The under $10k thread -- LR3 vs LR4?

KorytheLorry

Well-known member
Feb 1, 2020
51
12
Maryland
I'm seriously considering getting one of these. It seems like $10k can buy you a circa '07 LR3 with 150k, or a circa '11 LR4 with similar miles. For reliability, drive, trailering, etc., what's the better buy? This would be my daily.
 

Howski

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Oct 19, 2009
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Alabama
I wouldn’t get a 5.0 LR4 unless it had serious service history or has had the timing chains replaced. Outside of that, the LR4 is more refined and feel like they tend of have less little quirks, such as the brake light switch, nagging air suspension issues, etc. Of course there is the recall for the fuel tank gasket on the 4. In your price range you’ll probably be able to find a LR3 in better condition than a LR4
 
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ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
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Darien Gap
Owned both. LR4 has better quality interior and noticeably more power, but I prefer the more utilitarian design and ease of fitting 18" wheels of the LR3. If you want 18s on the LR4, it'll cost you. LR3 has the edge on reliability, LR4 on drive (barely) and towing (more power and slightly better brakes).

In conclusion, get an F150.
 
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MM3846

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Feb 18, 2014
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The LR4 is a better daily, but;

the LR3 will probably have more frequent small issues, but you won't have to worry about a major failure
the LR4 has the potential for BIG issues (chains, coolant loss and overheat through hose or water pump failure and subsequent death of the motor)

this is of course provided they have been service adequately. if either is a 3,4,5 owner car with no serve records they'll both be wallet shredders. I found the power of the 5.0 to be a bigger draw than I expected so thats what I ended up with.
 

Howski

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Oct 19, 2009
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Alabama
I’ve heard of catastrophic overheating issues more frequently on the LR4 with the crossover pipe. The typical leaky t-stat housing on the 4.4 isn’t often a total failure
 

Blue

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Mar 26, 2004
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AZ
If you get a used LR4 with the V8, just assume you’ll be doing the coolant repair preemptively. Budget the money for it as part of the purchase price. You’d be a fool not to.
 
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p m

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I’ve heard of catastrophic overheating issues more frequently on the LR4 with the crossover pipe.
If you're paying attention to your vehicle, there's a chance to avoid it.
But... beyond 100kmi, if the crossover pipe hasn't been replaced, it has to be factored into the purchase price, just as Blue said.
I am still unclear on the timing chain/tensioner issue.
 

KorytheLorry

Well-known member
Feb 1, 2020
51
12
Maryland
Thanks for the input fellas. Just looked at a picture of the 5.0 coolant crossover pipe. I don’t know wtf they were thinking in deploying that on a production vehicle. Are the control arm and air sus problems I read about largely limited to the LR3? I’m trying to figure out what jobs i’d rather have done by PO instead of factoring into purchase price. Seems like a lot of LR3s have had suspension work done, while I don’t really see it in LR4 ads.
 

ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
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Darien Gap
Thanks for the input fellas. Just looked at a picture of the 5.0 coolant crossover pipe. I don’t know wtf they were thinking in deploying that on a production vehicle. Are the control arm and air sus problems I read about largely limited to the LR3?

Those are wear items on the LR4 as well. Very little difference.

They're great vehicles when they're maintained, but getting and/or keeping them there can be expensive.
 

Blue

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Mar 26, 2004
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AZ
I bought my 2013 LR4 in San Diego with 69K miles. I'm not sure where this truck was originally located but it lived in Las Vegas and Arizona since at least 2018 and then made its way out to California based on old paperwork left in the owner's manual. My local independent Land Rover mechanic had told me to assume that the coolant pipes (crossover pipes) would need to be done by 100K in "normal" climates or about 75K in Arizona. Sure enough, at 77K miles there was the familiar smell of coolant. Land Rover and leaking coolant smell go together like peas & carrots.

Here are the repairs/maintenance items I've experienced so far:

edited to add a couple missed items

74,839 miles = 75k service - lube, oil, filter change, replace engine and pollen filters, transfer case service, locking rear diff service

77,914 miles = Replace front manifold, water pump, rear manifold, new gaskets on intake, updated outlet pipes, add coolant (the "crossover pipes" service)

81,879 miles = Check Engine Light: O2 sensor left front wiring harness dropped onto catalytic converter and melted, access harness and replace connection pigtale and O2 sensor. This one is not really a failure per se - my mechanic said that it looks like the engine may have been out of this truck already because there are a few odd things going on, such as this wiring harness dropped on the cat - it wasn't clipped up & out of the way the way it should have been from the factory. My truck was also missing the OEM engine sump guard and a bunch of fasteners associated with the undercarriage guards, plastic covers, bumper parts, etc.

