian bock

Eat shit Zack, when you drink beer and fab shit sometimes it takes 2 tries. It should be 2 RH and 2 LH. I wouldn't bother reusing stock ones. I got greasable ones for less that 20 bucks each. And good luck with BFH trying to get the pitman arm TRE to turn loose because space is real tight above it.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,907
182
Lake Villa, IL
Eat shit Zack, when you drink beer and fab shit sometimes it takes 2 tries. It should be 2 RH and 2 LH. I wouldn't bother reusing stock ones. I got greasable ones for less that 20 bucks each. And good luck with BFH trying to get the pitman arm TRE to turn loose because space is real tight above it.

Yeah the pitman arm TRE is a real MoFo to get loose. I was able to squeeze a floor Jack in there and Jack against the frame I think.
 
Jan 3, 2005
11,732
61
On Kennith's private island
I don't know why they say not to hit the linkage with a hammer to break the TRE loose. I've been doing it for years and it works fine. It's not like it's going to bend or break. Might mar it up maybe...

Your best bet is genuine TRE's. They're sealed and not greasable. Grease zirks would be ideal if you're using the truck off-road but I have yet to find an aftermarket TRE that last's half as long as a genuine TRE does. The Lemforder TRE's are the worst of the worst.
 

cupgt

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2011
573
1
Upstate SC
Im giving the Raybestos Pro Grades a shot this time around. They are greasable and not too expensive. Hopefully the don't suck balls. I personally like the ball joint pullers or whatever they are called. Looks like a big horseshoe with a threaded rod, just tighten against the end of the TRE and it pops right out.
 

scottsdalerrc

Well-known member
May 21, 2009
1,024
1
central pa
i'd originally ordered serviceable moog's but my order was never placed and being a special order item nearly everywhere had nothing in stock. so we ditched the plan to do it this past weekend and went camping instead. i'll be completing the upgrade in the coming weeks though, as time permits.
 

scottsdalerrc

Well-known member
May 21, 2009
1,024
1
central pa
2 months later, as i enjoy some downtime between jobs, the drag link is done. both TRE's came out after only a few solid whacks to the knuckle.
my damper relocation bracket seems to be the wrong one, however, and has cut the rest of my upgrade short. :(

going to post a pic to see if anyone has any idea what 'brand' i'm working with and what holes this bracket uses...