Transmission Removal

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
What's the easiest way to pull the auto trans from a D1?

I would rather not yank the entire engine if not necessary and there's an easier way. Its not that I can't (I have an engine hoist), I just have a place to keep it once out, and I already have two engine's in my small garage.
I do have a trans lift jack from Harbor Freight and the adapter plate for the TC.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,725
1,022
Northern Illinois
I think it's easiest to pull them together. I think I could find a basic blueprint of that fixture. The fixture itself costs $400. Pretty sure I got one of the last ones.
 

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fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
I have the wedge tool to bolt to the TC, but not that black thing under the trans in your pic. I have access to a porta-power, so good there.
Is it just a matter of unbolting the bell housing from the engine and dropping the TC/Trans down?
 

Harv

Well-known member
I just removed one from a parts P38, but should be very similar. The one caution I followed is that the torque converter must stay with the transmission. As you pull the trans aft, just use something in the lower hole of the bell housing to keep it going with the trans.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
I just removed one from a parts P38, but should be very similar. The one caution I followed is that the torque converter must stay with the transmission. As you pull the trans aft, just use something in the lower hole of the bell housing to keep it going with the trans.
Interesting you mention that.... I dropped the trans from a 95 D1 I had. The torque converter fell out separately and a bunch of fluid came out. Is it bad if that happens? To the point where it could not be reused?
 

luckyjoe

Well-known member
Oct 10, 2004
462
129
New Jersey USA
I pulled my t-case/ZF as one unit, 96 D1. I used a borrowed motorcycle jack and needed about 2-feet of sill clearance to slide them out (accomplished with 4x6 wood cribbing). I pulled the cooling fan, put a few layers of cardboard between the engine and radiator (just to be safe), and had wood blocks to support the oil pan (keep the engine from shifting). I reinstalled them one at a time, ZF first, then t-case.

On reassembly, I stood the ZF bell housing up so I could get the TC set, then I stuffed rags into the bell housing to hold the TC in position. Not sure about fluid in the TC leaking out, but it should refill fine when you add ATF when you’re done, with a handful of fluid level checks.
 

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,650
246
I put a porta power between the frame rails and spread them just enough to slide the cross member out from between the rails. That's the way I was shown to do it, pretty sure that was standard issue dealership shit back in the '90s
We hit them angrily with hammers until they drop out in shame.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,725
1,022
Northern Illinois
Interesting you mention that.... I dropped the trans from a 95 D1 I had. The torque converter fell out separately and a bunch of fluid came out. Is it bad if that happens? To the point where it could not be reused?
[/QUOTE
Interesting you mention that.... I dropped the trans from a 95 D1 I had. The torque converter fell out separately and a bunch of fluid came out. Is it bad if that happens? To the point where it could not be reused?

No it's fine. Just get it all the way in. 3 times it will fall further into the pump
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,725
1,022
Northern Illinois
We hit them angrily with hammers until they drop out in shame.
I think that's about the only way to do a P38. I just bought a cheap porta power and just keep the right length adapters for this job. Try it if you have one. So much easier than swinging that hammer. It will fall out and hit you in the face if you don't keep your hand on it.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,725
1,022
Northern Illinois
I have no idea what's going on with that post.
The torque converter should be fine as long as it didn't fall like 3 feet to the floor. Just make sure it falls into the pump 3 times. You can tell when they aren't back in the trans all the way on reassembly. People fuck them up because they blast bell housing bolts tight when they should have noticed it's the converter keeping the bell housing from going together. Once I think any auto trans is installed on the bell housing I check to see if the torque converter is not in a bind.
 

best4x4

Well-known member
Mar 1, 2015
595
72
Beaumont, TX
I've done it both ways (TC still attached to the Transmission) & (TC removed from the Transmission). It really just depends on where you're doing it like your driveway/garage or a shop. At home I found it easier to remove the TC first, then the transmission. While at a shop with a lift, and more equipment it was easier as one unit.

The Torque Converter will go back in and as mentioned above you will know when it goes in properly. It will drop down further and basically lock into place. When it's not aligned properly it sits up further.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
So the transmission is out, but the torque converter didn't come with it. In fact, it doesn't seem to want to budge at all. Is there a trick to getting it off?
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
I did now. ;)
This 96 Auto is different than the Auto I pulled previously from my 95. The torque converter and flywheel are totally different.
 

Chuckwagon976

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2013
142
7
Ft. Worth, Texas
I have the wedge tool to bolt to the TC, but not that black thing under the trans in your pic. I have access to a porta-power, so good there.
Is it just a matter of unbolting the bell housing from the engine and dropping the TC/Trans down?

Where did you get the wedge tool for the TC?