The tinworm cometh

ankeneering

Active member
Apr 21, 2017
41
3
wyoming
That whole dead-battery-idle-surge thing is something they all seem to do. Not always… but I’ve had that issue enough times that it’s a little routine and it doesn’t spook me anymore as I know it will settle down after a bit. It’s definitely easier to deal with on a 5-speed though.
 

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,486
375
When I remove it I will send some photos of it and how it is mounted. You can decide if and what you want of it.. The plastic trim piece is still available new. I know because I recently purchased one as I didn’t want one with holes or that has been trimmed for the bull bar.
It is super simple to install and remove. Two screws on the back side of the bumper and the whole assembly comes off. The only difference in the plastic trim piece is the two holes drilled where the plate mount slides in place. If you want it, let me know.
 

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Spark6

Well-known member
Oct 31, 2020
127
40
New Hampshire
It is super simple to install and remove. Two screws on the back side of the bumper and the whole assembly comes off. The only difference in the plastic trim piece is the two holes drilled where the plate mount slides in place. If you want it, let me know.
Terry, thank you!! That is very kind and the best attribute of this community! I actually just completed a mount for the rig, so I think we’re set, but I really appreciate it.

For anyone interested, Winston has clearly been stripped of his plastic plynth at some point, which meant nothing convenient to mount the plate to, or to drive screws into. The solution appeared during an unrelated trip to our local hardware store. (Winter is coming. A man needs a snowblower.) In the fastener aisle I found expandable rubber nuts - 1/4” diameter did the trick. They were threaded for an 8-32 machine screw:
A006F1EC-2774-445D-ABFE-632774B3417F.jpegTwo of those went into holes already drilled into the stock bumper:
6A48EE73-B6B4-43E7-8F8E-727C1F346432.jpeg
Don’t worry, the rust got wire-brushed, converted, and painted! It’s an obsession at this point…

The hardware store also carried a very rudimentary plastic plate mount for a whopping $3.47. Add in the nuts, some bolts, and four washers, and I think the whole thing came to $10.
54E274EE-E7F4-4883-9C43-2D746EA4F994.jpeg
The offset plate mount is definitely a taste thing, but it’s now common across all three of our cars, so I guess I’m matching the theme? The biggest thing is it’ll be secured properly and legally, so that if I ever have a strong enough tailwind to exceed a speed limit, the local bears won’t be able to hold that against me!

26D9694B-6166-492F-AE59-14D60AD151F9.jpeg
 
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Spark6

Well-known member
Oct 31, 2020
127
40
New Hampshire
Out of curiosity what product are you using for rust conversion?
I’m using Rust-oleum’s “Rust Reformer.” I’ve been pleased with it’s results. While not likely the professional-grade of say, an Eastwood product, which I’ve used and liked on other vehicles over the years, it has the distinct benefit of being in stock at my local hardware store.
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
I’m using Rust-oleum’s “Rust Reformer.” I’ve been pleased with it’s results. While not likely the professional-grade of say, an Eastwood product, which I’ve used and liked on other vehicles over the years, it has the distinct benefit of being in stock at my local hardware store.
Thanks. And yes a local supplier for anything is a plus. Although Amazon Prime overnight lessens the advantage.
 

Spark6

Well-known member
Oct 31, 2020
127
40
New Hampshire
Thanks. And yes a local supplier for anything is a plus. Although Amazon Prime overnight lessens the advantage.
Ha! So true! Except I really like the guys at the local hardware store. They know me by name now. All Jeffery Bezos knows is that he needs fuel for his rocket dildo…
 
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Spark6

Well-known member
Oct 31, 2020
127
40
New Hampshire
Well… Winston failed inspection in rather spectacular fashion. Remember the movie, “Catch Me If You Can”? In the words of Frank Abagnale, Jr, “the reason the Yankees always win is because everyone is always looking at the pinstripes.” Well, in the heat of chasing down the tin worm, I got lost in the pinstripes and missed some stuff.

The rap sheet, as it stands now:
- Play in front wheel bearings
- Corroded front and rear brake lines
- Leaking steering box (I knew about this one, but apparently, the state of NH won’t permit leaking steering gear for safety reasons… not sure how ANY Land Rover gets on the road in this state…)
- Corroded fuel tank cradle

The inspector also found another blown out body mount, (this one looks to be mainly a split rubber bushing under the passenger front wheel well), found two more rust holes (though only in the floor, not the frame.)

