Transmission leaking badly - options...

[bradartigue]

Although shifting and running well my transmission is leaking badly; when running it drips out fluid from the bell housing at an alarming rate. I'm no longer driving it as I don't want to damage the transmission itself. Given the quotes to R&R with a used, rebuilt unit range about $3,000 - $4,000 and I can buy a new used Discovery for about $2,000 I'm contemplating options. I'm worried about the "while we're in there" factor when removing all the stuff required for the transmission removal escalating the price into the $4,000 - $5,000 range. Atlanta shops seem to all be saying that it isn't ever as simple as a leaking seal on the front, citing the fiex plate, vibration, etc., causing seals to fail and they will again.

I could buy a used, same model, etc., with a good engine and gearbox for about $2,000 - $3,000, transfer all my stuff over to it, and essentially build what I have in a used truck. I could concurrently build my existing truck using the parts from the new one and donate the old one as a junker, or part it out.

I could fix it for a cost roughly 2/3 of what it is worth

I could donate it as is or part it out

Reading about these transmissions I simply don't have a shop setup to do the R&R myself. Shame really, this Discovery is in wonderful shape...except of course for the transmission.

Thoughts?

 

[luckyjoe]

Can you do the work yourself? If so, call Will Tillery for a quote on a used ZF and anything else you may need. Going any further depends on the condition of your D2 compared to the unknown D2's you mention. Sometimes it's better to stick with a something you know...

 

[bradartigue]

It would be difficult I think...from what I'm reading the lack of a lift seriously impairs the ability to get these heavy bastards out of there. However, I do also need to remove the exhaust system to fix it, so perhaps I'm part of the way there already?

 

[bradartigue]

Also a local mechanic made mention that I would have a problem with a used one because the computer isn’t programmed to match the truck VIN, so it won’t work? I’ve never heard this before.

 

[pdxrovermech]

buy a good used tranny and pay a shop a days labor to swap it in. should only cost $1500-2k total. These trannys are pretty solid and i wouldnt be scared of just going the used route. Also there is no computer BS.

 

[logan_gibson]

It would be difficult I think...from what I'm reading the lack of a lift seriously impairs the ability to get these heavy bastards out of there. However, I do also need to remove the exhaust system to fix it, so perhaps I'm part of the way there already?

A lift isn't needed, I've dropped 3 out in my driveway using a floor jack and jack stands/wood cribbing.

Yes, once you have the y-pipe out of the way, just remove that tcase and then the transmission.

 

[bradartigue]

Will is going to hook me up with a good used unit. I’m convincing myself to do it myself. It’s not my primary vehicle so it can be done over a week or so in the garage. I can also solve my exhaust issues.

 

[luckyjoe]

Good decision. BTDT. Blocked my D1 on 8-inches of cribbing beneath the wheels and was able to slide the ZF and T-case out. I put them back in one at a time. Consider other ancillaries while you’re doing this, Like rear main seal, oil & trans cooler lines, new trans filter, etc.

 

[eburrows]

bradartigue, I applaud your spirit, and I'm sure you can do it, but it's a PITA. I just pulled my t-case and transmission for the first time as well (partially to replace the same seal), and while it's doable... ugh.

Biggest pain is getting the t-case on and off without smashing the drive shaft too badly. I made the LRT-99-010 jack adapter plate, as well as some screw-in guide pins (ala LRT-41-009), but because the drive shaft is about 6" long, and my driveway was not absolutely parallel with the t-case, it took a lot of jiggling, jacking, and swearing.

Getting the transmission unmounted isn't too technically hard, but a lot of work. Some of the bell housing bolts are tough to get to unless you drop the rear side quite a bit, and you have to take the intake manifold and coil packs off to get to the top bolts. Luckily there's no jiggling necessary as the flex plate un-bolts and it just drops right down. To get the oil cooler line off, I found it helped to cut a section out of the box end of a stubby 19mm wrench.

I also long-ago drilled out the rivets holding in the transmission access panel on top of the transmission tunnel. Having direct access to the top makes removing all the wiring much easier.

There have been a couple of posts here recently regarding getting the torque converter and flex plate setup correctly during re-assembly. Take pictures, make sure the flex plate is underneath it's big washer, and make sure the torque converter is seated fully down, at the same depth from the bell mouth as when you disassembled it.

 

[bradartigue]

Thanks for the advice. Will is sending me a good transmission with the torque converter in the right position and locked that way, which should eliminate the issues you mention in the bottom of the post.

When you say drive shaft are you referring to the shaft between the transfer case and transmission?

 

[eburrows]

Yes, that shaft extends 5-6 inches from the end of the transmission. It's got a little give to it, but you don't want the t-case (~60lbs dry) hanging on it.

 

[rover4x4]

FWIW you can remove that output "spud" shaft from the transmission insitu. You will have to remove the inspection plate cover on the LT230 and remove the input gear which will allow you to access the ZF output/tail/spud shaft. This made installation of the LT230 much easier for me.


I am 99% sure I did this when I installed the LT230 in my RRC and made things easier, its been a really long time ago, YMMV...