The **Official** LR3 Buyers Guide

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
Get a fucking pre-purchase inspection from a Land Rover dealer or Land Rover specialist. If you are buying from a Land Rover dealer and don't trust them, have an independent Land Rover specialist to look at it.

Don't be like this guy, who later turns into this guy.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,713
1,016
Northern Illinois
Get a fucking pre-purchase inspection from a Land Rover dealer or Land Rover specialist. If you are buying from a Land Rover dealer and don't trust them, have an independent Land Rover specialist to look at it.

Don't be like this guy, who later turns into this guy.

Ya he could get codes out of 3 modules Trans / ABS / Engine. Not one damn brake switch code in any of them. But thinks he fixed it with the brake light switch. ( it just dried out/ will fuck up again) Then Jymmie and I both tell him trans fluid and filter wont fix a slipping trans but low fluid level might. Doesn't check the fluid level goes out and buys a trans pan and fluid and thinks he's going to get that pan off on his back in his driveway. I would pay money to watch somebody who knows how to do that job try that. That's like a bet you make when your too drunk to think right.
 

stu454

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2004
5,407
61
Atlanta, GA
Email ramblings from a tech that I trust:

Coolant, any car that old can be in need of new hoses. The coolant manifold on that engine is plastic/poli and last
about 4 years, but are cheap and easy to replace.

Radiators last around 6 years and they are a little pricey but easy to replace. What I would watch for is the heater core! Make sure you get heat blowing Hot on both sides (left and right) and make sure the carpet is dry with no signs of
coolant in the floor boards.

On the suspension, the front a-arms are what wear out. The rear never seam to go. The air spring more often than not out last the strut/shock. I see a lot of LR3's and Sport's that drive like boats because the shocks/struts are gown. Make sure it corners stiff.

The only other thing to watch for are the differentials. The pinion bearings go out. You should get no road noise with new tires, so if you can hear a low growl at parking lot speed that gets louder as speed increase it may have a diff problem. Sounds the same for wheel bearings.

I have seen the engines and transmissions get 250k+ miles with no problems as long as you don't over heat them or run them low on oil. Really damn good truck.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,713
1,016
Northern Illinois
Email ramblings from a tech that I trust:

I don't ever remember having to replace a Radiator on a LR3. I've done a ton of supercharger radiators on Sports. The T stats are a problem and agree that the coolant outlet manifolds leak but I don't think enough that I would say they only last 3 years. I guess that could be a little different down in Ga, but up north they don't have catastrophic failure rates like every 3 years. But if you get one hot its going to split.
On the 5.0 engine I have gotten to the point I pull the coolant outlet in the front of the engine and look for melted plastic housing near the O rings that push down into the block. If the housing is melted near the O ring seals it was hot enough to boil over. I know this because of one persistant overheat I had and I replaced that outlet, then overheated it myself. It was hot fast and I could hear it boiling in the heater core, shut it down right away but that new outlet was already melted near those seals.

So once a 5.0 has been that hot it's pretty much done. What I have found on most of the overheated ones is headbolts that pull out of the block. You can fix the ones that pulled out and it will be back with others pulled out. Like the other bank. I wonder if you fixed all the holes if one would live, not sure. By fixing I am talking about hela coiling them all.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,713
1,016
Northern Illinois
Look . Do this before you do anything with this toilet. Get it on flat level surface/jack it up so you can get at the bottom of the transmission. Remove 4 8mm head bolts holding the heat shield to the bottom of the trans. Get that shield out of your way and look for a hex head fill plug on the right side of the trans behind the shift cable and mechanism. Start the car and pull that plug out of the side of the transmission case. Pump trans fluid into that hole with the engine running till trans fluid is running out the hole and put the plug back in. It's worth a shot so you don't totally loose your ass here. Or get some mechanic to do it for you. But follow those instructions to the T.. Engine running/ fill till fluid runs out that hole.
 

drew_lewis

Well-known member
Dec 7, 2015
105
0
N/A
The transmission was removed and disassembled by the transmission shop. Its in a million pieces....they had verified that the fluid was in fact about 3 quarts low....but they also said that it needed to be torn down to determine exactly what needed to be replaced. That's how they gave me the quote that they did.

Look . Do this before you do anything with this toilet. Get it on flat level surface/jack it up so you can get at the bottom of the transmission. Remove 4 8mm head bolts holding the heat shield to the bottom of the trans. Get that shield out of your way and look for a hex head fill plug on the right side of the trans behind the shift cable and mechanism. Start the car and pull that plug out of the side of the transmission case. Pump trans fluid into that hole with the engine running till trans fluid is running out the hole and put the plug back in. It's worth a shot so you don't totally loose your ass here. Or get some mechanic to do it for you. But follow those instructions to the T.. Engine running/ fill till fluid runs out that hole.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,713
1,016
Northern Illinois
If you don't have any way to pump fluid in it... Go to Wendy's late at night and steal one of those ketchup pumper deals. Then put the fluid in an empty washer solvent jug and pump it in with that
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,713
1,016
Northern Illinois
Get a used trans and have them stuff it in there. I'm sure they would rather do that than loose the whole job. Your not going to get but 500 bucks for it like that. If granny will lend you a little I highly recommend you do that. Somebody had a trans for sale here recently. You have to spend something so you don't loose everything
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,713
1,016
Northern Illinois
No .... The valve body will need to be swapped to the replacement unit as the vin is burnt into the old one. They feel like the valve body is bad AND the trans is burnt up. It's a game called cover your ass.
 

drew_lewis

Well-known member
Dec 7, 2015
105
0
N/A
smh...I guess I'll just sit on it then...take the money I have for the transmission and go find something else.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,713
1,016
Northern Illinois
Look into parting the thing out. You could probably make most of your money back one piece at a time. That engines worth a lot. I would think at least 4500 to someone who needs it. Diffs,axles,radio head unit, amp, seats trim panels, body panels.

That's another option