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D Chapman
Guest
Everything is wired and bumping. Total night and day difference.
No issues with rattling inside the truck. But, the license plate does rattle a bit. It will need some Dynomat. It may not hurt to put a little Dynomat inside the tailgate, too.
No issues with rattling inside the truck. But, the license plate does rattle a bit. It will need some Dynomat. It may not hurt to put a little Dynomat inside the tailgate, too.
Dynamat or an alternative should make a big difference if you line the entire tailgate. Building a fiberglass enclosure within the tailgate (while being the most labor intensive idea) would probably yield the biggest gain in SQ.
-JP
-JP
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D Chapman
Guest
Yeah, if we were young and dumb, sealing the trail-gate would provide the deep, hard hitting, bass. But, those days are over. Tami is only after a clean, sweet sounding, system. Deep, hard hitting, bass is really not that much of a concern, so the freeair set-up is fine. I mean, it's not a text book freeair set-up, but it's not sealed, either.
With a grinder and some time, it would be easy to cut an area out of the tail gate so that a nice custom sealed box could be fitted. Could probably easily fit a 12" sub. Then again, if you wanted all that crap, you could ditch the tool tray and fit two 12" subs.....
With a grinder and some time, it would be easy to cut an area out of the tail gate so that a nice custom sealed box could be fitted. Could probably easily fit a 12" sub. Then again, if you wanted all that crap, you could ditch the tool tray and fit two 12" subs.....
Dan, do you mind if I link to these two audip upgrade threads on my website? I get a stupid number of hits on that site, and you've done a great job here that will help a lot of people.
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D Chapman
Guest
D Chapman said:
I have two 12" subs in my XJR and 600watts of power and surprise my plate rattled too. Easy fix was using some black, medium density rubber seal from HD or Lowes. I just bought it in a short roll and it's about 3/4" wide and self sticking. Since it's made for outside use, it has lasted for several years and still no rattle. I think it cost me about $5 and was in the garage door seal area. I just ran it on the back of the plate around the outer edge and did a cross in the middle. It's only 1/4" thick too BTW so it doesn't show at all.
D Chapman said:
LOL, sadly no. Well, I have this one, but I'm not sure you can see much of my wife in it
http://nwoods.smugmug.com/photos/191484908_SPQej-L.jpg
My wife is the one holding up the rabbit ears behind my head. I think you know the beauty to my right.
HelloD Chapman said:
I know it's been a while since you did this, but I am curious if the 2 subwoofer cables (wires) from the stock amp are common. I could dig around, but hopefully you already know and can share. I have a single input (high-level) processor that I want to use, and I thought I could twist both +s and together both - together. Obviously I don't want to short the amp, but when I metered them they SEEMED to be common. I just don't know what the impedance should be if they are isolated.
Thanks for any info. ...and thanks for the great post!
Moke Morgan
(mokemorgan)
I'm not sure if I understand what you're asking.
It's been a while since I've been into the truck like this, but if I remember right the stock sub had two voice coils. Don't quote me on that, though.
If you measured the impedance on the wires, what did you get? 4ohms or 2? I would guess 4ohms...???
If you're looking to retain the stock amp but to add an aftermarket sub, you would want to use the + from one lead and the - of the other lead to make your connections. This would drop your load to 2ohms and give you more power to the sub. This is also referred to as "mono". Of course you could just hook up one set of leads and you'll be fine, but you'll be at half the power wattage, whatever that may be...
In my case, I cut both ends of the wires and made one, single, wire out of the two.
It's been a while since I've been into the truck like this, but if I remember right the stock sub had two voice coils. Don't quote me on that, though.
If you measured the impedance on the wires, what did you get? 4ohms or 2? I would guess 4ohms...???
If you're looking to retain the stock amp but to add an aftermarket sub, you would want to use the + from one lead and the - of the other lead to make your connections. This would drop your load to 2ohms and give you more power to the sub. This is also referred to as "mono". Of course you could just hook up one set of leads and you'll be fine, but you'll be at half the power wattage, whatever that may be...