83,097 miles = Check Engine Light: small evap leak & fuel smell - recall service done on fuel tank flange. I have since received the official Land Rover fuel tank flange recall paperwork and I have to get it into the dealer for the recall work. I'll then be reimbursed for having my mechanic perform this service.

83,196 miles = Replace ruptured power steering return hose. Again, the hose wasn't secured properly the way it should have left the factory and the hose rubbed through on something.

84,529 miles = oil & filter change and diagnose driveline clunk - found 1 broken motor mount, replace both mounts

90,687 miles = oil & filter change + 90K service = replace pollen filter, brake fluid flush

I'm at about 95K miles now and I'll be taking it in soon for another oil change before the 100K service. At least I think there is a 100K service interval.
 
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KorytheLorry

Well-known member
Feb 1, 2020
51
12
Maryland
I agreed to buy an LR3 locally today. 2007 HSE with 145k. It has all service records from new, and basically every maintenance&repair item I’ve read about on here has been done in the past 20k: control arms all around, suspension compressor, front air springs, ball joints, thermostat housing, cats, etc. Runs and drives great with nothing out of the ordinary. So hopefully it’ll be a good truck. It’s priced near the high end of market, but I think it’s worth it with the pile of receipts it comes with (either that or I’m buying a POS where everything goes wrong!). Soon-to-be PO bought an Evoque. The LR3 has never been off the pavement. Bringing it home this weekend.
 
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discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
LR3 does that too. It even demonstrated it for me.
LR3 doesn't have close to the coolant problems a 5.0 has. I've only seen a few water pumps leak on the 4.4. Thermostats will loose the seal or split . Splitting is the worst, but it's usually overheated pretty bad to make that thing split.
 
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Blue

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Mar 26, 2004
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AZ
I have a chronic ENGINE COOLANT LOW idiot light and message on my 2013 LR4. Used to be intermittent now constant. Used to go away on its own or right after I added a little swig of water, now constant. The expansion tank is topped up. Never actually been low despite the idiot light. Too full now actually. Need to take to mechanic, could it be the sensor? After my D2 and two engines, I am not a fan of Land Rovers’ coolant issues.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,724
1,021
Northern Illinois
I have a chronic ENGINE COOLANT LOW idiot light and message on my 2013 LR4. Used to be intermittent now constant. Used to go away on its own or right after I added a little swig of water, now constant. The expansion tank is topped up. Never actually been low despite the idiot light. Too full now actually. Need to take to mechanic, could it be the sensor? After my D2 and two engines, I am not a fan of Land Rovers’ coolant issues.
It's a pretty simple circuit. But You probably need a coolant reservoir, Take a look at the 2 wires going to the sensor just to be sure. But the general rule is if the cooolant level is up and the lights on, it's probably because the float in the reservoir is sunk.
 
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KorytheLorry

Well-known member
Feb 1, 2020
51
12
Maryland
Screen Shot 2022-07-31 at 9.27.25 PM.png
My initial take: the LR3 is a hell of a machine. I'm a little surprised I like it as much as I do, given how quick I normally am to dismiss anything with independent suspension. I put a few hundred miles on it this week. It definitely has the character of a disco, but I love the extra power and massive load capacity. The ride is great, and the brakes are miles ahead of a D1's. No major surprises so far. It rained a few inches on Wednesday, which left the front passenger floorboard wet. I traced it to a plugged sunroof drain near the input. Unclogged that and no wetness from any of the rains since, and water flows freely out the elbow behind the vent. Funny it has the classic LR design flaw where the cabin air intake extends beyond the eave below the windshield, allowing water to flow right in if the cowl leaks. I pulled the cowl and flashed that with an old moto license plate, even though it wasn't the source of my (present) leak. Anyway, so far so good! Can't wait to rack up some miles and take it into the woods. Only complaint so far: the tire selection in 19" sucks!
 
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KorytheLorry

Well-known member
Feb 1, 2020
51
12
Maryland
My next test: can it drive up my chopping block and keep all 4 wheels on the ground? And better yet, with a diff that isn't 6" off the ground? That'll help tell me if my bias against its independent suspension is justified.IMG_6844.JPG