Strange Noise @ 20+ mph

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discostu

Guest
I have a strange noise that just started yesterday. I just lifted my Disco II yesterday so I am not sure what this new noise is from. I used OMEmu HD springs and I am still running OEM (US) tires. The noise only occurs when my vehicle is moving at 20+ mph. It is a whining/humming sound (not brake squeal). I know that the noise dissapears when I slow down and reappears when I hit about 15-20+ mph. It seems as though I am having a fair amount of steering movement when driving. IE: When driving down the road I seem to have to adjust the steering wheel more to keep the disco straight. I tried to wiggle the front shaft and there was no play whatsoever. Does anyone have any ideas?

I assumed the wheel bearings are suspects and I searched the boards. I found one article with some similar symptoms yet other symptoms did not match. The noise is not constant like the descriptions in most other threads regarding bearings. Hence the post.
 
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rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,651
246
What's your mileage?
I would still check out the front driveshaft. You really need to take it loose to check it.
Check the flex disk in the rear also. More then likely if the u-joints haven't been changed, it's time.
As far as steering, is it play you are noticing or wander? You can adjust the play out on the steering box. There is a socket cap screw on top to adjust looseness in the steering.
 
D

discostu

Guest
73,000 miles

I bought it used from a soccer-mom so I am unsure how old the joints are. I already have a replacement joint for the only front greasable joint sitting in my glovebox.

The steeering issues deal more with wandering. I had some steering issues prior to the lift's installation. The vehicle seems to wander a bit (as if I had bias ply tires running on a half decent road). I do not seem to have bumpsteer. However, I notice the wheel still pulls sometimes when on roads that are paved. I plan on replacing the steering damper after I have eliminated other items as sources of steering issues. Dampers usually just mask an underlying problem.
 

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,651
246
The u-joints on the double cardon are the same as the other u-joint. I would re-build the drive shaft. 73k is a lot of mileage for u-joints that get dripped on from the ac and aren't greasable. Have the centering bearing replaced too. Precision 617 is the number for it.
 

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,651
246
nismopowered said:
Centering bearing? Whats this?

It's a spherical needle bearing that is on the drive shaft itself. The yoke has a pin that keeps the double cardon centered and limits movement.
I would recommend replacing this also, I rebuilt mine with out replacing it and went in again to fix it anyway.
 
D

discostu

Guest
Walter

I have purchased the Precision 617 part and I am having one hell of a time getting the original one out.


I have pulled the seal and have been trying to pry the damn thing out with a long screwdriver while holding the piece to a table. I am having no luck and am worried about scarring the present piece up.

I need to have this piece in ASAP.


What did you do to get the original one out??
 
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95.D1.Rick

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
402
0
Cumberland Co., ME
Dont know stu but from experience- my .02 is that it is definitely something you touched yesterday. Usually its whatever you worked on last, not to knock you, I am speaking from my mech experience. Retrace your steps and odds are something you worked on isnt right. It wasnt making the noise until you did what you did. Good luck & let us know. My 2" OME lift did not do what you described, but I certainlly avoided a missile, -Rick
 

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,651
246
discostu said:
I have purchased the Precision 617 part and I am having one hell of a time getting the original one out.


I have pulled the seal and have been trying to pry the damn thing out with a long screwdriver while holding the piece to a table. I am having no luck and am worried about scarring the present piece up.

I need to have this piece in ASAP.


What did you do to get the original one out??

Several things to try.
I got mine out by threading a coathanger wire through the hole in the back of the bearing. Turn the bearing so you can get the wire to come out the other side and use a slide hammer with a vice grip attachment to pop the bearing out.

Or you can carefully try splitting the bearing with a small chisel.
It's not an easy thing to get out and I have access to a decent shop.

You could also take it to a driveline shop and have them pop it out if all else fails.
Good luck.
 
D

discostu

Guest
Walter,

Thanx for the info...and I will bring a fork.

Also, I know that contaminants are bad for a bearing: so, why is there a tiny hole in the seam of the yoke the bearing is pressed into. The hole is located in the seam where the welds are. Is there supposed to be a hole there? I could think of no reason and I feel this would have caused this part to prematurely fail since it would allow contanimants in.
 

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,651
246
The hole is for expansion of the grease. It's possible that contaminents entered there but it is a small hole and full of grease.
When you assemble it make sure you fill it with grease also. Don't forget to get the rubber boot on good.
 
D

discostu

Guest
My 617 kit did not come with a replacement boot...should it have?