Oh, and then he noted that on top of all that, the passenger headlight is not aligned vertically. 💀

So now we confront the decision… to dig in and start the overhaul, in a dirt driveway with winter coming on, in hopes of keeping it going… or pack it in and take the L.

Disheartening and a bit embarrassing to say the least! We shall see.
 

rover rob

Well-known member
Mar 29, 2016
273
56
upstate NY
- Leaking steering box (I knew about this one, but apparently, the state of NH won’t permit leaking steering gear for safety reasons… not sure how ANY Land Rover gets on the road in this state…)
i used lucas power steering stop leak after someone on here mentioned it. that stuff is amazing . 1 bottle stopped my massive seal leak after a day of driving.
 
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Spark6

Well-known member
Oct 31, 2020
127
40
New Hampshire
i used lucas power steering stop leak after someone on here mentioned it. that stuff is amazing . 1 bottle stopped my massive seal leak after a day of driving.
This is a huge help! Awesome. I wasn’t sure where I was going to find a new power steering pump in the budget. Thank you!
 

Frobisher

Well-known member
Dec 27, 2012
200
68
Pennsylvania
The cradle isn't too bad either, especially compared with what you already did. Contact Will Tillery. He hooked me up quick and easy. Consider replacing the filler hose while you're at it. It's going to go bad eventually - if it hasn't already...

Sorry about the need for the deferred maintenance. Peck away at it, though, and it will be worth it.
 
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Spark6

Well-known member
Oct 31, 2020
127
40
New Hampshire
The cradle isn't too bad either, especially compared with what you already did. Contact Will Tillery. He hooked me up quick and easy. Consider replacing the filler hose while you're at it. It's going to go bad eventually - if it hasn't already...

Sorry about the need for the deferred maintenance. Peck away at it, though, and it will be worth it.
Good thoughts, Greg! I will definitely have a hard look at the fuel filler hose. Everything up there is kinda dry looking. Probably due for a refresh.
 

Spark6

Well-known member
Oct 31, 2020
127
40
New Hampshire
Do you need Will’s contact info? He is for sure a great Rover part source.

And sorry NH is being so difficult. Hang in there. It is a classic landie worth keeping especially with your skills.
I have Will’s info - he already bailed us out with an ECU when we were fighting THAT set of gremlins! The man is a Land Rover saint, so far as I’m concerned. I’m just pulling together a hit list of parts and figuring out a plan to tackle body mounts. There’s part of me that wants to pull the body off altogether and go whole-hog on the chassis. But building a gantry in my front yard and hanging the body from it for several weeks might be a bridge too far, even for my very understanding wife! Ha!
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
I have Will’s info - he already bailed us out with an ECU when we were fighting THAT set of gremlins! The man is a Land Rover saint, so far as I’m concerned. I’m just pulling together a hit list of parts and figuring out a plan to tackle body mounts. There’s part of me that wants to pull the body off altogether and go whole-hog on the chassis. But building a gantry in my front yard and hanging the body from it for several weeks might be a bridge too far, even for my very understanding wife! Ha!
Is the inspection performed by the State or shops like in PA?
If like PA maybe find a “kinder” shop that will pass it for you.
Or what are the antique vehicle registration requirements? Without going to beginning of the thread thought the D1 is a ‘96. In PA that qualifies as an antique in 2022. This eliminates State inspections in PA. My ‘94 Rangie is registered as antique and come Jan ‘22 so will the D1.
Good luck!
 

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,486
375
Well… Winston failed inspection in rather spectacular fashion. Remember the movie, “Catch Me If You Can”? In the words of Frank Abagnale, Jr, “the reason the Yankees always win is because everyone is always looking at the pinstripes.” Well, in the heat of chasing down the tin worm, I got lost in the pinstripes and missed some stuff.

The rap sheet, as it stands now:
- Play in front wheel bearings
- Corroded front and rear brake lines
- Leaking steering box (I knew about this one, but apparently, the state of NH won’t permit leaking steering gear for safety reasons… not sure how ANY Land Rover gets on the road in this state…)
- Corroded fuel tank cradle

The inspector also found another blown out body mount, (this one looks to be mainly a split rubber bushing under the passenger front wheel well), found two more rust holes (though only in the floor, not the frame.)

Oh, and then he noted that on top of all that, the passenger headlight is not aligned vertically. 💀

So now we confront the decision… to dig in and start the overhaul, in a dirt driveway with winter coming on, in hopes of keeping it going… or pack it in and take the L.