In my case, I cut both ends of the wires and made one, single, wire out of the two.
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Thanks for the reply... What I was asking is: are the two sets of wires common? I mean do they both join at the other end? OR, are they the same from the amp? I only have 1 input into the device (yeah, I could buy a second unit @ $139.00 US, but would rather spend my money on CDs. ;-)
I am using a MTX Re-Q as a processor and a 600 watt Alpine amp to run 4 10" subs in an enclosure I built. This processor takes high level (after stock amp) and converts it to a low level (RCA) input to the mono Alpine Sub-Amp. The specialty part of the Re-Q is that it defeats the "Bass Contour" that the head unit puts out. [that is to say, the higher the volume, the less bass is produced, and this device undoes that effect, so you get as much bass at any level)
I don't really like "bump", but I do appreciate rock, blues and jazz, and want to hear it as it was recorded.
Cheers!
I am using a MTX Re-Q as a processor and a 600 watt Alpine amp to run 4 10" subs in an enclosure I built. This processor takes high level (after stock amp) and converts it to a low level (RCA) input to the mono Alpine Sub-Amp. The specialty part of the Re-Q is that it defeats the "Bass Contour" that the head unit puts out. [that is to say, the higher the volume, the less bass is produced, and this device undoes that effect, so you get as much bass at any level)
I don't really like "bump", but I do appreciate rock, blues and jazz, and want to hear it as it was recorded.
Cheers!
That's what I'm not real sure about. It did not matter in the case of the install I did, so I did not test this. If I had to guess, though, I would say no they are not common. But I don't know for sure.
I did what you suggested and used a pos from one side and the neg of the other... That way, it's just an impedance issue which can be adjusted with the processor, and I'm not burning out the HK sub-amp. It sounds great, so I am happy with that.
Thank you for the feedback and input. Next for me is to do (sort of) the same for my wife's BMW Z-4. There is much more trunk room than you might guess.
Take care. Oh, I'll post photos of the finished product in the next day or so.
Thank you for the feedback and input. Next for me is to do (sort of) the same for my wife's BMW Z-4. There is much more trunk room than you might guess.
Take care. Oh, I'll post photos of the finished product in the next day or so.
PS when I said I metered the leads... I had metered between the two pos leads to see if they were common, but since I used an old analog radio shack ohm meter with low (at least questionable) battery I wasn't sure if it was reading correctly. It appeared as though they were common (full continuity) but I never really trust it... I need to buy a nice digital meter.
Dan, a friend in Ohio just did this in his truck. He's not a member of the board, but sends his thanks.
Do you have any final pics of the install or did you put the capret back in front of it. I just got a memphis audio 10" and it in a small box behind my 3rd row, but this gives me hope... Do those amps sit under your 3rd row seats? I have a small memphis amp running the 10 as well.
Hey there, sorry to trouble you. Had a quick question about your subwoofer install. Realize it's been a while but hope you might be able to help so I don't order the wrong stuff. I'm hoping to simply replace the sub and keep the factory amp, at least for now till I get bored and decide I want more. Lol. I'm fairly happy with the factory sub but only when bass and woofer is turned all the way up. Even find myself turning down the treble to help it out. Anyways I'm looking to buy a Rockford Fosgate shallow sub and swap it in as you did but just with factory wiring. First question is it is slightly deeper 3-7/16" than the pioneer 3-1/8" you put in. Just wondering if there was any wiggle room left when you mounted yours? All I'd need is a half an inch or so. Next question is this is 4ohm dual voice coil sub so I was planning on wiring the two separate factory wires to each individual coil as opposed to combining the wires into one as you did. Does this sound reasonable? I've wired a few car stereos in my younger days but nothing complicated. I'm hoping 4ohms will be okay as far as impedance. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.