Transmission Fault >HDC system Fault > suspension lowering

[Dave Legacy]

The brake switch was updated at some point so switching it out wasn't a waste. There is a harness connector above the spare that is suceptable to corrosion and has been known to cause issues like this. The problem is that a lot of stuff can cause these symptoms.

 

[WNYDiscoIIErik]

There's power to all the other bulbs, not the backup light. No trailer wiring.

 

[sideview]

Check fuse F5 behind the glove box for the reverse light. Also, be sure the connector housing and switch ends to the brake switch are really clean of carbon build up, since that code came up for you. When my switch went bad the brake lights (and brakes obviously ) stilled worked when we checked but LR said they were periodically loosing contact or some such, which is when it'd start having hissy fits.

 

[WNYDiscoIIErik]

F5 is in tact. Im going to be going under the truck tomorrow and follow the wiring harness to a commonly faulty connector.

 

[lforgue8]

just read this thread and if the water ingress was great enough splice joints that are located in the p/s sill area could have been corroded causing all of the problems...also the cjb or interior fuse box could have gotten wet from the sunroof drain or the sealing of the windshield cowl on the pass side of the windshield........i would go searching for water trail marks and try looking for corroded connectors in the cjb area under the p/s dash

 

[lando_shriner]

Its been a LONG time since Ive visited this site. My 2006 LR3 has had the same issue for over a year, I just bump it to neutral, cycle the ignition switch, put it back into drive and keep going. It does become an issue at night, when I turn the ignition off(momentarily) the headlamps go off/on. Im sure stopping and restarting the engine traveling down the highways isnt a great choice, but it seems to work. Oh, and I have replaced the battery, but that didnt fix anything either.
I took it to LR Cary, NC. They said it was an ECM, but I strongly disagree! My LR3, when it sits for a few days without being driven will lower to the stops. It does promptly raise when I start it again. My disagreeance with LR Carys Diag., was that when the vehicle isnt on, the ECM cant just decide to lower the suspension(I am aware it does level automatically, but the techs ive talked to say it shouldnt lower to the stops). Im not a tech, but I have come to believe that I have an air suspension bag, line, or compressor leak. After 50-100 miles the compressor gets tired of doing its job, says the hell with it, throws a fault, and the LR3 3 Amigos appear. As for when it sits still and lowers, I believe the LR3 has a continuous loop air system, so a small bag leak on left rear side would eventually exhaust the entire system causing it to lower. I may be completely wrong about all my assumptions, if so, someone around here will be sure to quickly correct me. Im ok with that too!

Eric, I sympathize with your aggrevations. Maybe someone around here can guide us to a solution. I know I would buy a spring conversion, if they were avail.

-Landon

 

[WNYDiscoIIErik]

Well, I believe I have fixed it. Thanks to many people and their infinite wisdom and guidance, I was able to pinpoint my problem. Corroded wire in the passenger side floor. I took pictures and tried to post the before and after, but dweb says there is an error and wont let me. If you have similar problems, Ill email you the photos for reference purposes.


EDIT: Pictures added to this thread in 2016, post # 55

 

[lforgue8]

eric, what color where the wires just curious great that you found the wire.....i would make sure the sunroof drains are clear as thats usually the offender of the water leak down there

 

[WNYDiscoIIErik]

It was a series of red wires. One coming from the rear, splicing together with two that were running from the front. Looked like a factory job. It was bleeding green corrosion out of both ends of the shrink tube, and it looked to almost be burnt up inside.

Four days later in still running strong. (as strong as a Rover can run)

 

[D Chapman]

Post pics if you can. That's good info.

 

[lforgue8]

Post pics if you can. That's good info.

i just fixed 5 different spilces in that area on a sport but this had standing water in the sill!

i would check any other splices you can find in that silll......the key remote signal splice is in there on an LR3 and key remote function stops working if that splice goes bad

 

[WNYDiscoIIErik]

Been trying to post the pics, dweb is effed up and wont let me. I can email them to anyone that needs references.

 

[seventyfive]

erik, remember to get some good mold killer spray in there. the best way to get water out, believe it or not, is to lay numerous layers of terry cloth in there....after a couple of days it will draw most of the moisture out of there.

 

[seventyfive]

Post pics if you can. That's good info.

for some reason the a pillars are a problem wit the lr3's. the harness' run under the sill covers and the mfu's are in the passenger side kick panel area, under the glove comp't. sorta like the d2's problems with the splices in the wiring harness'. for some reason LR put the splice's in the bottom of the wiring harness' causing all kinds of problems. the d2's alarm system will go bananas because of wire corrosion.

volkswagen had a similar issue with convenience modules on the b5 passats, water gets in and then when you pull the carpet up, there are wires with green insulation, from the inside out. wreaks havoc and the dealer will charge out the wazoo.

 

[Pierce]

It was a series of red wires. One coming from the rear, splicing together with two that were running from the front. Looked like a factory job. It was bleeding green corrosion out of both ends of the shrink tube, and it looked to almost be burnt up inside.

Four days later in still running strong. (as strong as a Rover can run)

I know this is my first post and this is an old thread but I wanted to say thanks for this post over all the others!! Finally got to the bottom of fault code lights with this one. I don't know how many times I have been in that wiring harness but never saw these red wires spliced. Sure enough corroded out and now fixed and no more lights.

 

[paxton]

I know this is my first post and this is an old thread but I wanted to say thanks for this post over all the others!! Finally got to the bottom of fault code lights with this one. I don't know how many times I have been in that wiring harness but never saw these red wires spliced. Sure enough corroded out and now fixed and no more lights.

What are the specifics on your truck (that is, year)?

 

[Pierce]

The truck is an 05 se everything but navigation. 112000 miles. And it's silver. Lol

Second rover for me. First was a disco 2 that died at 160000. This lr3 is its replacement.

 

[discostew]

I know this is my first post and this is an old thread but I wanted to say thanks for this post over all the others!! Finally got to the bottom of fault code lights with this one. I don't know how many times I have been in that wiring harness but never saw these red wires spliced. Sure enough corroded out and now fixed and no more lights.

some of the splices are easy to find . The red one is a little harder to find for me . I start digging in the harness right where it curves to go toward the rear of the truck ( it runs downward out of the fuse box (CJB) then meets the floor and runs horizontally) start looking there . But that one seems to move around a little bit . I think it depends on how good the dope is that Nigel is smoking when he built that truck .

 

[paxton]

In my 2005 with HD, I had this happen a couple of times. Once, the fix was to update software. The second time, they had to replace the rear end.

No splicing involved, but it cost a lot more. It was all under warranty, so at the time I didn't care.

 

[discostew]

In my 2005 with HD, I had this happen a couple of times. Once, the fix was to update software. The second time, they had to replace the rear end.

No splicing involved, but it cost a lot more. It was all under warranty, so at the time I didn't care.

Do you mean the rear diff motor ? Or was it really the whole rear drive axle ?