Disheartening and a bit embarrassing to say the least! We shall see.
Wow are they sticklers there! On the PS leak, I have found in my experiences the hose from the reservoir that uses screw clamps can be a real leaker. It is cheap and easy to replace, I’d consider changing all the hoses as it is neither an expensive or difficult job. I thought I had a gearbox leak. I changed all the hoses and now it is bone dry.

I hope you keep it and chip away at the issues. You definitely have the KSA to do it.
 
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Spark6

Well-known member
Oct 31, 2020
127
40
New Hampshire
Is the inspection performed by the State or shops like in PA?
If like PA maybe find a “kinder” shop that will pass it for you.
Or what are the antique vehicle registration requirements? Without going to beginning of the thread thought the D1 is a ‘96. In PA that qualifies as an antique in 2022. This eliminates State inspections in PA. My ‘94 Rangie is registered as antique and come Jan ‘22 so will the D1.
Good luck!
Good thoughts, and they mirror mine. In NH, the state inspection is performed by private shops. Unfortunately, this one was the most “lenient” I’ve found. And it’s a shame, because the shop’s office manager really seemed laid back! 7FC75682-80A9-4BB2-B4A0-235E188E9982.jpeg Apparently, though, the state has been cracking down on several shops for looking the other way on inspections, so shop owners are skittish at the present. Antique registration is still a few years out for us, but even then, still requires inspection. Turns out, “Live Free, Or Die” doesn’t extend to what you drive! Ha.

There is rumored to be an Rover indie shop about 45 min away that “gets it.” They’re my next stop, and also where I think I’ll go to have some of the work done that requires a lift and tools that I don’t have.

Ultimately, if he’s gonna last, Winston is gonna have to have a frame-off restoration. These Discos are too cool to lose, and there’s unlikely to be something like them made anytime soon so far as I can see. After a long talk with the wife, we’re gonna make that our long term goal, but it’ll have to be a few years out. So in the meantime, we’re gonna tackle the rap list, and try to get the rig sorted and preserved. First things first will be brake lines, I think, followed by rust repair and a liberal application of waxoyl. Then we’ll address the steering box, and the bearings. I’m hoping the Rover shop will help with the bearings, not because I can’t do it, but because putting the truck on jack stands in a gravel driveway makes my stomach turn.

I’m still figuring out how the heck to replace the body mount. It’s a tricky spot, right at the back of the front passenger wheel well. I’m not yet sure even where the top of the bolt is, and the more I look at it, the more I suspect there’s a fair bit of cancer on the body side of the mounting area to boot, with little to no room to cut and weld while the body is on the frame. We shall see.

There was a brief period where I was pretty discouraged about the whole thing. Heck, I even started pricing out an L322!!! :eek::ROFLMAO: I’ve mostly recovered though, and Winston (and I) will soldier on.

In a somewhat ironic turn of events, the same day that we failed inspection, we also took delivery of the rooftop tent that will eventually adorn our truck. I need to drop the headliner and remove the stock half-rack roof rack to make space for a set of full width crossbars to mount it to. With winter coming on though, and the truck down for a bit, that project is going on the back burner. Still, the box looks cool on the roof!
8FCDC523-0A05-4C1D-9F71-D7ABE553EADA.jpeg

To be continued…
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
Totally agree keeping the Disco. They are a great all around Rover.
What is the name of the shop you are considering?
Have you heard of Taylor Congelton’s shop in Burlington?? I’ve had work done by him on my RRC and D1. Would highly recommend him.
 

Spark6

Well-known member
Oct 31, 2020
127
40
New Hampshire
Shop is called, “Hillside Garage,” in Washington, NH. There’s a gent on our street with a Series II and he made the recommendation. I’ve not reached out to them yet. I’m not familiar with the shop in Burlington, but I’ll keep it in mind!

Some research into what I’ve learned is called the “bulkhead mount” indicates that top of the mount bolt is on the firewall, just on the inside of the wheel arch. I suspect it’s underneath the windshield washer tank, which tracks, as ours very clearly had a bad leak there at some point, which drove the formation of a good deal of rust, (including the hole that ultimately lead to the complete destruction of our ECU, for those that followed THAT adventure.) Most of the accounts of repairs I’ve found have been out of the UK, and are some 10 years old, with few photos. I’ll try to document our repair as best I can when we get there… it may involve a fair bit of surgery.

In the meantime, first on the punch list are the brake lines. I’m planning to use the AB nickel/copper kit, unless anyone has a horror story that should talk me out of it!
 
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